The DOI matches its Crossref record; 18 of the 18 references it cites were found in a registry or an index.
Fashion, its Sacrifice Zone, and Sustainability
Abstract
This article proposes a revision to the customary framework of sustainability that is being used by dress scholars, environmental activists and policy makers, so that it includes the putative “non-fashion” clothing traditions of the world. Why, until now, the traditions of the Other have been systematically undervalued and obscured is explained from a decolonial perspective. They constitute a “sacrifice zone” of fashion, the emergence of which is connected to the ethnocentrism embedded in the fashion system and fashion scholarship. This failing is a legacy of the colonial era that has been insufficiently addressed but rather obscured by layers of theory and practice. Only by recognizing and correcting systemic ethnic bias, and thereby eliminating the sacrifice zone of fashion, can the fashion industry achieve sustainability. The article concludes with a call for a radical re-writing of fashion history.
Overview
Integrity signals
Registry
Cites
Statistics
Verification
Claims the paper makes
Claims other papers make about this one
Each is checked against this paper’s own text: does it say what the citing paper says it does?
In the citing paper
“This classification is a direct weaponization against Indigenous epistemologies, ontologies, bodies, and lands, in which Niessen (2020) has theorized as fashion sacrifice zones:”
From Indigenous Fashion: A Genealogy of Material Brilliance (2025) · cites this paper as Niessen, 2020
In the citing paper
“Niessen (2020) reminds us how German sociologist and social philosopher, Georg Simmel,”
From Indigenous Fashion: A Genealogy of Material Brilliance (2025) · cites this paper as Niessen, 2020
In the citing paper
“I find comfort in Niessen's (2020) statement that non-fashion is a symptom of colonial thought.”
From Indigenous Fashion: A Genealogy of Material Brilliance (2025) · cites this paper as Niessen, 2020
In the citing paper
“dress traditions and their makers associated with fashion's Other half, that are destroyed for and by the expansion of industrial fashion”
From Indigenous Fashion: A Genealogy of Material Brilliance (2025) · cites this paper as Niessen, 2020
Citations
Cites
Europe and the People without History
Gran, P., & Wolf, E. R. (1984) · The History Teacher · doi:10.2307/493157 · Cited by 3,777
Europe and the People Without History
Weil, J. (1985) · Anthropology of Work Review · doi:10.1525/awr.1985.6.3.38.1 · Cited by 555
Re-orienting fashion : the globalization of Asian dress
Niessen, S. A., Leshkowich, A. M., & Jones, C. (2003) · Cited by 162
Self-citation(1995) · Berg eBooks · doi:10.2752/9781847881342 · Cited by 137
Lévi‐Strauss, C. (1952) · UNESCO eBooks · Cited by 123
Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History
Slade, T. (2009) · Cited by 86
Welters, L., & Lillethun, A. (2017) · Bloomsbury Publishing Plc eBooks · doi:10.5040/9781474253666 · Cited by 68
The Fashion history reader: global perspectives
(2010) · Choice Reviews Online · doi:10.5860/choice.48-2226 · Cited by 51
Fashion History: A Global View
Welters, L., & Lillethun, A. (2018) · Cited by 50
Welters, L., & Lillethun, A. (2011) · Cited by 41
Research works printed but not linked: 7
- Baizerman Suzanne, 1996, The Visible Self: Global Perspectives on Dress, 97
- Davis Wade., 2009, The Wayfinders: Why Ancient Wisdom Matters in the Modern World
- Niessen Sandra A., 2003, Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, 243
- Pye Elwood A., 1988, Artisans in Economic Development. IDRC Series 262.
- Simmel Georg., 1905, Philosophie Der Mode
- Skov Lise., 2003, Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, 215
- Teunissen José., 2005, Global Fashion Local Tradition: Over de Globalisering Van de Mode, 8
Cited by
Sorted by citations
Castoff from the West, pearls in Kantamanto? A critique of second‐hand clothes trade
Manieson, L. A., & Ferrero‐Regis, T. (2022) · Journal of Industrial Ecology · doi:10.1111/jiec.13238 · Cited by 70
Wang, M., Murphy, R., & Christie, I. (2025) · Sustainability · doi:10.3390/su17020631 · Cited by 32
Britain’s ‘Dark Factories’: Specters of Racial Capitalism Today
Sullivan, A. (2022) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2022.2046861 · Cited by 29
Defining defashion: A manifesto for degrowth
Niessen, S. (2022) · International Journal of Fashion Studies · doi:10.1386/infs_00082_7 · Cited by 20
Self-citationNew Fashion Identity and the State in China: A Decolonial Interpretation
Fu, C. (2023) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2023.2166205 · Cited by 20
Encino-Muñoz, A. G., & Yılan, G. (2025) · Journal of Cleaner Production · doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2025.144909 · Cited by 19
Thind, R., & Yakavenka, H. (2023) · The International Journal of Management Education · doi:10.1016/j.ijme.2023.100870 · Cited by 18
The ‘Wellbeing Wardrobe’ as a tool to promote just transitions in the fashion and textile industry
Pugh, R., Brydges, T., Sharpe, S. A., Lavanga, M., & Retamal, M. (2024) · Contemporary Social Science · doi:10.1080/21582041.2024.2341143 · Cited by 17
Relocating sustainable fashion: intercultural reciprocity in ‘more than local’ fashion-making
Khan, R. (2021) · Continuum · doi:10.1080/10304312.2021.1993570 · Cited by 15
Geographies of Fashion and Style: Setting the Scene
Patchett, M. M., & Williams, N. (2021) · GeoHumanities · doi:10.1080/2373566x.2021.1925138 · Cited by 13
Odabaşı, S., von Busch, O., Moon, C., Sansone, L., & Rissanen, T. (2022) · Fashion Practice · doi:10.1080/17569370.2022.2133183 · Cited by 13
Sustainability and the Fashion Media: Micro-Utopia, Social Dreaming and Hope in the Margins
Laing, M. (2024) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2024.2339937 · Cited by 10
A Systematic Framework for Evaluating Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industry
Roh, E. K. (2025) · Sustainability · doi:10.3390/su18010131 · Cited by 7
Moda e Decolonialidade: Colonialismo, vestuário e binarismo
Santos, H. H. D. O., & Medrado, M. (2023) · Revista TOMO · doi:10.21669/tomo.v42i.17545 · Cited by 7
Fashionable altruism: the marketing of fashion-based social enterprise
Hewitt, J., Parker, L., McQuilten, G., & Bigolin, R. (2024) · Social enterprise journal · doi:10.1108/sej-03-2024-0046 · Cited by 6
A New Luxury: Deconstructing Fashion’s Colonial Episteme
Elhichou, M. (2021) · Luxury · doi:10.1080/20511817.2021.2030921 · Cited by 6
Re-thinking do-it-yourself: An ontological approach to sustainability in fashion design praxis
de Waal, D., & Smal, D. (2024) · DIY Alternative Cultures & Society · doi:10.1177/27538702241238775 · Cited by 5
Diaspora weavers: Collective memory and identity of Pagatan Weaving South Kalimantan
Hidayah, S., Saptandari, P., & Arimbi, D. A. (2024) · Jurnal Sosiologi Dialektika · doi:10.20473/jsd.v19i2.2024.153-166 · Cited by 5
Moda sostenible: una ilusión que se desvanece
Gardetti, M. Á. (2023) · Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseño y Comunicación · doi:10.18682/cdc.vi207.10721 · Cited by 5
Pugh, R. (2025) · Tijdschrift voor Economische en Sociale Geografie · doi:10.1111/tesg.70049 · Cited by 4
Falcone, P. M., Yılan, G., & Morone, P. (2022) · Industrial ecology and environmental management · doi:10.1007/978-3-031-04725-1_4 · Cited by 4
Communicating sustainability: the Iberian challenge for authorial fashion brands
Dourado, P., Rodríguez, C. L., & Fernández, E. O. (2024) · Corporate Communications An International Journal · doi:10.1108/ccij-12-2023-0179 · Cited by 4
Mending Matters: Cultures and Contexts of Clothing Repair
Aliabieva, L., Gurova, О., & Kucher, I. (2025) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2025.2574160 · Cited by 4
Repair and Care: Reframing Fashion Sustainability Pedagogy
Idacavage, S., & Peters, L. D. (2025) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2025.2574765 · Cited by 3
Decolonial fashion ethnography: ‘Before Yesterday’ method
Medrado, M. (2023) · International Journal of Fashion Studies · doi:10.1386/infs_00095_1 · Cited by 3
I ASKED CHATGPT WHAT THE NEXT TREND WOULD BE
Schon, V. R., & Colombi, C. (2024) · Fashion Highlight · doi:10.36253/fh-2501 · Cited by 3
Pervez, W. (2022) · UNSWorks (University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia) · doi:10.26190/unsworks/24329 · Cited by 3
Kentros, I. J., Bonilla, L. C. R., & Macías, E. B. (2023) · Sustainable textiles · doi:10.1007/978-981-99-0349-8_15 · Cited by 2
Usability and User Experience on Secondhand Fashion Digital Platforms: A Comparative Study
Dourado, P. (2023) · Observatorio (OBS*) · doi:10.15847/obsobs17320232154 · Cited by 2
Fashioning the Posthuman Body in the Anthropocene: Alexander McQueen’s The Horn of Plenty
Egea-Castañeda, S. (2025) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2025.2506861 · Cited by 2
Klepp, I. G., Haugen, B. S. H., Ulväng, M., Rasmussen, P., & Haugsrud, I. (2024) · Clothing Cultures · doi:10.1386/cc_00088_1 · Cited by 2
Zelinska, N., & Astaptseva, K. A. (2025) · Сторінки історії · doi:10.20535/2307-5244.61.2025.347312 · Cited by 2
Passing the Thread: The Intergenerational Transmission of Textile Practices
Andò, R., & Campagna, L. (2026) · Societies · doi:10.3390/soc16040119 · Cited by 2
Pouco Instagramável: A Sustentabilidade na Comunicação Digital da Moda Autoral Portuguesa
Dourado, P. (2024) · Comunicação e Sociedade · doi:10.17231/comsoc.45(2024).5370 · Cited by 2
Clothescapes of Refugeehood: Emma Lee’s The Significance of a Dress (2020)
Pereira-Ares, N. (2024) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2024.2390723 · Cited by 2
Ethno-racial capitalism in contemporary fashion
Loscialpo, F. (2023) · Routledge eBooks · doi:10.4324/9781003219675-2 · Cited by 1
Sitinjak, I., & Malau, A. R. (2023) · SULTANIST Jurnal Manajemen dan Keuangan · doi:10.37403/sultanist.v11i2.509 · Cited by 1
Sustainability, nationality and engagement: a study of designer fashion brands
Dourado, P., Rodríguez, C. L., & Polaino, R. C. (2025) · Management Decision · doi:10.1108/md-04-2024-0935 · Cited by 1
SustainTima: a task-oriented text-based conversational AI agent for sustainable fast fashion brands
Campuzano, E. P., & Chakraborty, S. (2025) · International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education · doi:10.1080/17543266.2025.2584821 · Cited by 1
From Your Size to My Size: Fashioning Agency Among Kenyan Consumers
Atchulo, F. M. M. (2025) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2025.2588073 · Cited by 1
Posthuman Ethics of Care for Fashion
Smelik, A. (2026) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2026.2677521 · Cited by 1
Sustainable Luxury in South Africa: The Twyg Platform
Picarelli, E. (2021) · Zonemoda journal · doi:10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13101 · Cited by 1
Textile Autobiographies: Crafting shifting identities with refugee communities
Mazzarella, F., & Mirza, S. (2023) · International Association of Societies of Design Research Congress (IASDR) · doi:10.21606/iasdr.2023.414 · Cited by 1
Caminhos decoloniais nos estudos de moda: raça, gênero e um conceito em revisão
Epaminondas, N. R. (2024) · dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda · doi:10.26563/dobras.i40.1795 · Cited by 1
Sark, K. (2024) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2024.2338578 · Cited by 1
Indigenous Fashion: A Genealogy of Material Brilliance
Woods, J. (2025) · Fashion Studies · doi:10.38055/ufn050101
FASHION STUDIES AND QUALITATIVE RESEARCH
Odabaşı, S. (2022) · Pamukkale University Journal of Social Sciences Institute · doi:10.30794/pausbed.1115335
Moda, subalternidad y ecofeminismo en clave socio-literaria: Brick Lane, de Monica Ali
Pereira-Ares, N. (2023) · Atlánticas Revista Internacional de Estudios Feministas · doi:10.17979/arief.2023.8.1.8711
The Fashion Crossroad Method: Political and Epistemological Practices
Costa, C. A., Casarin, C., Júnior, J. D. R., Santos, H. H. D. O., & Medrado, M. (2023) · Sustainable textiles · doi:10.1007/978-981-99-0349-8_18
A moda e as encruzilhadas: um ensaio teórico-metodológico
Costa, C. A., Casarin, C., Santos, H. H. D. O., Júnior, J. D. R., & Medrado, M. (2023) · Diálogo com a Economia Criativa · doi:10.22398/2525-2828.8229-21
Fashion and Global Sustainability
Norris, L. (2023) · Cambridge University Press eBooks · doi:10.1017/9781108862349.024
Fast Fashion: The Trendiest Threat to SustainabilityPreprint
Frick, E. (2023) · doi:10.58445/rars.432
Ucrania como “zona sacrificada” en el derecho internacional
Salgado, E. E. G. (2022) · Revista Cálamo · doi:10.61243/calamo.17.87
Fashion (hi)stories: Poetics and politics
Goeller, D. (2023) · Clothing Cultures · doi:10.1386/cc_00075_1
Fashion’s Relation to the “Geo”: From Global Impacts to Earthly Practices
Patchett, M. M., & Williams, N. (2025) · Annals of the American Association of Geographers · doi:10.1080/24694452.2025.2481134
Kramer, E. (2025) · Fashion Style & Popular Culture · doi:10.1386/fspc_00333_1
Niessen, S. A. (2025) · Routledge eBooks · doi:10.4324/9781032650159-21
Self-citationNegative Aesthetics and the de-beautification of Fashion
Ioannou, D. (2025) · Fashion Highlight · doi:10.36253/fh-3173
Contrasting Hierarchical and Decentralised System Analogies to Revalue Prosperity
Nel, L., Smal, D., & Munro, A. (2025) · Fashion Highlight · doi:10.36253/fh-3140
Types of Resistance Strategies Used in Decolonizing Fashion
Jung, J. (2025) · Fashion & Textile Research Journal · doi:10.5805/sfti.2025.27.3.206
Perception Walks: Using Clothing as a Portal and Reflection as a Guide
Gilbertson, Z., Devisscher, N., & Žemčugovaitė, R. (2025) · Science for sustainable societies · doi:10.1007/978-981-96-9029-9_39
Frausin, V. (2025) · Lancaster EPrints (Lancaster University) · doi:10.17635/lancaster/thesis/2826
Analisi dell’eurocentrismo nella moda. Tra appropriazione, stereotipi e nuove progettualità
Piancazzo, F. (2024) · AMS Dottorato Institutional Doctoral Theses Repository (University of Bologna) · doi:10.48676/unibo/amsdottorato/11615
Les ecologies de la moda. Una investigació per a la construcció de sistemes del vestit pluriversals
Mallart Lacruz, C. (2024) · Tesis Doctorals en Xarxa (Consorci de Serveis Universitaris de Catalunya)
Falk, T., & Jalkell, M. (2024) · KTH Publication Database DiVA (KTH Royal Institute of Technology)
Colonial feelings: An affective encounter with a Toba Batak ulos textile
van Tienhoven, M. A. (2025) · International Journal of Fashion Studies · doi:10.1386/infs_00138_1
Cripping Masculinity: Designing Crip Utopias
Ng, E. (2025) · Zonemoda journal · doi:10.60923/issn.2611-0563/22973
Kipöz, Ş. (2025) · De Gruyter eBooks · doi:10.1515/9783111384771-012
Boughlala, A. (2025) · Fashion Highlight · doi:10.36253/fh-3550
Baey, S.-C. (2026) · International Journal of Cultural Policy · doi:10.1080/10286632.2026.2695139
Degrowth as a precondition for circularity in fashion: a stakeholder-based analysis
Jones, I. (2026) · Academia Environmental Sciences and Sustainability · doi:10.20935/acadenvsci8390
Bhardwaj, S., & Kori, V. (2026) · TEXTILE · doi:10.1080/14759756.2026.2684987
ファッション企業における持続可能性と収益性の両立 : パタゴニア社の研究をケースとして
李, 晨. (2024) · Institutional Repositories DataBase (IRDB)
Imagens da Branquitude – A presença da ausência
MILLECCO, M. (2026) · Fashion Theory · doi:10.1080/1362704x.2026.2724866
Sigaard, A. S. (2026) · Consumption and Society · doi:10.1332/27528499y2026d000000098
Upcycling fast fashion waste through design
Debrah, R. D., Badu, A. K., Moro, I., Asinyo, B. K., & Ruvo, M. D. (2026) · Routledge eBooks · doi:10.4324/9781003676003-12
Sung, K. K., Sinha, P., Hur, E., & Moalosi, R. (2026) · Routledge eBooks · doi:10.4324/9781003676003
Coéllar, A. E. D., & Gil, F. B. (2026) · Francisco Baptista Gil eBooks · doi:10.23882/siayd.26.31-5
Metadata
- Authors
- Niessen, S.
- Corresponding author
- Niessen, Sandra
- ORCID
- Niessen, Sandra
- Venue
- Fashion Theory
- Publisher
- Informa UK Limited
- Published
- 2020-08-07
- Volume
- 24
- Issue
- 6
- Pages
- 859-877
- ISSN
- 1362-704X (ISSN-L)
- 1751-7419
- OpenAlex
- W3048109782
- Semantic Scholar
- 480b56e7a76ceda359bfa3c9338b019663818dbf
- Cited by
- 62
- References
- 17
- Citations by year
- 2026: 6 · 2025: 17 · 2024: 12 · 2023: 16 · 2022: 7 · 2021: 4
- FWCI
- 66.47
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Fashion Theory (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Fashion and Cultural Textiles
- Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Cultural and Historical Studies
- Social Sciences › Anthropology › Decolonial Thought and Epistemologies
- Keywords
- sustainable fashion, sacrifice zones, decoloniality, ethnocentrism, colonial legacy, fashion history
About these checks
Registry, retraction, Cites and statistics results are computed, not judged, with one exception: a printed reference that no index lists is read once by a model before it counts as a citation error. Claims are extracted by a model and kept only when their quote appears verbatim in the text; each cited source is then checked, with a model’s help, for whether it says what the claim relies on. Those verdicts can be wrong — read the claim’s quote and the cited source before relying on one.
Statistics and arithmetic are recomputed, not judged.
Confidence bands are shown only for fields calibrated on our annotated test set. None is calibrated yet, so no band is shown.
What counts as a claim ›How we measure confidence ›How we check this ›
Are you an author, or do you see a problem with this page? Request a review