Surgical Passing: Or Why Michael Jackson's Nose Makes `us' Uneasy
Abstract
Since the emergence of cosmetic surgery at the turn of the 20th century, individuals in the US and Europe have looked to cosmetic surgery not only as a way to enhance their appearance, but also as a way to minimize or eradicate physical signs that - they believe - mark them as `different', that is, other than the dominant, or another, more desirable, `racial' or `ethnic' group. In my article, I raise the question of how such ethnic cosmetic surgery might differ from other types of cosmetic surgery (such as breast augmentations for `enhancing' femininity or face-lifts to eliminate signs of aging) and, more generally, whether ethnic cosmetic surgery raises different normative or ethical issues. After a brief foray into the history of cosmetic surgery and its connections with racial science, I turn to the current practice of ethnic cosmetic surgery, situating it in contemporary political controversies about race and beauty. I draw upon the case of Michael Jackson - arguably the best known recipient of this kind of cosmetic surgery - in order to analyze how cosmetic surgery for people of color or for the `ethnically marginalized' is framed in a discourse of `race' and the consequences this framing has for feminist thinking about embodiment and embodied identity. Finally, I return to the relative ease or unease that cosmetic surgery evokes among its critics.
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This makes the politics of representation more complex as some people of colour seek to sustain its racist and colourist underpinnings.
“This makes the politics of representation more complex as some people of colour seek to sustain its racist and colourist underpinnings (Davis, 2003).”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Davis, 2003
Many people with black forebears who had skin light enough to 'pass' as white left their families and assumed white identities.
“Many people with black forebears who had skin light enough to ' pass ' as white left their families and assumed white identities (Davis, 2003).”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Davis, 2003
Sander Gilman describes cosmetic surgery as a form of 'passing'.
“Sander Gilman describes ' cosmetic surgery as a form of ' passing ' ' (Davis, 2003:77), where a person takes on a new identity to access privileges and status, leaving behind the oppression of their former identity.”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Davis, 2003:77
In US history, the term 'passing' evokes the period when the 'one-drop rule' was enforced, legally designating those with a single drop of black blood or any known black ancestry as black.
“In US history, the term ' passing ' evokes the period when the ' one-drop rule ' was enforced (Davis, 2003), legally designating those with a single drop of black blood or any known black ancestry as black (Roth, 2005).”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Davis, 2003
Cites
Mama, A. (2002) · Routledge · doi:10.4324/9780203405499 · Cited by 375 · cited 2× · see citing works
“Racist (and class-based) norms of appearance that equate feminine beauty with long flowing hair, light skin and aquiline features were criticized as part of a ‘color caste system’ that historically defines black women with kinky hair and African features as ‘ugly’ or undesirable (Russell et al., 1992; hooks, 1994; Mam…”
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Race, beauty, and the tangled knot of a guilty pleasure
Craig, M. L. (2006) · Feminist Theory · doi:10.1177/1464700106064414 · Cited by 200 · see citing works
Colourism and the Politics of Beauty
Phoenix, A. (2014) · Feminist Review · doi:10.1057/fr.2014.18 · Cited by 48 · see citing works
- Authors
- Davis, K.
- Affiliations
- Utrecht University (NL)
- Corresponding author
- Davis, Kathy
- ORCID
- Davis, Kathy
- Venue
- Feminist Theory
- Publisher
- SAGE Publications
- Published
- 2003-04
- Volume
- 4
- Issue
- 1
- Pages
- 73-92
- ISSN
- 1464-7001 (ISSN-L)
- 1741-2773
- OpenAlex
- W2131252426
- Cited by
- 44
- References
- 1
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2025: 2 · 2022: 2 · 2021: 3 · 2020: 2 · 2019: 2 · 2018: 4 · 2017: 4 · 2016: 2 · 2015: 1 · 2014: 4 · 2013: 1 · 2012: 3
- FWCI
- 1.79
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Feminist Theory (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Social Sciences › Gender Studies › Feminist Theory and Gender Studies
- Social Sciences › Psychology › Clinical Psychology › Body Image and Dysmorphia Studies
- Social Sciences › Sociology and Political Science › Feminism, Gender, and Intersectionality
- Keywords
- cosmetic surgery, race and beauty, scientific racism, history of cosmetic surgery, Michael Jackson, embodiment, embodied identity, ethics of cosmetic surgery, racialized bodies, ethnic marginalization
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