Cited by 43Ancient Mediterranean Archaeology and HistoryCultural Heritage Materials AnalysisClassical Antiquity Studies

The DOI matches its Crossref record, with a small difference in title or year.

Colouring the Mediterranean: Production and Consumption of Purple-dyed Textiles in Pre-Roman Times

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Marín-Aguilera, Beatriz, Iacono, Francesco, Gleba, Margarita·2019·Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology

Abstract

Purple textiles were highly valued in the ancient Mediterranean as a symbol of prestige, social status and power. Despite the numerous publications focused on the production and spread of purple dye technologies, the discussion regarding this particular dye has often been compartmentalised regionally (eastern or western Mediterranean) and chronologically (second or first millennium bc). The aim of this paper is threefold: (1) to propose a full chaîne opératoire for the production of shellfish-purple-dyed textiles; (2) to synthesise the archaeological evidence on production and consumption of such textiles in the entire Mediterranean before the Romans; and (3) to discuss the social implications of the production and consumption of these textiles, to gain a better understanding of their economic and social significance. Open access: Attribution—Non Commercial—NoDerivs / CC BY-NC-ND

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Crossref · 10.1558/jma.38080

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  • The exact shade of true purple depends on parameters such as chemical precursors of each snail species, the dyeing process, and oxygen/light exposure.

    “the exact shade depends on different parameters, such as the chemical precursors compounds of each snail species, the dyeing process, and the levels of oxygen and light that the dye is exposed to [15].”
  • The dyeing process using murex was a sophisticated, multi-stage process more complex than plant-based dyeing.

    “The dyeing process using murex was a sophisticated, multi-stage process [15]. It was more complex than dyeing techniques based on plants”
  • The earliest true purple textiles were found in Syria and are dated to the early second millennium BCE, including finds from Chagar Bazar and Qatna.

    “The earliest true purple textiles were found in Syria and are dated to the early second millennium BCE. These include finds from a burial at Chagar Bazar (18th–16th centuries BCE, [15]), and samples preserved in gypsum found in Qatna’s palace [62].”
  • In the Eastern Mediterranean, the largest concentration of Iron Age sites with evidence of purple industry is located along the northern coast of the Southern Levant.

    “In the Eastern Mediterranean, the largest concentration of Iron Age sites with evidence of purple industry is located along the northern coast of the Southern Levant [15]”
  • In most cases these textiles are very delicate and represent a high quality of weaving.

    “In most cases these textiles are very delicate and represent a high quality of weaving [15].”

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Metadata

Authors
Marín-Aguilera, B., Iacono, F., & Gleba, M.
Affiliations
University of Cambridge (GB)
Venue
Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology
Published
2019-02-04
Volume
31
Issue
2
Pages
127-154
ISSN
  • 0952-7648 (ISSN-L)
  • 1743-1700
OpenAlex
W2911352367
Cited by
43
References
0
Citations by year
2026: 4 · 2025: 18 · 2024: 5 · 2023: 5 · 2022: 1 · 2021: 4 · 2020: 4 · 2019: 2
FWCI
19.89
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
cc-by-nc-nd
Locations
  • Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc-nd)
  • Archivio istituzionale della ricerca (Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna) (submittedVersion, cc-by-nc-nd)
  • Padua Research Archive (University of Padova) (submittedVersion, cc-by-nc-nd)
Funders
European Commission
Topics
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Archeology (arts and humanities) › Ancient Mediterranean Archaeology and History
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Archeology (arts and humanities) › Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Classics › Classical Antiquity Studies
Keywords
purple dye, textile dyeing, chaîne opératoire, prestige goods, social status, pre-Roman period

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