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Colouring the Mediterranean: Production and Consumption of Purple-dyed Textiles in Pre-Roman Times
Open accessAbstract
Purple textiles were highly valued in the ancient Mediterranean as a symbol of prestige, social status and power. Despite the numerous publications focused on the production and spread of purple dye technologies, the discussion regarding this particular dye has often been compartmentalised regionally (eastern or western Mediterranean) and chronologically (second or first millennium bc). The aim of this paper is threefold: (1) to propose a full chaîne opératoire for the production of shellfish-purple-dyed textiles; (2) to synthesise the archaeological evidence on production and consumption of such textiles in the entire Mediterranean before the Romans; and (3) to discuss the social implications of the production and consumption of these textiles, to gain a better understanding of their economic and social significance. Open access: Attribution—Non Commercial—NoDerivs / CC BY-NC-ND
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The exact shade of true purple depends on parameters such as chemical precursors of each snail species, the dyeing process, and oxygen/light exposure.
“the exact shade depends on different parameters, such as the chemical precursors compounds of each snail species, the dyeing process, and the levels of oxygen and light that the dye is exposed to [15].”
From Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel) (2021) · cites this paper as [15]
The dyeing process using murex was a sophisticated, multi-stage process more complex than plant-based dyeing.
“The dyeing process using murex was a sophisticated, multi-stage process [15]. It was more complex than dyeing techniques based on plants”
From Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel) (2021) · cites this paper as [15]
The earliest true purple textiles were found in Syria and are dated to the early second millennium BCE, including finds from Chagar Bazar and Qatna.
“The earliest true purple textiles were found in Syria and are dated to the early second millennium BCE. These include finds from a burial at Chagar Bazar (18th–16th centuries BCE, [15]), and samples preserved in gypsum found in Qatna’s palace [62].”
From Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel) (2021) · cites this paper as [15]
In the Eastern Mediterranean, the largest concentration of Iron Age sites with evidence of purple industry is located along the northern coast of the Southern Levant.
“In the Eastern Mediterranean, the largest concentration of Iron Age sites with evidence of purple industry is located along the northern coast of the Southern Levant [15]”
From Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel) (2021) · cites this paper as [15]
In most cases these textiles are very delicate and represent a high quality of weaving.
“In most cases these textiles are very delicate and represent a high quality of weaving [15].”
From Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel) (2021) · cites this paper as [15]
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Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel)
Sukenik, N., Iluz, D., Amar, Z., Varvak, A., Shamir, O., & Ben-Yosef, E. (2021) · PLOS ONE · doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0245897 · Cited by 40
“In the Eastern Mediterranean, the largest concentration of Iron Age sites with evidence of purple industry is located along the northern coast of the Southern Levant [15] (Fig 9).”
BackgroundMethodInfluential
Metadata
- Authors
- Marín-Aguilera, B., Iacono, F., & Gleba, M.
- Affiliations
- University of Cambridge (GB)
- Venue
- Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology
- Publisher
- Equinox Publishing
- Published
- 2019-02-04
- Volume
- 31
- Issue
- 2
- Pages
- 127-154
- ISSN
- 0952-7648 (ISSN-L)
- 1743-1700
- OpenAlex
- W2911352367
- Cited by
- 43
- References
- 0
- Citations by year
- 2026: 4 · 2025: 18 · 2024: 5 · 2023: 5 · 2022: 1 · 2021: 4 · 2020: 4 · 2019: 2
- FWCI
- 19.89
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- hybrid
- doi.org
- Licence
- cc-by-nc-nd
- Locations
- Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc-nd)
- Archivio istituzionale della ricerca (Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna) (submittedVersion, cc-by-nc-nd)
- Padua Research Archive (University of Padova) (submittedVersion, cc-by-nc-nd)
- Funders
- European Commission
- Topics
- Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Archeology (arts and humanities) › Ancient Mediterranean Archaeology and History
- Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Archeology (arts and humanities) › Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis
- Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Classics › Classical Antiquity Studies
- Keywords
- purple dye, textile dyeing, chaîne opératoire, prestige goods, social status, pre-Roman period
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