Retinoids: Active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments
Open accessAbstract
Vitamin A is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects. Vitamin A is in a group of fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Apart from retinol, that group includes structurally related substances with the biological properties of retinol. Since the biological activity of the substances differs, for the purpose of standardization, it is given in retinol equivalents. Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the aging process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity. Retinoid activity is related to high affinity for nuclear receptors: RAR - retinoid acid receptors and RXR - retinoid X receptors.
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Retinoids protect collagen against destruction induced by MMPs and enhance synthesis of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs).
“Retinoids protect collagen against the destruction induced by MMPs, as well as enhancing the synthesis of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs) [32,42].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [32]
Topical retinol improves the dermal extracellular matrix microenvironment (type I collagen, fibronectin, and elastin) and activates ECM-producing cells in aged skin.
“Topical retinol improves the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) microenvironment (type I collagen, fibronectin, and elastin) and activates ECM-producing cells in aged skin [32,38].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [32]
Retinoids influence the function of melanocytes and the distribution of melanin in the skin, and block the transport of melanin to epidermal cells.
“Retinoids influence the function of melanocytes and the distribution of melanin in the skin, as well as blocking the transport of melanin to epidermal cells.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [32]
Topically applied retinoids reduce the discoloration of the skin and its pigmentation by about 60%.
“Topically applied retinoids reduce the discoloration of the skin and its pigmentation by about 60%.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [32]
A decrease in the number of melanocytes is related to the inhibition of melanogenesis.
“A decrease in the number of melanocytes is related to the inhibition of melanogenesis [32].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [32]
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References 31 · Cited by 315
- Authors
- Zasada, M., & Budzisz, E.
- Affiliations
- Medical University of Lodz (PL)
- Corresponding author
- Zasada, Malwina
- Venue
- Advances in Dermatology and Allergology
- Publisher
- Termedia Sp. z.o.o.
- Published
- 2019
- Volume
- 36
- Issue
- 4
- Pages
- 392-397
- ISSN
- 0860-6218 (ISSN-L)
- 1642-395X
- PMC
- PMC6791161
- OpenAlex
- W2980159232
- Cited by
- 315
- References
- 31
- Citations by year
- 2026: 51 · 2025: 67 · 2024: 63 · 2023: 51 · 2022: 41 · 2021: 26 · 2020: 16
- FWCI
- 4.03
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Locations
- Advances in Dermatology and Allergology (publishedVersion)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc-sa)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
- Funders
- Uniwersytet Łódzki (502-34-094, 502-03, 3-066-02)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Molecular Biology › Retinoids in leukemia and cellular processes
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Acne and Rosacea Treatments and Effects
- Keywords
- retinoids, vitamin A, retinol, anti-wrinkle agents, skin aging, keratinocyte proliferation, apoptosis, cell differentiation, transepidermal water loss, collagen degradation, matrix metalloproteinases, retinoid X receptor, nuclear receptors, cosmetic procedures, dermatological treatment
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