Cited by 4Libraries, Manuscripts, and BooksCultural Heritage Materials AnalysisEurasian Exchange Networks

The DOI matches its Crossref record; 24 of the 24 references it cites were found in a registry or an index; none of the 38 sources its claims cite is checked for support yet.

Gilding Textiles and Printing Blocks in Tenth-Century Egypt

Open access
King, Anya H.·2021·Journal of the American Oriental Society

Abstract

The surviving portion of the tenth-century Egyptian Muḥammad b. Aḥmad al-Tamīmī's recently edited Ṯīb al-ʿarūs has several formulas relating to the dying and perfuming of textiles. Some refer to the use of carved molds to impress designs upon textiles. Tamīmī's formulas treat in particular the application of gold leaf and perfumed dye pastes with blocks, but presuppose the technology of using blocks to apply designs to textiles and include a vocabulary of technical terms for the process. This textual evidence provides additional context for surviving early medieval Islamic block-printed gilded textiles. The attestation of the use of blocks to decorate textiles is contemporary with the use of blocks to print Arabic amulet texts, known by the tenth century from extant specimens and some literary evidence.

Overview

Integrity signals

Registry

Crossref · 10.7817/jameroriesoci.140.2.0455

Cites

24 of 24 references verified0 citation errors · 0 not checkable

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Nothing to recompute.

Verification

Claims the paper makes

32 Sources not found · 29 Own interpretation · 6 No full text of the sources · 5 Own result · 5 No basis given · 3 Not checked yet

  • Probably not a substantial claim. 32
  • It may state two separate claims as one. 30
  • The quote only partly states this claim. 4
52 of 52

Citations

Cites

Show all 21 references

Research works printed but not linked: 14

  1. Pfister 1938. See also Eastwood 1982: 292; Handley and Regourd 2009: 145-49, 151 for examples excavated at Quseir al-Qadim. Many are printed with designs that include Arabic inscriptions specifically for a Middle Eastern market, although the blocks are "probably carved by someone with little understanding of Arabic," Handley and Regourd 2009: 149. I have not seen Vogelsang-Eastwood 1989. 6. Barnes 1997. 7. Gittinger 1982: 31-57; Barnes 1997, 1: 52-61, especially p. 61 on the distinctions between Indian and non- Indian block-printed textiles.
  2. Watelin 1925: pl. 7 is an illustration of a textile with roundel design containing animals labeled "Fragment 33. My preferred transliteration; the text's editors have transcribed this as mulabban; see below. 34. Dozy 1927, 2: 515. Ullmann 1970-, 2: 178 renders malban with door-frame, door-post, gate-like frame- work; see ibid., 2: 180 for mulabban.
  3. Perhaps an error for Persian jāmah, "robe"? 36. Fa-ʿalā dhālika in ms. but omitted in the edition. 37. Ibn al-Abbār 1963: 252-53; Bulliet 1987: 436; Schaefer 2006: 24-25.
  4. Ibn Bādīs (2007: 146) mentions the use in burnishing gold leaf of something that the edition gives as ḥamāḥim and Levey (Ibn Bādīs 1962: 38 n. 267) as jumāhun or jumāhum. Perhaps this is an error for khumāhan or khumāhān, a synonym for hematite; see Käs 2010, 1: 559-61. 39. Cennini 1954: 82-83.
  5. A catalog of those identified up to 2006 is in Schaefer 2006. See also Muehlhaeusler 2008; Schaefer 2014. 50. Bosworth 1976, 2: 18, 201; Bulliet 1987. 51
  6. Al-Bīrūnī. 1973. Kitāb al-Ṣ aydana, ed. and trans. H. M. Said. Karachi: Hamdard National Foundation.
  7. Cennini, Cennino d'Andrea. 1954. The Craftsman's Handbook 'Il Libro dell'Arte'. Trans. D. V. Thomp- son Jr. New Haven: Yale Univ. Press, 1933; repr. New York: Dover.
  8. Forbes, R. J. 1964. Studies in Ancient Technology, vol. 4. 2nd ed. Leiden: E.J. Brill.
  9. Handley, F., and A. Regourd. 2009. Textiles with Writing from Quṣeir al-Qadīm: Finds from the South- ampton Excavations 1999-2003. In Connected Hinterlands: Proceedings of Red Sea Project IV, ed. L. Blue et al., 141-53. Oxford: Archaeopress.
  10. Huart, Cl. [J. Sadan]. 1986. Kursī. Encyclopaedia of Islam, 2nd ed., 5: 509a-b. Ibn al-Abbār. 1963. Al-Ḥulla al-siyarāʾ, ed. Ḥ. Muʾnis, vol. 1. Cairo: al-Shirka al-ʿArabiyya li-l-Ṭibāʿa wa-l-Nashr. Ibn Bādīs. 1962. Medieval Arabic Bookmaking and Its Relation to Early Chemistry and Pharmacology, trans. M. Levey. Transactions of the American Philosophical Society New Series 52.4. Philadelphia: American Philosophical Society.
  11. Johnson, K. 2008. Perfumed Textiles. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. http://digi- talcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/104 (accessed July 17, 2019).
  12. Löw, I. 1967. Die Flora der Juden, Vol. 3. Vienna, 1924; repr. Hildesheim: Olms.
  13. Stapf, O. 1907. The Gums Ammoniac of Morocco and the Cyrenaica. Bulletin of Miscellaneous Infor- mation (Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew) 10: 375-88.
  14. Tsien, Tsuen-hsuin. 1985. Science and Civilisation in China, vol. 5: Chemistry and Chemical Technol- ogy: Part 1: Paper and Printing. Cambridge: Cambridge Univ. Press.

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Metadata

Authors
King, A. H.
Affiliations
University of Southern Indiana (US)
Corresponding author
King, Anya H.
Venue
Journal of the American Oriental Society
Published
2021-09-19
Volume
140
Issue
2
ISSN
  • 0003-0279 (ISSN-L)
  • 2169-2289
OpenAlex
W3041706003
Cited by
4
References
21
Citations by year
2024: 1 · 2022: 2 · 2021: 1
FWCI
9.46
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Locations
Journal of the American Oriental Society (publishedVersion)
Topics
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › History › Libraries, Manuscripts, and Books
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Archeology (arts and humanities) › Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › History › Eurasian Exchange Networks
Keywords
block printing, printing blocks, gold leaf, textile dyeing, textile decoration

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