Cited by 2Indigenous Studies in Latin AmericaIndigenous Cultures and HistoryFashion and Cultural Textiles

Material ethnicity: Maya textiles and Guna molas as sources of cultural distinctiveness and intellectual property

Martínez Mauri, Mónica, Celigueta Comerma, Gemma·2025·Latin American and Caribbean Ethnic Studies

Abstract

In this article, we coin the concept of ‘material ethnicity’ when thinking about the centrality of certain elements of material culture in present redefinitions of ethnic boundaries, especially when these elements are misappropriated by outside actors and become subjects of legal regulation. By analyzing the cases of the Guna (also referred to as ‘Gunadule’) molas in Panama and Maya textiles in Guatemala, we aim to understand the role of Indigenous textiles in the fluid construction of ethnic identities. We explore the reasons why molas and Guatemalan textiles have become ethnic identifiers, drawing attention to their importance in the construction of corporeality, framing of gender relations, creation of knowledge, perception of appropriation, and temporality – five symbolic practices linked to the ownership of territory. Finally, we present several of the debates about the intellectual property of these textiles and conclude with some considerations on the significance of materiality for political constitution.

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Crossref · 10.1080/17442222.2024.2393509

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Research works printed but not linked: 25

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Authors
Martínez Mauri, M., & Celigueta Comerma, G.
Affiliations
Department of Social Anthropology, University of Barcelona, Barcelona, Spain
Venue
Latin American and Caribbean Ethnic Studies
Published
2024-08-27
Volume
20
Issue
1
Pages
122-142
ISSN
  • 1744-2222 (ISSN-L)
  • 1744-2230
OpenAlex
W4401927041
Cited by
2
References
65
Citations by year
2026: 2
FWCI
5.86
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
closed
Locations
Latin American and Caribbean Ethnic Studies (publishedVersion)
Funders
  • Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness (CSO2015-62723-ERC)
  • Spanish Ministry of Science, Innovation and Universities
Topics
  • Social Sciences › Cultural Studies › Indigenous Studies in Latin America
  • Social Sciences › Anthropology › Indigenous Cultures and History
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Museology › Fashion and Cultural Textiles
Keywords
Maya textiles, indigenous textiles, ethnic identity, cultural distinctiveness, intellectual property, cultural appropriation, material culture, embodiment, gender relations, territory, temporality, political constitution, Panama, Guatemala

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