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Cited by 12Race, History, and American SocietyAmerican History and CultureMedia, Gender, and Advertising

‘Making Black More Beautiful’: Black Women and the Cosmetics Industry in the Post‐Civil Rights Era

Open access
Baird, Melissa L.·2021·Gender & History
DOI 10.1111/1468-0424.12522
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Abstract

Abstract This article explores how the ‘Black is Beautiful’ movement transformed attitudes towards beauty standards within black communities and how the cosmetics industry tried to capitalise on these shifts in their marketing strategies. It charts how redefined beauty standards generated a proliferation of cosmetics companies and products exclusively for black women, and their success attracted widespread attention from across the industry. However, this article demonstrates that while the cosmetics industry removed certain racialised barriers to mainstream American beauty culture, the commodification of the language and imagery of “Black is Beautiful” in cosmetics advertising often reinforced gendered expectations as well as heightening tensions within black communities in regard to colourism and business ownership.

AI snapshot

Written from the paper’s full text.

TL;DR

This article shows that the ‘Black is Beautiful’ movement briefly expanded US beauty standards and created a wave of cosmetics for Black women, but the industry commodified the slogan in ways that reinforced colorism and gendered expectations. It also argues that white corporations eventually monopolized the ethnic cosmetics market, undermining smaller Black-owned businesses.

Key findings

  • Between 1964 and 1969, more than six new cosmetics brands launched exclusively for Black women; Flori Roberts, established in 1965, became the first such company stocked in department stores two years later.
  • By the mid-1970s, mass-market giants Max Factor, Avon, and Revlon had launched campaigns exclusively for Black skin tones; Avon introduced its ‘Shades of Beauty’ range in 1975, while Revlon’s ‘Polished Ambers’ drew backlash for cultural appropriation.
  • Despite ‘Black is Beautiful’, skin bleaching persisted and was rebranded as ‘fade creams, even tone creams, dark spot correctors’; by 1988 Fashion Fair announced Vantex Skin Bleaching Crème.
  • In 1993 the ethnic cosmetics market grew by fifteen per cent, faster than the ethnic hair-care market, while Black women were estimated to spend about $500 annually on health and beauty aids compared with $180 for white women; Revlon’s president predicted Black-owned beauty businesses would disappear, prompting a boycott and later a $5 million investment in minority banks and a $25,000 NAACP donation.

Methods

  • Historical analysis of the post-Civil Rights era, drawing on newspapers, Black magazines such as Ebony and Essence, advertisements, beauty columns, letters to editors, and secondary scholarship.
  • The article traces marketing strategies, corporate responses, colourism debates, and business ownership; no formal sampling, statistical model, or systematic consumer survey is reported.

Limitations

  • The paper states no limitations.
  • Evident from the text: the analysis relies heavily on periodical advertisements, letters, and secondary scholarship rather than systematic consumer surveys or sales data, so it captures public and industry discourse more than the full range of Black women’s experiences.
  • Evident from the text: the scope is primarily the United States in the post-Civil Rights era, with no comparative international or long-term quantitative evidence presented.

Model-written summary. Check it against the paper before relying on it.

Integrity signals

Registry

Crossref · 10.1111/1468-0424.12522

Cites

16 of 16 references verified0 citation errors · 0 not checkable

Statistics

Nothing to recompute.

Claims the paper makes

0 of 47 cited sources checked · 0 supported · 0 flagged

  • Findingcitation

    Between 1964 and 1969, more than six new cosmetics brands launched exclusively for black women.

    “between 1964 and 1969, more than six new cosmetics brands launched exclusively for black women.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [34]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Findingcitation

    Companies created 'fade creams, even tone creams, dark spot correctors'.

    “Instead, companies created 'fade creams, even tone creams, dark spot correctors'.76”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [76]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Findingnone given

    The rise in the visibility of black women and pride in black skin created a flurry of black cosmetics lines and products.

    “while the rise in the visibility of black women and pride in black skin created a flurry of black cosmetics lines and products”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim
  • Findingcitation

    By the late 1970s, the influence of 'Black is Beautiful' was waning.

    “By the late 1970s, the influence of 'Black is Beautiful' was waning.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim
  • Findingcitation

    By the mid-1970s, cosmetics giants Max Factor, Avon and Revlon had launched cosmetics campaigns exclusively for black skin tones.

    “by the mid-1970s, cosmetics giants Max Factor, Avon and Revlon had launched cosmetics campaigns exclusively for black skin tones.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [50]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Classified as probably not a substantial claim. 36
  • May combine two claims. 40

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingnone given

    The success of black cosmetics attracted widespread attention from across the cosmetics industry.

    “their success attracted widespread attention from across the industry”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    A 1974 Ebony special issue juxtaposed an article on black women's precarious position with an advertisement for skin bleaching cream designed to bring out 'natural skin tone', reflecting that black women continued to face racialised beauty standards despite increasing recognition of intersecting discriminations.

    “One example can be found in a 1974 Ebony special issue in which an article titled 'Stresses and Strains on Black Women' detailing the precarious position of black women -drawing attention to their increasing suicide rate and poor records of mental health -was placed alongside an advertisement for skin bleaching cream which was designed to bring out 'natural skin tone'.77 The juxtaposition of these”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [77]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

    • Rests on an assumption: Advertisements and promotional materials reflect the cosmetics industry's underlying beauty ideals and messages.
    • Rests on an assumption: Magazine articles and advertisements placed in Ebony and Essence reflect broader cultural and industry trends.

  • May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    Nadinola repeatedly exploited the language of black pride to sell their products, masking the continuance of white beauty standards.

    “Equally as paradoxical was how Nadinola repeatedly exploited the language of black pride to sell their products: 'Black is Beautiful.Naturally beautiful.But there's one requirement: naturally beautiful skin.That's where Nadinola comes in.Nadinola brings out the natural beauty of your complexion … Black is Beautiful.What makes it even more beautiful?Nadinola.Naturally'.70 The use of 'beautiful' and”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [70]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

    • Rests on an assumption: Advertisements and promotional materials reflect the cosmetics industry's underlying beauty ideals and messages.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingnone given

    The reaction to the article further opened up the conversation within Ebony readership to their opinions and experiences of colourism.

    “The reaction to this article further opened up the conversation within Ebony readership to their opinions and experiences of colourism.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    Ebony declared that while 1950s queens were light skinned and late 1960s queens dark skinned, the 1970s offered a chance for all skin tones to be embraced.

    “In explaining the changes in beauty pageants in historically black colleges, Ebony declared that while the 1950s queens were light skinned and those of the late 1960s were dark skinned, the 1970s offered a chance for all skin tones to be embraced.84”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [84]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    The AHBAI outlined four priorities: to promote the industry, represent its interests before government agencies, strengthen communication between industry leaders, Black cosmetologists, and consumers, and contribute to business and social growth in the Black community.

    “When AHBAI was formed in 1981, our members set four priorities that continue to guide us 1) To promote the industry 2) Represent our industry's interests before government agencies 3) Strengthen communication between industry leaders, Black cosmetologists, and consumers 4) Contribute to business and social growth in the Black community.108”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [108]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingcitation

    Ebony framed this as a success of the Civil Rights Movement in that 'the young are more secure in their blackness and therefore can tolerate variation'.

    “Ebony framed this as a success of the Civil Rights Movement in that 'that the young are more secure in their blackness and therefore can tolerate variation'.85”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [85]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingnone given

    In 1981, an alliance of black beauty businesses, the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI), was formed.

    “In 1981, an alliance of black beauty businesses, the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI), was formed.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingnone given

    Six months after the pageant, Ebony tried once more to calm the furore by rereleasing their 1980 article 'What is Black Beauty?' in June 1984.

    “Six months after the pageant, Ebony tried once more to calm the furore by rereleasing their 1980 article 'What is Black Beauty?' in June 1984.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingown data

    The reaction to the rereleased article was one of frustration.

    “But the reaction this time was one of frustration.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Classified as probably not a substantial claim. May combine two claims.

    Findingreasoning

    Dark-skinned blacks took aim at the beauty industry for maintaining white beauty standards, drawing attention to the drastic things young black Americans continued to do in order to look white.

    “Dark-skinned blacks took aim at the beauty industry for maintaining white beauty standards, drawing attention to the drastic things young black Americans continued to do in order to look white.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Findingnone given

    Avon had done this for years, emphasising their many black women representatives.

    “Avon had done this for years, emphasising their many black women representatives.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    Although the AHBAI had announced a $3 million annual deal to promote black businesses at the end of the 1980s, by the early 1990s, beauty editors doubted that they had the 'deep pockets needed for massive advertising campaigns as well as the financial clout to demand adequate shelf space'.

    “Although the AHBAI had announced a $3 million annual deal to promote black businesses at the end of the 1980s, by the early 1990s, beauty editors doubted that they had the 'deep pockets needed for massive advertising campaigns as well as the financial clout to demand adequate shelf space'.119”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [119]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Findingreasoning

    A year later, Revlon president Irving Bottner repeated these sentiments in an interview with Newsweek, but this time they went too far.

    “A year later, Revlon president Irving Bottner repeated these sentiments in an interview with Newsweek, but this time they went too far.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    Shortly thereafter, Revlon promised to review hiring practices to include more minorities and leave apartheid South Africa.

    “Shortly thereafter, they promised to review hiring practices to include more minorities and leave apartheid South Africa.116”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [116]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    Black women had become the cosmetics industry's 'new darling' and in 1993, for the first time, the ethnic cosmetics market grew at a faster rate than ethnic hair-care market, growing by fifteen per cent.

    “Black women had become the cosmetics industry's 'new darling' and in 1993, for the first time, the ethnic cosmetics market grew at a faster rate than ethnic hair-care market, growing by fifteen per cent.118”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [118]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Findingcitation

    Two years later, Revlon teamed up with the NAACP, donating $25,000 to support their scholarships and stay in school programs.

    “Two years later, they teamed up with the National Association for the Advancement of Coloured People, donating $25,000 to support their scholarships and stay in school programs.117”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [117]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The cosmetics industry increasingly used the slogan 'Black is Beautiful', and some of the ideas it represented, to target the black female demographic.

    “the cosmetics industry -which was built on these very standards -increasingly used the slogan, and some of the ideas it represented, to target the black female demographic.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    Although 'Black is Beautiful' was developed to combat colourism, in some ways it heightened these distinctions.

    “Thus, although 'Black is Beautiful' was developed to combat colourism, in some ways it heightened these distinctions.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationnone given

    The high level of success of black cosmetics increasingly caught the attention of white corporations, which eventually monopolised the industry, strangling smaller, black-owned business.

    “the high level of success of black cosmetics increasingly caught the attention of white corporations, which eventually monopolised the industry, strangling smaller, black-owned business”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S4 (based).

    Interpretationnone given

    Despite the major shift in how African Americans defined beauty in the late 1960s, the cosmetics industry failed to seriously engage with changing standards.

    “Despite the major shift in how African Americans defined beauty in the late 1960s, the cosmetics industry failed to seriously engage with changing standards.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationnone given

    Although brown beauty signalled a shift in the colour hierarchy within black communities and an expansion of ideals, it did not denote the radical and uninhibited celebration of blackness that would come later with 'Black is Beautiful'.

    “Thus, although brown beauty signalled a shift in the colour hierarchy within black communities and an expansion of ideals, it did not denote the radical and uninhibited celebration of blackness that would come later with 'Black is Beautiful'.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Premisecitation

    Tracey Owens Patton attributes the decline of 'Black is Beautiful' to the wider exchange of black separatism for assimilation in the later 1970s into the 1980s.

    “In her study of African American women and body image, scholar Tracey Owens Patton attributes this decline to the wider exchange of black separatism for assimilation in the later 1970s into the 1980s.78”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [78]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationcitation

    By the late 1970s, beauty standards were reverting to the pre-1965 era, and the only significant change was that skin bleach was no longer advertised as a means to achieve whiter or lighter skin, but increasingly as a method to draw out one's 'natural' skin tone.

    “Indeed, many argued that standards were reverting back to the pre-1965 era, and that the only significant change was that skin bleach was no longer advertised as a means to achieve whiter or lighter skin, but rather increasingly as a method to draw out one's 'natural' skin tone.74”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [74]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Premisecitation

    In the early 1970s, 'Black is Beautiful' forced companies to tone down their language.

    “Scholar Simone Puff argues that in the early 1970s, 'Black is Beautiful' forced companies to 'tone down their language'.75”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [75]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    While 'Black is Beautiful' had significant impact on African American conceptions of beauty, it failed to completely sever old conceptions and practices of beauty from the pre-Civil Rights era.

    “However, at the same time, while 'Black is Beautiful' clearly had significant impact on African American conceptions of beauty, it failed to completely sever the old conceptions and practices of beauty from the pre-Civil Rights era.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The cosmetics industry adapted the rhetoric of 'Black is Beautiful' to attract black customers but still reinforced ideals based on white, or at least light, skin.

    “Instead, what developed was a pluralism in which the cosmetics industry adapted the rhetoric of 'Black is Beautiful' to attract black customers but still reinforced ideals based on white, or at least light, skin.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The language and labels changed, but the products were as white as ever.

    “This change aptly reflected the changes surrounding race and the cosmetics industry at this time; the language and the labels changed, but the products were as white as ever.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Premisecitation

    Black commentators cautioned that while the middle class was growing, those worse off in the 1960s were continuing to fall further behind.

    “At the same time, black commentators cautioned that while the middle class was growing, those worse off in the 1960s were continuing the fall further behind.102”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [102]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Premisecitation

    Black beauty columnists contended that although black beauty had come a long way from the 1960s, it was still 'often disguised by poverty', something they reminded African Americans still suffered from disproportionately.

    “Black beauty columnists related this to the beauty industry, contending that although black beauty had come a long way from the 1960s, it was still 'often disguised by poverty', something which they reminded African Americans still suffered from disproportionately.103”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [103]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S4 (based).

    Interpretationnone given

    These messages did not make much impact.

    “Yet these messages did not make much impact.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The advertisement spoke to all classes of black women, and Avon made it clear that it supported all black women regardless of their white ownership or history.

    “This advertisement spoke to all classes of black women: from those women who had been able to develop into a new professional class of black women, to poorer black women who would have made use of non-profit organisations.In this way, Avon made it clear that it supported all black women regardless of their white ownership or history.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Premisecitation

    Director Lafayette Jones claimed that the motivation behind the association was that black companies faced 'an ever-widening encroachment of general-market firms onto their turf'.

    “Director Lafayette Jones claimed that the motivation behind the association was that black companies faced 'an ever-widening encroachment of general-market firms onto their turf'.107”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [107]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    Although cosmetics companies continued to use the rhetoric of Black Power and 'Black is Beautiful' into the late 1980s, there were more signs that beauty ideals were regressing rather than evolving.

    “Although cosmetics companies continued to use the rhetoric of Black Power and 'Black is Beautiful' into the late 1980s, there were more signs that beauty ideals were regressing rather than evolving.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    As a result, Eurocentric norms regained popularity in both hair style and skin colour.

    “As a result, Eurocentric norms regained popularity, in regard to both hair style and skin colour.80”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [80]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Interpretationreasoning

    Realising that the tensions could not be glossed over by emphasising a spiritual connection to blackness, Ebony decided to tackle the conflict of skin colour head on.

    “Realising that the tensions could not be glossed over by emphasising a spiritual connection to blackness, Ebony decided to tackle the conflict of skin colour head on.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Interpretationreasoning

    This was an attempt to remove skin tone as a variable in black beauty ideals.

    “This was an attempt to remove skin tone as a variable in black beauty ideals.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Premisecitation

    Black businesses were warned that they would have to fight harder to keep, let alone increase, their share of the pie.

    “In recognising both the diversity of the consumer base within the ethnic cosmetics bracket and the increasing attention from white companies, black businesses were warned that 'they are going to have to fight harder to keep, let alone increase, their share of the pie'.105”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [105]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Premisecitation

    The author of 'Is Skin Colour Still a Problem in Black America?' argued that while issues were accentuated by the beauty industry, colourism still had serious psychological and sociological effects on black communities.

    “The author argued that while issues were accentuated by the beauty industry, colourism still had serious psychological and sociological effects on black communities.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [93]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Premisecitation

    The author of 'What is Black Beauty?' maintained that black beauty is evolving and cannot be defined with finality, and is defined by its relationship to blackness.

    “The author maintained that 'black beauty is evolving and cannot be defined with finality.Black beauty is black beauty … black beauty is beauty defined by its relationship to blackness'.87”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [87]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    Fears of skin darkening still evident well into the 1970s reveal that colourism was not eradicated by 'Black is Beautiful'.

    “That these fears were still evident well into the 1970s reveals that colourism was not eradicated by 'Black is Beautiful'.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The cosmetics industry recognised that African American women were not homogenous and that regardless of what they had, they disproportionately spent on cosmetics.

    “Thus, the cosmetics industry recognised two things.First, African American women were not homogenous.They came from different backgrounds, had different occupations and subsequently had different levels of money available to spend on cosmetics.Second, and more important for the industry, regardless of what they did have, they disproportionately spent on cosmetics.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • Classified as probably not a substantial claim. May combine two claims.

    Premisecitation

    The author postulated that although there had been a change within African American attitudes to beauty, within wider (white) American society, there was still an overwhelming amount of media messages suggesting that to be beautiful is to be fair-skinned and blue eyes with long straight hair.

    “It postulated that although there had been a change within African American attitudes to beauty, within wider (white) American society, there was still an overwhelming amount of 'media messages that suggest, day in day out, that to be beautiful is to be fair-skinned and blue eyes with long straight hair'.94”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [94]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S1 (asserted), S3 (load-bearing).

    Premisecitation

    Beauty columnists asserted that companies were targeting 'the keen fashion sense and increased buying power of upscale professional black women as their tickets to profits in the $4 billion cosmetics industry'.

    “Beauty columnists asserted that companies, new and old, were targeting 'the keen fashion sense and increased buying power of upscale professional black women as their tickets to profits in the $4 billion cosmetics industry'.101”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [101]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The often-disingenuous promotion of redefined beauty standards which idolised dark skin, coupled with the continued selling of skin whiteners, made the cosmetics industry fertile ground for conflicts surrounding skin tone and colourism to fester.

    “The often-disingenuous promotion of redefined beauty standards which idolised dark skin, coupled with the continued selling of skin whiteners, made the cosmetics industry fertile ground for conflicts surrounding skin tone and colourism to fester.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    This change meant that while black women were more represented in beauty ideals, they still were not liberated from them.

    “Conversely, though, this change meant that while black women were more represented in beauty ideals, they still were not liberated from them.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing), S4 (based).

    Interpretationnone given

    In some ways, this reflected the success of movements in the 1960s to expose and eradicate inequality.

    “In some ways, this reflected the success of movements in the 1960s to expose and eradicate inequality.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    This was validation of Avon's strategy with UniWorld Group Inc. back in 1973, and consequently while black cosmetics companies may have suffered, black marketing and advertising companies thrived through opting to consult with major firms.

    “This was validation of Avon's strategy with UniWorld Group Inc. back in 1973, and consequently while black cosmetics companies may have suffered, black marketing and advertising companies thrived through opting to consult with major firms.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S4 (based). May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    This paved the way for the brief but uninhibited celebration of blackness, popularised by the slogan 'Black is Beautiful', which called for African Americans, particularly those with dark skin, to be considered beautiful as part of the political project against racism.

    “This paved the way for the brief but uninhibited celebration of blackness, popularised by the slogan 'Black is Beautiful', which called for African Americans, particularly those with dark skin, to be considered beautiful as part of the political project against racism.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S4 (based). May combine two claims.

    Interpretationnone given

    As the ethnic cosmetics market became crowded, issues surrounding ownership and appropriation accentuated class and racial tensions, which ultimately lead to the demise of smaller black businesses.

    “Moreover, as the ethnic cosmetics market became crowded, issues surrounding ownership and appropriation accentuated class and racial tensions, which ultimately lead to the demise of smaller black businesses.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The lesson Revlon learned was that while economics may have been a key factor in the consumption of cosmetics, companies who wanted to appeal to black women could not underestimate the importance of race in how they conducted their businesses.

    “The lesson Revlon learned was that while economics may have been a key factor in the consumption of cosmetics, companies who wanted to appeal to black women could not underestimate the importance of race in how they conducted their businesses.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • Classified as probably not a substantial claim. May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    This complicated relationship symbolised equality and increased representation, but also manipulation and exploitation.

    “This complicated relationship symbolised equality and increased representation, but also manipulation and exploitation.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    This growth reflected the interest from major players in the industry, but also indicated the demise of smaller, minority-owned enterprises.

    “This growth reflected the interest from major players in the industry, but this also indicated the demise of smaller, minority-owned enterprises.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Premisecitation

    Jackson stated that Bottner's words were the result of the wrongful assumption that 'black women will choose lipstick over liberation'.

    “Jackson stated that Bottner's words were the result of the wrongful assumption that 'black women will choose lipstick over liberation'.114”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [114]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing), S4 (based). May combine two claims.

    Interpretationnone given

    While beauty consumers and commentators were preoccupied with issues surrounding skin tone and appropriation in cosmetics and advertising, black cosmetics businesses faced problems of their own, as the 1980s brought further interest from general market.

    “While beauty consumers and commentators were preoccupied with issues surrounding skin tone and appropriation in cosmetics and advertising, black cosmetics businesses faced problems of their own, as the 1980s brought further interest from general market”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Interpretationnone given

    Revlon reacted by taking a page out of Avon's book.

    “Revlon reacted by taking a page out of Avon's book.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    The redefined standards granted the cosmetics industry access to black women as consumers in unprecedented ways, with some negative consequences for both women and their communities.

    “Indeed, the redefined standards granted the cosmetics industry access to black women as consumers in unprecedented ways, with some negative consequences for both women and their communities.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • May combine two claims.

    Interpretationreasoning

    While 'Black is Beautiful' briefly caused a redefinition of beauty ideals which included black women of all skin tones, some of these changes created more damage down the line.

    “However, while this briefly caused a redefinition of beauty ideals which included black women of all skin tones, some of these changes created more damage down the line.”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S1 (asserted), S3 (load-bearing). May combine two claims.

    Premisecitation

    Bottner predicted that in the next couple of years, the black-owned beauty businesses would disappear and be sold to white companies because black customers buy quality products and often their black brothers didn't do them any good.

    “Bottner predicted that 'in the next couple of years, the black-owned [beauty] businesses will disappear.They'll all be sold to white companies' because 'black customers buy quality products, often their black brothers didn't do them any good'.112”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [112]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Classified as probably not a substantial claim.

    Premisecitation

    In 1985, a Revlon representative stated 'it's not a matter of race, it's a matter of economics. The black consumer doesn't know who makes the products, they only know which one works better'.

    “In 1985, a representative from the company stated 'it's not a matter of race, it's a matter of economics.The black consumer doesn't know who makes the products, they only know which one works better'.111”
    Quote in the paperSubstantial claim0 of 1 sources checked
    • cites [111]

      Couldn’t be matched to a paper in Crossref, so it can’t be checked.

  • Probably not a substantial claim: may not pass S3 (load-bearing).

    Interpretationreasoning

    This indicated the continued significance of the language of the black equality struggle.

    “This indicated the continued significance of the language of the black equality struggle.”
    Quote in the paperNot a substantial claim
61 of 61

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    No scholarly study existed into how changing attitudes affected the relationship between black women and the cosmetics industry.

    “However, there has been no scholarly study into how these changing attitudes affected the relationship between black women and the cosmetics industry.”

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    The cosmetics industry was based on artificially enhancing women's bodies in pursuit of a white, European ideal.

    “An industry based on artificially enhancing women's bodies in pursuit of a white, European ideal was attempting to engage with a cultural movement which represented its antithesis: 'Black is Beautiful'.”

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    Advertisements and promotional materials reflect the cosmetics industry's underlying beauty ideals and messages.

    “The use of 'beautiful' and 'natural' simply masked the continuance of white beauty standards.”

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    Letters to beauty columnists and magazine readers represent broader African American women's attitudes and anxieties about skin tone.

    “Letters to beauty columnists in the mid-1970s reflected the faltering popularity of dark skin.”

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    Magazine articles and advertisements placed in Ebony and Essence reflect broader cultural and industry trends.

    “The juxtaposition of these columns reflects that although there was increasing recognition of how discriminations intersected to disproportionally affect black women, they nonetheless continued to face racialised beauty standards.”

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    Title XII of the Civil Rights Act 1964 barred employment discrimination and affirmative action programs were introduced, enabling black women to move into occupations traditionally reserved for white counterparts.

    “Indeed, thanks to Title XII of the Civil Rights Act 1964, which barred employment discrimination and the introduction of affirmative action programs, black women were increasingly able to move into occupations traditionally reserved for their white counterparts.”

  • The paper relies on this without support.

    African Americans were excluded from the Miss America pageant both formally and informally since its founding in 1921.

    “Since the pageant's founding in 1921, African Americans had been excluded both formally and then informally.”
7 of 7

Claims other papers make about this one

Each is checked against this paper’s own text: does it say what the citing paper says it does?

  • Kelly's comments evoke the "Black is Beautiful" slogan from the 1960s and 1970s Black Consciousness and Black Power movements, which protested against institutional racism and sought to celebrate Black features, including dark skin, Afro hair and Black cultures.

    “Her comments evoke the “Black is Beautiful” slogan from the 1960s and 1970s Black Consciousness and Black Power movements, which protested against institutional racism and sought to celebrate Black features, including dark skin, Afro hair and Black cultures (Baird, 2021).”

    From Skin shade and relationships: how colourism pits Black and mixed Black-White women against each other (2024) · cites this paper as Baird, 2021

    Split into 2 atoms — 0 confirmed, 2 partially supported, 0 disputed, 0 misattributed, 0 unverifiable. Expand the claim to see per-atom verdicts.

    Experimental — accuracy not yet measured

Cites

Flagged first, then by citations

Research works printed but not linked: 17

  1. Whoopi Goldberg, 'Foreword' in Beverly Johnson (ed.), True Beauty: Secrets of Radiant Beauty for Women of Every Age and Color (New York: Grand Central Pub, 1994).
  2. Roberts, Pageants, Parlors, and Pretty Women, pp. 62-5.
  3. Roberts, Pageants, Parlors, and Pretty Women, pp. 64-7.
  4. Peiss, Hope in a Jar, pp. 108-10.
  5. Peiss, Hope in a Jar, pp. 108-10.
  6. Peiss, Hope in a Jar, pp. 204-05.
  7. Peiss, Hope in a Jar, pp. 207-08.
  8. Craig, Ain't I a Beauty Queen?, pp. 37-9.
  9. Peiss, Hope in a Jar, pp. 262-3.
  10. Feitz, 'Creating a Multicultural Soul', pp. 116-20.
  11. Feitz, 'Creating a Multicultural Soul', pp. 116-7.
  12. Simone Puff, 'Writing (about) the Black Female Body: An Exploration of Skin Color Politics in Adver- tising within Ebony and Essence' in Adria Y Goldman, Vanatta S. Ford, Alexa A. Harris and Natasha R. Howard (eds), Black Women and Popular Culture: The Conversation Continues (Lanham: Lexington Books, 2014), pp. 232-5.
  13. Verna M. Keith, 'A Colorstruck World: Skin Tone, Achievement and Self-Esteem among African Amer- ican Women' in Evelyn Nakano Glenn (ed.), Shades of Difference: Why Skin Color Matters (California: Stanford University Press, 2009), p. 25.
  14. Ebony, April 1975, p. 78. 86. Ebony, November 1980, pp. 159-62.
  15. Ebony, November 1980, pp. 160-1.
  16. Dawn Perlmutter, 'Miss America: Whose Ideal'?, in Peg Zeglin Brand (ed.), Beauty Matters (Indiana: Indiana University Press, 2000), p. 157.
  17. Ebony, August 1984, p. 14. 93. Ebony, December 1984, pp. 66-72.

Cited by

Sorted by citations

Related

Authors
Baird, M. L.
Affiliations
Queen's University Belfast (GB)
Corresponding author
Baird, Melissa L.
ORCID
Baird, Melissa L.
Venue
Gender & History
Publisher
Wiley
Published
2021-03-11
Volume
33
Issue
2
Pages
557-574
ISSN
  • 0953-5233 (ISSN-L)
  • 1468-0424
DOI
10.1111/1468-0424.12522
OpenAlex
W3138065285
Semantic Scholar
6e20ddccc0b83edb611054499d53ded18f5578ec
Cited by
12
References
16
Citations by year
2026: 3 · 2025: 2 · 2024: 4 · 2023: 3
FWCI
2.43
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
Locations
  • Gender & History (publishedVersion, cc-by)
  • Research Portal (Queen's University Belfast) (submittedVersion, cc-by)
Topics
  • Social Sciences › Sociology and Political Science › Race, History, and American Society
  • Social Sciences › Business, Management and Accounting › Marketing › American History and Culture
  • Social Sciences › Gender Studies › Media, Gender, and Advertising
Keywords
Black women, cosmetics industry, beauty standards, colorism, cosmetics advertising, gender expectations, business ownership, post-Civil Rights era, Black communities, commodification of beauty

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