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Cited by 56Hair Growth and DisordersSkin Protection and Agingmelanin and skin pigmentation

Transepidermal UV radiation of scalp skin ex vivo induces hair follicle damage that is alleviated by the topical treatment with caffeine

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Gherardini, Jennifer, Wegner, Jeannine, Chéret, Jérémy, Ghatak, Sushmita, Lehmann, Janin, Alam, Majid, Jimenez, Francisco, Funk, Wolfgang +5 more·2019·International Journal of Cosmetic Science
DOI 10.1111/ics.12521PMC PMC6850087
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Abstract

Objectives: Although the effect of ultraviolet radiation ( UVR ) on human skin has been extensively studied, very little is known on how UVR impacts on hair follicle ( HF ) homeostasis. Here, we investigated how solar spectrum UVR that hits the human skin surface impacts on HF biology, and whether any detrimental effects can be mitigated by a widely used cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredient, caffeine. Methods: Human scalp skin with terminal HF s was irradiated transepidermally ex vivo using either 10 J/cm 2 UVA (340–440 nm) + 20 mJ /cm 2 UVB (290–320 nm) (low dose) or 50 J/cm 2 UVA + 50 mJ /cm 2 UVB (high dose) and organ‐cultured under serum‐free conditions for 1 or 3 days. 0.1% caffeine (5.15 mmol/L) was topically applied for 3 days prior to UV exposure with 40 J/cm 2 UVA + 40 mJ /cm 2 UVB and for 3 days after UVR . The effects on various toxicity and vitality read‐out parameters were measured in defined skin and HF compartments. Results: Consistent with previous results, transepidermal UVR exerted skin cytotoxicity and epidermal damage. Treatment with high and/or low UVA + UVB doses also induced oxidative DNA damage and cytotoxicity in human HF s. In addition, it decreased proliferation and promoted apoptosis of HF outer root sheath ( ORS ) and hair matrix ( HM ) keratinocytes, stimulated catagen development, differentially regulated the expression of HF growth factors, and induced perifollicular mast cell degranulation. UVR ‐mediated HF damage was more severe after irradiation with high UVR dose and reached also proximal HF compartments. The topical application of 0.1% caffeine did not induce skin or HF cytotoxicity and stimulated the expression of IGF ‐1 in the proximal HF ORS . However, it promoted keratinocyte apoptosis in selected HF compartments. Moreover, caffeine provided protection towards UVR ‐mediated HF cytotoxicity and dystrophy, keratinocyte apoptosis, and tendential up‐regulation of the catagen‐promoting growth factor. Conclusion: Our study highlights the clinical relevance of our scalp UV irradiation ex vivo assay and provides the first evidence that transepidermal UV radiation negatively affects important human HF functions. This suggests that it is a sensible prophylactic strategy to integrate agents such as caffeine that can act as HF photoprotectants into sun‐protective cosmeceutical and nutraceutical formulations.

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  • Various studies have found that alkaloids such as sanguinarine, piperine and caffeine act as defenders against ultraviolet radiation damage.

    “Various studies have found that alkaloids such as sanguinarine, piperine and caffeine act as defenders against ultraviolet radiation damage (Dinkova-Kostova 2008;Verma et al. 2017;Gherardini et al. 2019).”

    From Skin protection from solar ultraviolet radiation using natural compounds: a review (2024) · cites this paper as Gherardini et al. 2019

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Authors
Gherardini, J., Wegner, J., Chéret, J., Ghatak, S., Lehmann, J., Alam, M., Jimenez, F., Funk, W., Böhm, M., Botchkareva, N. V., Ward, C., Paus, R., & Bertolini, M.
Affiliations
  • Monasterium Laboratory GmbH Muenster Germany
  • Universidad de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (ES)
  • Mediteknia Skin & Hair Lab Universidad Fernando Pessoa Canarias, and Medical Pathology Group IUIBS Universidad de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Las Palmas Spain
  • Clinic for Plastic Aesthetic and Reconstructive Surgery Dr. med. Funk Munich Germany
  • University of Münster (DE)
  • University of Miami (US)
Corresponding author
Bertolini, Marta
ORCID
Venue
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Publisher
Wiley
Published
2019-04
Volume
41
Issue
2
Pages
164-182
ISSN
  • 0142-5463 (ISSN-L)
  • 1468-2494
DOI
10.1111/ics.12521
PMC
PMC6850087
OpenAlex
W2913007239
Cited by
56
References
6
Citations by year
2026: 5 · 2025: 8 · 2024: 9 · 2023: 13 · 2022: 4 · 2021: 6 · 2020: 7 · 2019: 3 · 2018: 1
FWCI
6.39
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
Locations
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc)
  • Europe PMC (PubMed Central) (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc)
  • PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc)
  • PubMed (publishedVersion)
  • Research Explorer (The University of Manchester) (publishedVersion, other-oa)
  • Acceda (Universidad de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria) (submittedVersion)
Funders
DR. KURT WOLFF GMBH & CO. KG.
Topics
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Urology › Hair Growth and Disorders
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
  • Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
Keywords
ultraviolet radiation, hair follicle damage, caffeine, scalp skin, UVA, UV-B radiation, hair follicle homeostasis, keratinocyte apoptosis, catagen, insulin-like growth factor I, oxidative DNA damage, mast cell degranulation
MeSH terms
Administration, Topical, Aged, Caffeine, Female, Hair, Humans, Insulin-Like Growth Factor I, Mast Cells, Middle Aged, Scalp, Skin, Ultraviolet Rays, Cell Degranulation, Transforming Growth Factor beta

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Confidence bands are shown only for fields calibrated on our annotated test set. None is calibrated yet, so no band is shown.

What counts as a claim ›How we measure confidence ›How we check this ›

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