Comparison of Cutaneous Bioavailability of Cosmetic Preparations Containing Caffeine or α-Tocopherol Applied on Human Skin Models or Human Skin ex vivo at Finite Doses
Abstract
The use of human skin models for performing cutaneous bioavailability studies has been little investigated. For instance, only few studies have been reported on human skin models dealing with vehicle effects on percutaneous penetration. The present study aimed at evaluating the influence on caffeine’s and α-tocopherol’s cutaneous bioavailability of cosmetic vehicles such as a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a liposome dispersion and a hydrogel applied at finite dose using the reconstructed human skin models EpiDerm® and Episkin®. The results were compared with those obtained in human skin ex vivo using similar experimental conditions. It was demonstrated that the rank order of solute permeability could be correctly predicted when the preparation was applied at a finite dose in human skin models, at least when solutes with far different physicochemical properties such as caffeine and α-tocopherol were used. If only slight effects of cosmetic vehicle on skin bioavailability were observed in human skin ex vivo, they were less predictable using skin models. Especially, alcohol-containing vehicles seemed to behave differently in EpiDerm as well as in Episkin than on human skin ex vivo. Stratum corneum intercellular lipid composition and organization of human skin models differ to some extent from that of human stratum corneum ex vivo, which contributes to less pronounced barrier properties, together with the increased hydration of the outermost stratum corneum layers of the models. These features, as well as still unknown factors, may explain the differences observed in vehicle effects in human skin ex vivo versus human skin models.
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The cutaneous bioavailability of α-tocopherol in various cosmetic vehicles, including water-in-oil, oil-in-water emulsions, liposomes and alcohol-containing hydrogel formulations, was evaluated using reconstituted human skin models similar to those used in this study.
“The cutaneous bioavailability of α‐tocopherol in various cosmetic vehicles, including water‐in‐oil (w/o), oil‐in‐water (o/w) emulsions, as well as liposomes and alcohol‐containing hydrogel formulations, was evaluated using reconstituted human skin models similar to those used in this study [36].”
From Microencapsulated α‐Tocopherol and Moringa Extract for Improved Skin Protection: Insights From Human Skin Assessment in Cosmetic Formulations (2025) · cites this paper as [36]
After 24 h of release test, most α-tocopherol content was absorbed in the epidermis (membrane), mainly from water-in-oil emulsion, while permeation into the dermis (receptor fluid) was considered irrelevant.
“After 24 h of release test, most α‐tocopherol content was absorbed in the epidermis (membrane), mainly from w/o emulsion. However, permeation into the dermis (receptor fluid—PBS buffer solution) was considered irrelevant.”
From Microencapsulated α‐Tocopherol and Moringa Extract for Improved Skin Protection: Insights From Human Skin Assessment in Cosmetic Formulations (2025) · cites this paper as [36]
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- Authors
- Dreher, F., Fouchard, F., Patouillet, C., Andrian, M., Simonnet, J.-T., & Benech-Kieffer, F.
- Affiliations
- L'Oréal (France) (FR)
- Venue
- Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
- Publisher
- S. Karger AG
- Published
- 2002
- Volume
- 15
- Issue
- Suppl. 1
- Pages
- 40-58
- ISSN
- 1422-2868 (ISSN-L)
- 1660-5527
- 1660-5535
- OpenAlex
- W2046393507
- Cited by
- 71
- References
- 0
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2025: 4 · 2024: 2 · 2023: 6 · 2022: 4 · 2021: 5 · 2020: 4 · 2019: 3 · 2018: 1 · 2017: 4 · 2015: 5 · 2014: 2 · 2013: 1 · 2012: 2
- FWCI
- 1.16
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Life Sciences › Pharmacology, Toxicology and Pharmaceutics › Pharmaceutical Science › Advancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Contact Dermatitis and Allergies
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Keywords
- caffeine, alpha-tocopherol, skin penetration, cosmetic vehicles, reconstructed human skin model, EpiDerm, Episkin, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, hydrogels, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier properties
- MeSH terms
- Biological Availability, Caffeine, Cosmetics, Humans, Skin, Diffusion Chambers, Culture, Skin, Artificial, alpha-Tocopherol
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