Cited by 3Fashion and Cultural TextilesCultural and Historical StudiesArt, Politics, and Modernism

The DOI matches its Crossref record; 15 of the 17 references it cites were found in a registry or an index; none of the 15 sources its claims cite is checked for support yet.

Transient Structures. Layers of Social Meaning in Conceptual Clothing

Open access
University of Art and Design, Cluj-Napoca, Romania, BROSCATEAN, Lucian, STAN, Oana, Zipcode Fashion, Cluj-Napoca, Romania·2016·Postmodern Openings

Abstract

Within the conceptual framework of WLC 2016 we have chosen to explore a transdisciplinary approach of postmodern clothing. Fashion has always been a domain in which sociological, philosophical, political, cultural approaches have spoken about its contents and contexts. Recent sociological studies of fashion have revealed the deep meanings of conceptual clothing and the interwoven network of thoughts that is the starting point for such intellectual approaches. Fashion scholars such as Bradley Quinn, Caroline Evans, Valerie Steele or Malcolm Barnard have underlined the role of conceptual clothing in casting a light upon various social issues and symptoms. Through this paper we want to argument how layers of social meaning transform certain fashion projects in reflexions of the Zeitgeist. In the current socio-political context such investigations do not necessarily offer pertinent answers, but certainly raise more questions and awareness.

Overview

AI snapshot

Written from the paper’s full text.

TL;DR

The paper argues that conceptual fashion can carry layered social meanings and act as a temporary shelter or protective habitus amid fragmented contemporary life. It reads selected projects by Hussein Chalayan and Lucy Orta as responses to displacement, identity loss, and social precarity.

Key findings

  • Conceptual clothing is framed as a kind of temporary home or protective layer, with designers translating social issues into garments and installations. Chalayan’s *Afterwords* (2000) is discussed as a wearable evacuation solution in which furniture textiles become clothing, chairs become suitcases, and a coffee table becomes a telescopic skirt.
  • Chalayan’s *Absent Presence* (2005) and *Temporal Meditations* (2003) explore identity, genetics, geography, and otherness. *Absent Presence* involves DNA taken from clothing of three immigrant women in London and a scientist who begins to question her own methods; *Temporal Meditations* is set in an airport as a heterotopia and draws on Chalayan’s research into his genetic and ethnic roots.
  • Orta’s *Refugee Wear* (1992) responds to the Gulf War with weatherproof garments that can become tent-like temporary shelters. *Nexus Architecture* (1993–2002) uses worker overalls for collective social sculptures, including a 1995 Venice Biennale intervention with newspaper headlines about the Rwanda genocide and a 2000 installation opposing child manufacturing plants.
  • *Modular Architecture* (1996) combines portable shelter with community-oriented logic: units are grouped in fours and can combine into a single construction while remaining individually wearable and personalizable.

Methods

  • The paper uses a cultural-based, transdisciplinary approach drawing on fashion theory, art history, visual culture, and cultural studies, with a bricolage-inspired interpretive collage.
  • Sources include written articles and reviews, images, and video materials. The analysis is divided into two categories: individual identity struggle, examined through Chalayan, and functional transient shelter, examined through Orta.
  • The study focuses on six projects: Chalayan’s *Afterwords*, *Temporal Meditations*, and *Absent Presence*; Orta’s *Refugee Wear*, *Modular Architecture*, and *Nexus Architecture*.

Limitations

  • Stated in the paper: the authors could not access the *Temporal Meditations* fashion film because of a lack of visual support, so they relied on photographic and textual material from Pitti Immagine Uomo and on the ready-to-wear collection.
  • Stated in the paper: such investigations may not offer definitive answers and mainly raise questions and awareness.
  • Evident from the text: the study is interpretive and theoretical, with no empirical data, audience reception, or systematic comparative criteria; its claims are limited to the selected designers and projects.

Model-written summary. Check it against the paper before relying on it.

Integrity signals

Registry

Crossref · 10.18662/po/2016.0701.09

Cites

15 of 15 references verified0 citation errors · 0 not checkable

Statistics

Nothing to recompute.

Verification

Claims the paper makes

25 Own interpretation · 11 Sources not found · 3 No full text of the sources · 2 Own result · 1 Own method

Show all 5 claims

  • Probably not a substantial claim. 31
  • It may state two separate claims as one. 19
  • The quote only partly states this claim. 5
37 of 37
  • The paper relies on this without support.

    The works of Hussein Chalayan and Lucy Orta selected for analysis are representative of conceptual clothing's layers of social meaning.

    “By focusing on the works of Lucy and Jorge Orta, and Hussein Chalayan, our aim is to explore the different ways in which social changes, urban reconfigurations, and geographical dislocation question our notions of space, form, mobility, and identity.”
  • The paper relies on this without support.

    The available photographic and textual documentation for Temporal Meditations is sufficient to interpret the fashion film's narrative and meaning.

    “Due to a lack of visual support, we did not have access to the fashion film, but we relied on photographic and textual support provided by the online platform affiliated with Pitti Immagine Uomo, and we also focused on the ready to wear collection, which materialized, through garments, the narrative of the fashion film.”
2 of 2

Citations

Cites

Show all 17 references

Research works printed but not linked: 2

  1. [9]9. Kipoz, S. (2007). Dress Against Disaster: Clothing as Hyper-Medium in Risk Society. Retrieved from www.academia.edu: www.academia.edu/1554377/Dress_against_disaster_Clothing_a
  2. [15]15. Broscatean, L., Stan, O. (2016). Transient Structures. Layers of Social Meaning in Conceptual Clothing. Postmodern Openings, 7(1), 149-164. Doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.18662/po/2016.0701. · DOI

Metadata

Authors
University of Art and Design, C.-N., BROSCATEAN, L., STAN, O., & Zipcode Fashion, C.-N.
Affiliations
Art and Design University of Cluj-Napoca (RO)
Corresponding author
BROSCATEAN, Lucian
Venue
Postmodern Openings
Published
2016-06-27
Volume
VII
Issue
1
Pages
149-164
ISSN
  • 2068-0236 (ISSN-L)
  • 2069-9387
OpenAlex
W2461756206
Cited by
3
References
17
Citations by year
2024: 2 · 2016: 1
FWCI
6.11
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Locations
  • Postmodern Openings (publishedVersion)
  • RePEc: Research Papers in Economics (submittedVersion)
Topics
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Fashion and Cultural Textiles
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Cultural and Historical Studies
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Art, Politics, and Modernism
Keywords
postmodern fashion, Hussein Chalayan, modular architecture, afterword, absent presence, urban restructuring, identity, mobility, space and form, artistic process

About these checks

Registry, retraction, Cites and statistics results are computed, not judged, with one exception: a printed reference that no index lists is read once by a model before it counts as a citation error. Claims are extracted by a model and kept only when their quote appears verbatim in the text; each cited source is then checked, with a model’s help, for whether it says what the claim relies on. Those verdicts can be wrong — read the claim’s quote and the cited source before relying on one.

A language model drew the claims from the paper on 2026-10-11, under version 3 of the claim definition (model deepseek-v4.1-flash, prompt extract-v3).

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Statistics and arithmetic are recomputed, not judged.

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