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Cited by 61Cultural and Historical StudiesSustainable Design and DevelopmentFashion and Cultural Textiles

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Materials biography as a tool for designers’ exploration of bio-based and bio-fabricated materials for the sustainable fashion industry

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Rognoli, Valentina, Petreca, Bruna, Pollini, Barbara, Saito, Carmem·2022·Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy
DOI 10.1080/15487733.2022.2124740
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Abstract

The fashion industry is highly responsible for critical environmental problems and the sector is increasingly aware of the urgent need to embark on a sustainable transition. Materials, primarily textiles, are particularly problematic for the sector’s unsustainability, despite the intensive research into alternative solutions that is currently underway. This article presents a comprehensive analysis of these socio-environmental challenges and describes how governments, industry, and designers are seeking to address the situation. Furthermore, it identifies a panorama of alternative bio-based and bio-fabricated materials that could facilitate the transition toward more sustainable fashion. We present a selection of 24 case studies of newly developed bio-based and bio-fabricated materials and group them by their origin. Analysis of the cases led to the delineation of five “materials biography categories” to help understand the prominent narratives and to communicate their characteristics and fundamental attributes. This taxonomy also serves to support concepts for a circular economy by helping to build a sort of “material passport” or “product biography,” two concepts underpinning the outcome of this study, and emphasizes the need for tools to further the communication and traceability of these emergent materials. We propose “materials biography,” an overarching idea that catalogues essential dimensions and offer it to designers, companies, and final users to enhance their perception and awareness of such novel materials.

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  • The search terms aim to minimise the number of results in cognate fields such as industrial manufacturing or fashion which do not relate directly to the research question.

    “This set of search terms aims to minimise the number of results in cognate fields such as industrial manufacturing (Jensen et al., 2023) or fashion (Rognoli et al., 2022) which do not relate directly to our research question.”

    From Digital material passports in the AEC industry: a scoping review and conceptualisation of future research challenges (2025) · cites this paper as Rognoli et al., 2022

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    “Furthermore, the DIY culture, including DIY with biology (thus incorporating DIY bio-fabrication techniques), due to its intrinsic nature, supports the model of distributed microproduction (Bianchini, and Maffei 2013), drawing on local sources and fostering bio-based and circular solutions (Devadas et al. 2021; Meyer…”
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Metadata

Authors
Rognoli, V., Petreca, B., Pollini, B., & Saito, C.
Affiliations
  • Politecnico di Milano (IT)
  • Royal College of Art (GB)
  • Materials Science Research Centre, Royal College of Art, London, UK
Corresponding author
Rognoli, Valentina
ORCID
Venue
Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy
Publisher
Informa UK Limited
Published
2022-10-25
Volume
18
Issue
1
Pages
749-772
ISSN
1548-7733 (ISSN-L)
DOI
10.1080/15487733.2022.2124740
OpenAlex
W4307385834
Cited by
61
References
1
Citations by year
2026: 14 · 2025: 18 · 2024: 21 · 2023: 7 · 2022: 1
FWCI
124.99
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
Locations
  • Sustainability Science Practice and Policy (publishedVersion, cc-by)
  • Virtual Community of Pathological Anatomy (University of Castilla La Mancha) (submittedVersion, cc-by)
  • Archive of research processes and output produced by RCA (Royal College of Art) (submittedVersion, other-oa)
  • DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
Funders
Materials Science Research Centre, Royal College of Art
Topics
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Cultural and Historical Studies
  • Physical Sciences › Engineering › Building and Construction › Sustainable Design and Development
  • Social Sciences › Arts and Humanities › Visual Arts and Performing Arts › Fashion and Cultural Textiles
Keywords
bio-based materials, sustainable fashion, sustainable textiles, circular economy, material passports

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