Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects
Abstract
OBJECTIVE: The study was undertaken to compare the skin care related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, a potential alternative to retinoids. Retinol is a pivotal regulator of differentiation and growth of developing as well as adult skin. Retinoic acid is the major physiologically active metabolite of retinol regulating gene expression through retinoic acid receptor - dependant and independent pathways. METHODS: Comparative gene expression profiling of both substances in the EpiDerm FT full thickness skin substitute model was undertaken. Furthermore, type I, III and IV collagen, as well as aquaporin 3 expression was analyzed by ELISA and/or histochemistry in human dermal fibroblasts and/or Epiderm FT skin substitutes. RESULTS: Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol abundant in seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia. We present evidence that bakuchiol, having no structural resemblance to retinoids, can function as a functional analogue of retinol. Volcano plots showed great overall similarity of retinol and bakuchiol effects on the gene expression profile. This similarity was confirmed by the side-by-side comparison of the modulation of individual genes, as well as on the protein level by ELISA and histochemistry. Retinol-like functionality was further confirmed for the upregulation of types I and IV collagen in DNA microarray study and also show stimulation of type III collagen in the mature fibroblast model. Bakuchiol was also formulated into a finished skin care product and was tested in clinical case study by twice-a-day facial application. The results showed that, after 12 weeks treatment, significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall reduction in photo-damage was observed, without usual retinol therapy-associated undesirable effects. CONCLUSION: Based on these data, we propose that bakuchiol can function as an anti-ageing compound through retinol-like regulation of gene expression.
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Vitamin A and all of its derivatives, applied systemically or topically, have a significant influence on skin health.
“Vitamin A and all of its derivatives, applied systemically or topically, have a significant influence on skin health.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [37]
Retinoids inhibit cell division during excessive proliferation and activate it when the process is too slow.
“Retinoids are a group of chemical compounds that inhibit cell division during excessive proliferation and activate it when the process is too slow.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [37]
Bakuchiol can be used as a retinol-like anti-ageing functional compound.
“The authors stress that this compound can be used as a retinol-like anti-ageing functional compound [37].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [37]
Bakuchiol can prevent wrinkles; improve pigmentation, elasticity and firmness; and reduce overall photodamage.
“Chaudhuri and Bojanowski showed that bakuchiol can prevent wrinkles; improve pigmentation, elasticity and firmness; and reduce overall photodamage.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [37]
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- Authors
- Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K.
- Affiliations
- Sytheon Ltd. Boonton NJ 07005 USA
- Sunny BioDiscovery (United States) (US)
- Corresponding author
- Chaudhuri, R. K.
- Venue
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science
- Publisher
- Wiley
- Published
- 2014-03-06
- Volume
- 36
- Issue
- 3
- Pages
- 221-230
- ISSN
- 0142-5463 (ISSN-L)
- 1468-2494
- OpenAlex
- W1980403245
- Cited by
- 169
- References
- 53
- Citations by year
- 2026: 28 · 2025: 22 · 2024: 22 · 2023: 24 · 2022: 21 · 2021: 9 · 2020: 10 · 2019: 14 · 2018: 3 · 2017: 4 · 2016: 8 · 2015: 4
- FWCI
- 5.83
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Facial Rejuvenation and Surgery Techniques
- Keywords
- bakuchiol, retinol, anti-aging, Psoralea corylifolia, retinoids, gene expression profiling, collagen expression, AQP3, dermal fibroblasts, skin care, wrinkles, photodamage, retinoic acid receptor
- MeSH terms
- Adult, Aged, Collagen, Female, Fibroblasts, Histocytochemistry, Humans, Middle Aged, Phenols, Plant Extracts, Skin, Oligonucleotide Array Sequence Analysis, Gene Expression Profiling, Psoralea, Aquaporin 3, Skin Cream
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