Efficacy of a novel hydroquinone-free skin-brightening cream in patients with melasma
Abstract
BACKGROUND: For treating irregular skin pigmentation, a hallmark of premature skin aging, safe and effective alternatives to hydroquinone and kojic acid are being researched. AIMS: Four skin-brightening actives targeting melanin formation at multiple levels, namely disodium glycerophosphate, L-leucine, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine, in an oil-in-water emulsion cream were evaluated. PATIENTS/METHODS: Twenty female patients with mild-to-moderate epidermal melasma were included. After a washout period of 1 month with a sunscreen, they continued using the sunscreen and added the novel skin-brightening cream for 12 weeks twice daily to entire face. RESULTS: Whereas there was no significant change in skin pigmentation during the washout, signs for uneven skin tone including melasma area and severity and appearance of lentigines significantly decreased by up to 43% after the 12-week treatment period with the skin-brightening cream. The skin-brightening complex is well tolerated, which should allow its continued use over a prolonged period of time, in particular, when comparing skin-brightening approaches with exfoliating or peeling agents. CONCLUSIONS: When used with a daily sunscreen, the skin-brightening complex represents a valuable alternative to hydroquinone products and can be used for maintenance or adjunct skin care with lightening therapies.
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Gold and Biron's study has small sample size and no control group, making level of evidence low.
“The sample size is relatively small, which may limit the generalizability of the findings. In addition, there was no control group in the study, making it difficult to determine if the observed improvements were due to the treatment or other factors.”
From Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review. (2024) · cites this paper as [66]
Gold and Biron reported significant improvement in melasma severity and pigmentation after treatment with a hydroquinone-free skin-brightening cream.
“The authors reported a significant improvement in melasma severity and pigmentation after treatment with the cream.”
From Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review. (2024) · cites this paper as [66]
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Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review.
Chan, L. K. W., Lee, K. W. A., Lee, C. H., Lam, K. W. P., Lee, K. F. V., Wu, R., Wan, J., Shivananjappa, S., Sky, W. T. H., Choi, H., et al. (2024) · Skin Research and Technology · doi:10.1111/srt.13730 · Cited by 23 · see citing works
“Overall, the study by Gold and Biron 66 provides preliminary evi-denceontheefficacyofthehydroquinone-freeskin-brighteningcream in patients with melasma.”
BackgroundResult
- Authors
- Gold, M. H., & Biron, J.
- Affiliations
- Gold Skin Care Center (US)
- Tennessee Clinical Research Center (US)
- ORCID
- Gold, Michael H
- Venue
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
- Publisher
- Wiley
- Published
- 2011-09
- Volume
- 10
- Issue
- 3
- Pages
- 189-196
- ISSN
- 1473-2130 (ISSN-L)
- OpenAlex
- W1936785858
- Cited by
- 29
- References
- 19
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2025: 4 · 2024: 1 · 2023: 2 · 2022: 2 · 2020: 4 · 2019: 2 · 2017: 2 · 2016: 2 · 2014: 2 · 2013: 4 · 2012: 2
- FWCI
- 3.41
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Dermatologic Treatments and Research
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Keywords
- melasma, leucine, melanogenesis, skin pigmentation, lentigines, sunscreen, skin care, premature skin aging
- MeSH terms
- Adult, Benzhydryl Compounds, Dermatologic Agents, Drug Combinations, Female, Glycerophosphates, Humans, Leucine, Melanosis, Middle Aged, Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormones, Phenylalanine, Resorcinols, Severity of Illness Index, Treatment Outcome, Lipopeptides
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