Tensile properties and contours of aging facial skin. A controlled double‐blind comparative study of the effects of retinol, melibiose‐lactose and their association
Abstract
BACKGROUND/AIMS: Facial aging is accompanied by modifications in the tensile properties and contours of skin. In the present study we instrumentally assessed and compared the effect of either 0.04% retinol (ROL), 1% melibiose and 4% lactose (ME-L) and their association (ROL-ME-L) to increase the firmness and smoothness of facial skin. A 1 % salicylic acid (SA) emulsion served as a cosmetic product reference. METHODS: A total of 120 women were allocated to four randomized groups of 30 subjects, each group receiving one of the test products or a combination of test products. The tensile properties of facial skin were measured using the Cutometer® on seven occasions during the 12-week treatment and during a 4-week post-treatment phase. Fine lines and wrinkles were assessed on replicas by using image analysis after optical shadowing. RESULTS: Significant differences in efficacy and lingering activity were observed between products. SA brought the weakest beneficial effects. ROL and ME-L provided better efficacy on both the tensile properties and contours of skin. They differed slightly according the nature of the biometrological variables. The combination ROL-ME-L achieved similar or even better results than the best of its components for each given physical property of skin. CONCLUSIONS: ROL, ME-L, and ROL-ME-L formulations improve physical properties of skin that are impaired by aging. Their activities are notably superior to those of a comparative SA formulation.
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A retinol formulation improved the physical properties of ageing facial skin, including tensile properties and contours, after 12 weeks of treatment.
“Pierard-Franchimont et al. showed that a retinol formulation improved the physical properties of ageing facial skin, including tensile properties and contours, after 12 weeks of treatment [43].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [43]
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- Authors
- Piérard‐Franchimont, C., Castelli, D., Cromphaut, I. V., Bertin, C., Ries, G., Cauwenbergh, G., & Piérard, G. E.
- Affiliations
- Johnson & Johnson (United States) (US)
- Venue
- Skin Research and Technology
- Publisher
- Wiley
- Published
- 1998-11
- Volume
- 4
- Issue
- 4
- Pages
- 237-243
- ISSN
- 0909-752X (ISSN-L)
- 1600-0846
- OpenAlex
- W2004260437
- Cited by
- 36
- References
- 16
- Citations by year
- 2026: 1 · 2024: 2 · 2023: 4 · 2022: 3 · 2021: 2 · 2020: 1 · 2019: 3 · 2017: 1 · 2016: 1 · 2015: 2 · 2014: 3
- FWCI
- 1.92
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Skin Research and Technology (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Facial Rejuvenation and Surgery Techniques
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Dermatologic Treatments and Research
- Keywords
- facial skin aging, skin firmness, skin smoothness, retinol, melibiose, lactose, salicylic acid, wrinkles, cosmetic formulation
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