Development of an efficient route for combined recycling of PET and cotton from mixed fabrics
Open accessAbstract
Most textile waste is either incinerated or landfilled today, yet, the material could instead be recycled through chemical recycling to new high-quality textiles. A first important step is separation since chemical recycling of textiles requires pure streams. The focus of this paper is on the separation of cotton and PET (poly(ethylene terephthalate), polyester) from mixed textiles, so called polycotton. Polycotton is one of the most common materials in service textiles used in sheets and towels at hospitals and hotels. A straightforward process using 5–15 wt% NaOH in water and temperature in the range between 70 and 90 °C for the hydrolysis of PET was evaluated on the lab-scale. In the process, the PET was degraded to terephthalic acid (TPA) and ethylene glycol (EG). Three product streams were generated from the process. First is the cotton; second, the TPA; and, third, the filtrate containing EG and the process chemicals. The end products and the extent of PET degradation were characterized using light microscopy, UV-spectroscopy, and ATR FT-IR spectroscopy, as well as solution and solid-state NMR spectroscopy. Furthermore, the cotton cellulose degradation was evaluated by analyzing the intrinsic viscosity of the cotton cellulose. The findings show that with the addition of a phase transfer catalyst (benzyltributylammonium chloride (BTBAC)), PET hydrolysis in 10% NaOH solution at 90 °C can be completed within 40 min. Analysis of the degraded PET with NMR spectroscopy showed that no contaminants remained in the recovered TPA, and that the filtrate mainly contained EG and BTBAC (when added). The yield of the cotton cellulose was high, up to 97%, depending on how long the samples were treated. The findings also showed that the separation can be performed without the phase transfer catalyst; however, this requires longer treatment times, which results in more cellulose degradation.
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There have recently been significant breakthroughs in the separation of cotton/polyester blends.
“Polymer, oligomer and monomer recycling is, however, hindered by a lack of technologies for sorting and separation into pure enough fractions ( € Ostlund et al., 2015), although there have recently been significant breakthroughs in the separation of cotton/polyester blends (Palme et al., 2017).”
From Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling – A review (2018) · cites this paper as Palme et al., 2017
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“The alkali hydrate can m dify the structure of textile wa te by depolymerizing PET, penetrating the amorphous region of cellulose, causing cellulose swell, and reducing its crystallinity, [24,34].”
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Moreno‐Marrodán, C., Brandi, F., Barbaro, P., & Liguori, F. (2024) · Green Chemistry · doi:10.1039/d4gc04768k · Cited by 53 · see citing works
Kinetics Study of Hydrothermal Degradation of PET Waste into Useful Products
Čolnik, M., Pečar, D., Knez, Ž., Goršek, A., & Škerget, M. (2021) · Processes · doi:10.3390/pr10010024 · Cited by 44 · see citing works
The Current State-of-the-Art of the Processes Involved in the Chemical Recycling of Textile Waste
Ndagano, U. N., Cahill, L., Smullen, C., Gaughran, J., & Kelleher, S. M. (2025) · Molecules · doi:10.3390/molecules30020299 · Cited by 45 · see citing works
“Most of the reported recycling technologies targeting blended textile have only been conducted in small-scale projects, with Palme et al. developing a lab-scale efficient route for the combined recycling of cotton and PET from polycotton [135].”
Closing the cycle: Enzymatic recovery of high purity glucose and polyester from textile blends
Gritsch, S. M., Mihalyi, S., Bartl, A., Ipsmiller, W., Jenull-Halver, U., Putz, R. F., Quartinello, F., & Guebitz, G. M. (2022) · Resources Conservation and Recycling · doi:10.1016/j.resconrec.2022.106701 · Cited by 43 · see citing works
Shen, C., Zhao, X. S., Long, Y., et al. (2023) · ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering · doi:10.1021/acssuschemeng.2c07413 · Cited by 42 · see citing works
Enzymatic textile fiber separation for sustainable waste processing
Egan, J., Wang, S., Shen, J., Baars, O., Moxley, G. W., & Salmon, S. (2023) · Resources Environment and Sustainability · doi:10.1016/j.resenv.2023.100118 · Cited by 44 · see citing works
Jiang, S., Xia, Z., Farooq, A., et al. (2021) · Cellulose · doi:10.1007/s10570-021-03738-5 · Cited by 40 · see citing works
“…of polyester and cotton (Zou et al. 2011), and (2) to recover polyester or cotton separately according to their different chemical properties, such as dissolution (Sun et al. 2013), hydrothermal separation (Shi et al. 2018), hydrolysis (Palme et al. 2017), and enzymolysis (Quartinello et al. 2018).”
BackgroundBengtsson, J., Peterson, A., Idström, A., et al. (2022) · Sustainability · doi:10.3390/su14116911 · Cited by 39 · see citing works
“Selective depolymerization of PET from cellulose/PET blends has been reported as an attractive opportunity to separate and recover the blend components for further processing into value-added products [8,9].”
BackgroundSelf-citationMcCauley, E., & Jestratijevic, I. M. (2023) · Sustainability · doi:10.3390/su15021473 · Cited by 39 · see citing works
Tearing of post-consumer cotton T-shirts and jeans of varying degree of wear
Aronsson, J., & Persson, A. L. (2020) · Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics · doi:10.1177/1558925020901322 · Cited by 36 · see citing works
“This study evaluates how fibre length distribution alters upon tearing of post-consumer cotton waste of two different constructions: denim and single jersey; and different degrees of wear, rendering four different fractions: (1) barely worn denim, (2) rather worn denim, (3) barely worn single-jersey and (4) rather wor…”
BackgroundMethodTextile waste as precursors in nanocrystalline cellulose synthesis
Vanzetto, A. B., Beltrami, L. V. R., & Zattera, A. J. (2021) · Cellulose · doi:10.1007/s10570-021-03982-9 · Cited by 34 · see citing works
“For blended fabrics, namely, those made from natural and synthetic fibers, which correspond to most fabrics produced today, recycling techniques are based on chemical treatments aimed at recovering the constituents (Ouchi et al. 2010; Palme et al. 2017).”
BackgroundMalinverno, N., Schmutz, M., Nowack, B., et al. (2022) · Resources Conservation and Recycling · doi:10.1016/j.resconrec.2022.106728 · Cited by 33 · see citing works
Nondestructive Recovery of Cotton from Waste Polycotton Textiles by Catalytic Hydrolysis
Wu, Y., Che, Y., Wei, X., et al. (2024) · ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering · doi:10.1021/acssuschemeng.4c02547 · Cited by 32 · see citing works
An, W., An, W., Tian, F., et al. (2020) · ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering · doi:10.1021/acssuschemeng.0c06240 · Cited by 30 · see citing works
Recycling of Nanocellulose from Polyester–Cotton Textile Waste for Modification of Film Composites
Srichola, P., Witthayolankowit, K., Sukyai, P., Sampoompuang, C., Lobyam, K., Kampakun, P., & Toomtong, R. (2023) · Polymers · doi:10.3390/polym15153324 · Cited by 30 · see citing works
Subramanya, S. M., Mu, Y., & Savage, P. E. (2022) · ACS Engineering Au · doi:10.1021/acsengineeringau.2c00024 · Cited by 27 · see citing works
Chen, Y., Wu, X., Wei, J., Wu, H., & Fang, J. Z. (2020) · Polymer Composites · doi:10.1002/pc.25814 · Cited by 25 · see citing works
Esmail, A., Rebocho, A. T., Marques, A. C., et al. (2022) · Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology · doi:10.3389/fbioe.2022.853322 · Cited by 25 · see citing works
“Since TA is only soluble in neutral to basic solutions (Palme et al., 2017), insoluble particles formed and became impregnated into the synthesized BC pellicles.”
BackgroundMa, J., Yang, K., Wang, M., et al. (2024) · Cellulose · doi:10.1007/s10570-024-06182-3 · Cited by 24 · see citing works
“The filtrate mainly contained EG and BTBAC, and at the same time, the recovery separation yield of cotton cellulose was 97% (Palme et al. 2017).”
Applications and environmental impact of biodegradable polymers in textile industry: A review
Razzaq, S., Shahid, S., & Nawab, Y. (2024) · International Journal of Biological Macromolecules · doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.136791 · Cited by 26 · see citing works
From Waste to Value: Advances in Recycling Textile-Based PET Fabrics
Mohtaram, F., & Fojan, P. (2025) · Textiles · doi:10.3390/textiles5030024 · Cited by 24 · see citing works
Surface coated cellulose fibres as a biobased alternative to functional synthetic fibres
Wright, T., Mahmud‐Ali, A., & Bechtold, T. (2020) · Journal of Cleaner Production · doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.123857 · Cited by 21 · see citing works
Nason, A. K., Jerozal, R. T., Milner, P. J., et al. (2022) · ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering · doi:10.1021/acssuschemeng.2c05496 · Cited by 20 · see citing works
Baloyi, R. B., Sithole, B. B., & Chunilall, V. (2024) · Polymers · doi:10.3390/polym16111495 · Cited by 19 · see citing works
“…without separating polyester and cotton, as proposed by Zou et al. [4], while the other method involves recovering polyester or cotton individually based on their distinct chemical properties, including dissolution [5–7], hydrothermal separation [8–10], hydrolysis [11,12], and enzymolysis [13,14].”
MethodJain, A., & Connon, S. J. (2025) · Green Chemistry · doi:10.1039/d5gc01183c · Cited by 20 · see citing works
Wawer, J., Panuszko, A., Kozłowski, D., Juniewicz, J., Szymikowski, J., & Brodnicka, E. (2025) · Applied Sciences · doi:10.3390/app15105322 · Cited by 17 · see citing works
A facile approach towards recycling of polyurethane coated PET fabrics
Vaishali, M., Gopal, S., & Sreeram, K. J. (2024) · RSC Sustainability · doi:10.1039/d4su00136b · Cited by 17 · see citing works
Textiles production and end-of-life management options
Bartl, A. (2020) · Elsevier eBooks · doi:10.1016/b978-0-12-817880-5.00010-4 · Cited by 17 · see citing works
Khan, A. A., Iftikhar, K., Saleem, D., & Akhtar, S. (2022) · Journal of Natural Fibers · doi:10.1080/15440478.2022.2095551 · Cited by 18 · see citing works
“The aforementioned uses of polyester fiber and the problems associated with its manufacturing make it imperative to recycle the polyester fiber to curb the adverse environmental effects and meet the ever-increasing demands of the clothing market (Palme et al. 2017).”
BackgroundAnderson, L. B., Molloy, C., Pedrini, L., Martin, I. L., & Connon, S. J. (2024) · Green Chemistry · doi:10.1039/d4gc05070c · Cited by 16 · see citing works
Baloyi, R. B., Sithole, B. B., & Moyo, M. (2025) · Polymer Degradation and Stability · doi:10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2025.111261 · Cited by 16 · see citing works
Nahar, S. S., Rahaman, M. S., Samadder, R., et al. (2022) · Advances in Polymer Technology · doi:10.1155/2022/4325506 · Cited by 16 · see citing works
“Cotton is a natural linear cellulosic fiber that contributes to softness and high-water absorbency [8].”
BackgroundGadkari, R. R., Gupta, A., Teke, U., et al. (2021) · Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry · doi:10.1016/j.jiec.2021.04.031 · Cited by 16 · see citing works
Textile Recycling’s Hidden Problem: Surface-Modified Fiber Fragments Emitted at Every Stage
Manivannan, A. C., Panneerselvan, L., Kandaiah, R., Ravindran, A., Nachimuthu, G., Conaty, M., & Palanisami, T. (2025) · Environmental Science & Technology · doi:10.1021/acs.est.5c01854 · Cited by 16 · see citing works
Investigating how the dye colour is impacted when chemically separating polyester-cotton blends
Rosson, L., Wang, X., & Byrne, N. (2023) · Journal of the Textile Institute · doi:10.1080/00405000.2023.2201977 · Cited by 15 · see citing works
“Techniques used have involved either dissolution or depolymerisation of polyester whilst attempting to retain the cotton (Palme et al., 2017; Ling et al., 2019; Motte & Palme, 2019) or cotton dissolution/degradation whilst attempting to retain the polyester (Ouchi et al., 2010; De Silva et al.,…”
BackgroundLi, M., Chen, W., & Chen, S. (2024) · Chemical Engineering Journal · doi:10.1016/j.cej.2024.157778 · Cited by 15 · see citing works
Hou, W., Tunáková, V., Shi, H., et al. (2025) · Polymer Testing · doi:10.1016/j.polymertesting.2025.108874 · Cited by 13 · see citing works
Development and Production of Moderate-Thermophilic PET Hydrolase for PET Bottle and Fiber Recycling
Matsuzaki, T., Saeki, T., Yamazaki, F., et al. (2025) · ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering · doi:10.1021/acssuschemeng.5c01602 · Cited by 13 · see citing works
Hydrolytic-Assisted Fractionation of Textile Waste Containing Cotton and Polyester
Villar, L., Pita, M., González, B., et al. (2024) · Fibers and Polymers · doi:10.1007/s12221-024-00602-8 · Cited by 13 · see citing works
“Two main approaches can be found in literature: removing PET fibers from the textile blend by degradation on its monomers or maintaining PET and promoting cotton separation by its degradation or selective dissolution [4].”
InfluentialCan mixed plastics be recycled and upcycled without separation?
Pang, J. J. M., Lee, Y. H., Zhao, H., Ong, A., & Lim, J. Y. C. (2025) · Green Chemistry · doi:10.1039/d5gc03714j · Cited by 12 · see citing works
A greener approach for physical separation of polycotton textile waste
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A study on microwave-assisted chemical recycling of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) waste
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“The spectra clearly indicated that the targeted recycling products were selectively obtained as all peaks and integrals matched well with the expected results and the spectra were generally very clean indicating no contaminants or by-products [7, 23].”
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Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling in Textiles: Strategies, Limitations and Industrial Perspectives
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Decision-making Algorithm for Waste Recovery Options. Review on Textile Waste Derived Products
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An Observation on Dyeing Techniques of Polyester/Cotton Blended Fabrics Using Various Dyes
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Depolymerization of Polycotton‐Blended Fabrics: Challenges and Opportunities
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“Under these conditions, the PET component was completely degraded, and the cotton fibers were fully recovered, confirming the selective depolymerization of PET in blended textiles [45].”
Circular Economy in the Textile Industry: A Review of Technology, Practice, and Opportunity
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- Authors
- Palme, A., Peterson, A., de la Motte, H., Theliander, H., & Brelid, H.
- Affiliations
- Chalmers University of Technology (SE)
- Södra Skogsägarna (Sweden) (SE)
- Venue
- Textiles and Clothing Sustainability
- Published
- 2017-02-22
- Volume
- 3
- Issue
- 1
- ISSN
- 2197-9936 (ISSN-L)
- OpenAlex
- W2591428436
- Semantic Scholar
- 4a1bcf8c259373526921c5e098c894c4c4804678
- Cited by
- 155
- References
- 28
- Citations by year
- 2026: 17 · 2025: 33 · 2024: 35 · 2023: 19 · 2022: 22 · 2021: 12 · 2020: 9 · 2019: 5 · 2018: 3
- FWCI
- 2.66
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- hybrid
- doi.org
- Locations
- Textiles and Clothing Sustainability (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- Chalmers Research (Chalmers University of Technology) (submittedVersion)
- Diva portal (Dalarna University Library) (submittedVersion, other-oa)
- Chalmers Publication Library (Chalmers University of Technology) (submittedVersion)
- Funders
- MISTRA
- Topics
- Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Polymer crystallization and properties
- Physical Sciences › Environmental Science › Waste Management and Disposal › Waste Management and Recycling
- Physical Sciences › Environmental Science › Waste Management and Disposal › Recycling and Waste Management Techniques
- Keywords
- PET hydrolysis, textile recycling, chemical recycling, polyesters, terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol, phase transfer catalyst, NaOH hydrolysis, cellulose degradation, intrinsic viscosity
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