Cosmetic and Pharmaceutic Products with Selected Natural and Synthetic Substances for Melasma Treatment and Methods of Their Analysis
Open accessAbstract
Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing factors have been identified, namely exposure to ultraviolet and visible light, family predisposition, pregnancy, and the use of exogenous hormones. Since current beauty standards associate healthy skin with its flawless and uniform color, people strive to eliminate any unaesthetic discoloration. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing active substances with a whitening effect then become helpful. The most commonly used for this purpose are hydroquinone, arbutin, retinoids, organic acids (e.g., kojic, azelaic, and ellagic), and vitamins (B3, C, and E). However, the undesirable side effects they cause and the drive to replace synthetic chemicals with their natural counterparts have resulted in numerous reports on extracts of natural origin that exhibit skin-whitening effects. The purpose of this paper is to review the most recent scientific literature, which presents active substances of natural and synthetic origin with potential for the treatment of melasma. In addition, analytical techniques that can be used for qualitative and quantitative analysis of these substances present in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products will also be presented.
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Bioferments in cosmetic products may protect skin against pollution and oxidative stress.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Section 5 describes potential antioxidant activity in mushroom-derived cosmetic ingredients, and the References list a study of antioxidant activity in liquid-fermented mushroom cultures. Our copy does not say that bioferments in cosmetic products protect skin against pollution, nor does it directly establish protection against oxidative stress. (LLM, conf=0.72)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measuredBioferments in cosmetic products may whiten the skin.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Bioferments in cosmetic products may help rebuild the skin barrier.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Section 5 discusses fermented plant extracts as potential skin-whitening ingredients, but does not say they help rebuild the skin barrier. Searches for bioferments, barrier rebuilding, and barrier repair found no passage addressing that effect; page numbers were not supplied. (LLM, conf=0.75)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measuredBioferments in cosmetic products may support wound healing.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Section 5 discusses fermented plant materials as potential skin-whitening ingredients, but does not link them to wound healing. A search for wound healing found only an unrelated discussion of laser treatment in Section 3. No passage in our copy addresses whether bioferments in cosmetics support wound healing; page numbers were not available. (LLM, conf=0.75)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measuredBioferments in cosmetic products may reduce consequences of photodamage.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Section 5 reports that fermented plant extracts may inhibit melanogenesis and serve as skin-whitening ingredients in cosmetics. The passages on UV damage and photoprotection do not connect those effects to fermented ingredients or say that they reduce consequences of photodamage (searched: bioferments, fermented ingredients, photodamage, and UV damage). (LLM, conf=0.72)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measured
Bioferments in cosmetic products may reduce symptoms of acne.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Section 5 discusses fermented plant materials as potential skin-whitening ingredients, but does not connect them to reduced acne symptoms. A search of our copy for “acne” found no passage addressing that claim. (LLM, conf=0.76)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measuredBioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms.
“Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [92]
Section 5 discusses fermented plant extracts as potential skin-whitening ingredients, but does not say they stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms. Searches for that phrase and for fermented extracts supporting the skin barrier or innate defence found no passage addressing the attributed claim. (LLM, conf=0.72)
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References 207 · Cited by 19
Research works printed but not linked: 4
- Sagduyu, I.E.; Marakli, O.; Oraloglu, G.; Okut, E.B.; Unal, I. Comparison of 1064 nm Q-switched Nd:YAG laser and Jessner peeling in melasma treatment. Dermatol. Ther. 2022, 35, e15970. [CrossRef] · DOI
- Wawrzy ńczak, A.; Feliczak-Guzik, A.; Nowak, I. Nanosunscreens: From Nanoencapsulated to Nanosized Cosmetic Active Forms. In Nanobiomaterials in Galenic Formulations and Cosmetics; Grumezescu, A.M., Ed.; Elsevier: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2016; pp. 25-46. [CrossRef] · DOI · Paper page
- Schwartz, C.; Jan, A.; Zito, P.M. Hydroquinone. In StatPearls; StatPearls Publishing: Treasure Island, FL, USA, 2023. Available online: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK539693/ (accessed on 29 April 2023).
- Lee, C.-S.; Nam, G.; Bae, I.-H.; Park, J. Whitening efficacy of ginsenoside F1 through inhibition of melanin transfer in cocultured human melanocytes-keratinocytes and three-dimensional human skin equivalent. J. Ginseng Res. 2019, 43, 300.
- Authors
- Wawrzyńczak, A.
- Affiliations
- Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań (PL)
- Corresponding author
- Wawrzyńczak, Agata
- ORCID
- Wawrzyńczak, Agata
- Venue
- Cosmetics
- Publisher
- MDPI AG
- Published
- 2023-06-02
- Volume
- 10
- Issue
- 3
- Pages
- 86
- ISSN
- 2079-9284 (ISSN-L)
- OpenAlex
- W4379233096
- Cited by
- 19
- References
- 207
- Citations by year
- 2026: 6 · 2025: 8 · 2024: 5
- FWCI
- 2.75
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Licence
- Locations
- Cosmetics (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
- Topics
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Dermatologic Treatments and Research
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Keywords
- melasma, skin lightening, hyperpigmentation, cosmetics, pharmaceutical products, hydroquinone, arbutin, retinoids, kojic acid, azelaic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, natural extracts, analytical methods
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