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Cited by 221Natural Fiber Reinforced CompositesTextile materials and evaluationsDyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers

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Hemp Fibre Properties and Processing Target Textile: A Review

Open access
Zimniewska, Malgorzata·2022·Materials
DOI 10.3390/ma15051901PMC PMC8911747
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Abstract

Over the last several decades, Cannabis sativa L. has become one of the most fashionable plants. To use the hemp potential for the development of a sustainable textile bio-product sector, it is necessary to learn about the effect of the processes creating hemp’s value chain on fibre properties. This review presents a multi-perspective approach to industrial hemp as a resource delivering textile fibres. This article extensively explores the current development of hemp fibre processes including methods of fibre extraction and processing and comprehensive fibre characteristics to indicate the challenges and opportunities regarding Cannabis sativa L. Presented statistics prove the increasing interest worldwide in hemp raw material and hemp-based bio-products. This article discusses the most relevant findings in terms of the effect of the retting processes on the composition of chemical fibres resulting in specific fibre properties. Methods of fibre extraction include dew retting, water retting, osmotic degumming, enzymatic retting, steam explosion and mechanical decortication to decompose pectin, lignin and hemicellulose to remove them from the stem with varying efficiency. This determines further processes and proves the diversity of ways to produce yarn by employing different spinning systems such as linen spinning, cotton and wool spinning technology with or without the use of the decortication process. The aim of this study is to provide knowledge for better understanding of the textile aspects of hemp fibres and their relationship to applied technological processes.

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Crossref · 10.3390/ma15051901

Cites

83 of 85 references verified0 citation errors · 0 not checkable

Statistics

Figures

Figure 1 Forecast of industrial hemp market size in USA, by product, 2016–2027 (USD mln), based on [10].
Figure 1 Forecast of industrial hemp market size in USA, by product, 2016–2027 (USD mln), based on [10].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 2 Schematic performance of multidirectional potential of the use hemp raw materials, based on [12].
Figure 2 Schematic performance of multidirectional potential of the use hemp raw materials, based on [12].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 3 Hemp-based product sales by category, 2015, based on [13].
Figure 3 Hemp-based product sales by category, 2015, based on [13].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 4 Forecasted size of global hemp fibre market up to 2027 based on [15].
Figure 4 Forecasted size of global hemp fibre market up to 2027 based on [15].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 5 Cross-section of hemp stalk, based on [24].
Figure 5 Cross-section of hemp stalk, based on [24].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 6 Structure of the elementary hemp fibre. (top image) Longitudinal section; (bottom image) Cross-section of fibre [28].
Figure 6 Structure of the elementary hemp fibre. (top image) Longitudinal section; (bottom image) Cross-section of fibre [28].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 7 Schematic image of the section of a hemp cell wall; hemicellulose in green [29].
Figure 7 Schematic image of the section of a hemp cell wall; hemicellulose in green [29].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 8 Structural formula of cellulose [34].
Figure 8 Structural formula of cellulose [34].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 9 Most common molecular motif of hemicellulose [34].
Figure 9 Most common molecular motif of hemicellulose [34].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 10 Structural formula of galacturonic acid, the main component of pectin [34].
Figure 10 Structural formula of galacturonic acid, the main component of pectin [34].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 11 Mean straw yield determined for different type of hemp cultivars: USO 31, Dacia Secuieni, Bialobrzeskie, Futura 75, cultivated for three consecutive years, based on [47].
Figure 11 Mean straw yield determined for different type of hemp cultivars: USO 31, Dacia Secuieni, Bialobrzeskie, Futura 75, cultivated for three consecutive years, based on [47].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 12 Mean yield of long fibre determined for different type of hemp cultivars: USO 31, Dacia Secuieni, Bialobrzeskie, Futura 75, cultivated for three consecutive years, based on [47].
Figure 12 Mean yield of long fibre determined for different type of hemp cultivars: USO 31, Dacia Secuieni, Bialobrzeskie, Futura 75, cultivated for three consecutive years, based on [47].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 13 Fibre bundle quality parameters: (A)—fibre bundle length vs linear density, (B)—elongation at break vs tenacity. Tested hemp variety: USO 31, Bialobrzeskie, Santhica 27, Santhica 70, Futura 75, Dacia Secuieni and Carmagnola Selezionata [47].
Figure 13 Fibre bundle quality parameters: (A)—fibre bundle length vs linear density, (B)—elongation at break vs tenacity. Tested hemp variety: USO 31, Bialobrzeskie, Santhica 27, Santhica 70, Futura 75, Dacia Secuieni and Carmagnola Selezionata [47].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 14 Breaking tenacity of the fibres (cN/tex) measured for 12 fibre samples of each cultivar in 1996, based on [48].
Figure 14 Breaking tenacity of the fibres (cN/tex) measured for 12 fibre samples of each cultivar in 1996, based on [48].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 15 Effect of relative humidity of air on moisture content of hemp fibres based on [51].
Figure 15 Effect of relative humidity of air on moisture content of hemp fibres based on [51].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 16 Schematic value chains of hemp fibre extraction for textile purposes. (A) (green line)—traditional order of processes including straw retting, (B) (orange line)—with use of decortication of straw excluding retting with use of degumming, (C) (orange-brown line)—decortication of raw non-retted straw for technical use of the fibres, (D) (green-grey line)—with use of decortication following retting aimed at preparation of fibre for cottonisation or woolenisation (own elaboration).
Figure 16 Schematic value chains of hemp fibre extraction for textile purposes. (A) (green line)—traditional order of processes including straw retting, (B) (orange line)—with use of decortication of straw excluding retting with use of degumming, (C) (orange-brown line)—decortication of raw non-retted straw for technical use of the fibres, (D) (green-grey line)—with use of decortication following retting aimed at preparation of fibre for cottonisation or woolenisation (own elaboration).CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 17 Linear density (g/km) of hemp tow in relation to retting duration, based on [61].
Figure 17 Linear density (g/km) of hemp tow in relation to retting duration, based on [61].CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 18 Graphical performance of process chains possible to use for hemp yarn production. A—traditional flax/hemp spinning system, B—use of cotton spinning system for pre-treated fibres by decortication of retted fibres, C—use of wool spinning system, D—use of cotton spinning system for pre-treated hemp fibres by degumming of decortication of fibres (own elaboration).
Figure 18 Graphical performance of process chains possible to use for hemp yarn production. A—traditional flax/hemp spinning system, B—use of cotton spinning system for pre-treated fibres by decortication of retted fibres, C—use of wool spinning system, D—use of cotton spinning system for pre-treated hemp fibres by degumming of decortication of fibres (own elaboration).CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 19 Flow chart of traditional flax/hemp spinning system (own elaboration).
Figure 19 Flow chart of traditional flax/hemp spinning system (own elaboration).CC BY · PubMed Central
Figure 20 World production of all textile fibres in 2019 based on [115].
Figure 20 World production of all textile fibres in 2019 based on [115].CC BY · PubMed Central

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Citations

Cites

Show all 83 references

Research works printed but not linked: 12

  1. Steve, A. (2012). Building with Hemp, Seed Press. Available online: https://seedpress.ie/product/building-with-hemp.
  2. EIHA (2021, January 16–18). The European Hemp Industry Association. Proceedings of the 17th Hemp Conference, Duesseldorf, Germany. Available online: https://eiha.org/.
  3. Green, J. (2022, January 07). Annual Retails Sales for Hemp Products, 2015 Hemp Industries Association HIA Press Releases. 2015 Annual Retails Sales for Hemp Products, 9 May 2016. California, USA. Available online: https://theweedblog.com/hemp-info/2015-annual-retail-sales-for-hemp-products-estimated-at-573-million.
  4. Saake, B., and Lehnen, R. (2007). Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Wiley-VCH.
  5. Sarkanen, K.V., and Ludwig, C.H. (1971). Lignins: Occurrence, Formation, Structure and Reactions, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
  6. Thomas, S. (2002, January 10–11). Cellulose Fiber Reinforced Composites: New Challenges and Opportunities. Proceedings of the 4th International Wood and Natural Fibre Composites Symposium, Kassel, Germany.
  7. Frederick, T. (2004). Natural Fibres with low moisture sensitivity, Chapter 8. Natural Fibres, Plastics and Compositesedited, Springer.
  8. Fuller, 1946, The Retting of Hemp II. Controlled Retting of Hemp, Agricultural Experiment Station Iowa State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts, Soils Subsection Agronomy Section, Res. Bull., 1, 343
  9. Moliterni, V.M.C. (2021, January 13). Whole crop valorization and process innovation for a circular and sustainable hemp-based bioeconomy. Proceedings of the EIHA Hemp Conference 2021, Dusseldorf, Germany. Available online: https://eiha-conference.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/EIHA-Conference_2021.
  10. Nebel, 1995, New Processing Strategies for Hemp, J. Int. Hemp. Assoc., 2, 6
  11. Daenekindt, 2004, Flax, hemp, and allied fibres in the world, Euroflax Newsl., 21, 6
  12. Corona, A., and Birved, M. (September, January 31). Effect of the retting process on the life cycle performance of hemp fibre composites. Proceedings of the 15th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology, Rhodes, Greece.

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Metadata

Authors
Zimniewska, M.
Affiliations
Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants—National Research Institute, Wojska Polskiego 71b, 60-630 Poznan, Poland
ORCID
Zimniewska, Malgorzata
Venue
Materials
Publisher
MDPI AG
Published
2022-03-03
Volume
15
Issue
5
Pages
1901
ISSN
1996-1944 (ISSN-L)
DOI
10.3390/ma15051901
PMC
PMC8911747
OpenAlex
W4214822727
Cited by
214
References
83
Citations by year
2026: 44 · 2025: 60 · 2024: 49 · 2023: 53 · 2022: 8
FWCI
2.69
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
Locations
  • Materials (publishedVersion, cc-by)
  • PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by)
  • PubMed (publishedVersion)
  • DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
Topics
  • Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Natural Fiber Reinforced Composites
  • Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Textile materials and evaluations
  • Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers
Keywords
industrial hemp, Cannabis sativa, fiber extraction, retting, dew retting, water retting, enzymatic retting, steam explosion, fiber spinning, yarn spinning, bio-based textiles, sustainable textiles, fiber chemical composition

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