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Hemp Fibre Properties and Processing Target Textile: A Review
Open accessAbstract
Over the last several decades, Cannabis sativa L. has become one of the most fashionable plants. To use the hemp potential for the development of a sustainable textile bio-product sector, it is necessary to learn about the effect of the processes creating hemp’s value chain on fibre properties. This review presents a multi-perspective approach to industrial hemp as a resource delivering textile fibres. This article extensively explores the current development of hemp fibre processes including methods of fibre extraction and processing and comprehensive fibre characteristics to indicate the challenges and opportunities regarding Cannabis sativa L. Presented statistics prove the increasing interest worldwide in hemp raw material and hemp-based bio-products. This article discusses the most relevant findings in terms of the effect of the retting processes on the composition of chemical fibres resulting in specific fibre properties. Methods of fibre extraction include dew retting, water retting, osmotic degumming, enzymatic retting, steam explosion and mechanical decortication to decompose pectin, lignin and hemicellulose to remove them from the stem with varying efficiency. This determines further processes and proves the diversity of ways to produce yarn by employing different spinning systems such as linen spinning, cotton and wool spinning technology with or without the use of the decortication process. The aim of this study is to provide knowledge for better understanding of the textile aspects of hemp fibres and their relationship to applied technological processes.
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![Figure 1 Forecast of industrial hemp market size in USA, by product, 2016–2027 (USD mln), based on [10].](/paper-figures/75292a0902174a17953e938502f3108e/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-1.jpg)
![Figure 2 Schematic performance of multidirectional potential of the use hemp raw materials, based on [12].](/paper-figures/f82e0727b62847f48fb15a54ba7af041/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-2.jpg)
![Figure 3 Hemp-based product sales by category, 2015, based on [13].](/paper-figures/0b33addb3a3a4d5d82f63e21e8de148e/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-3.jpg)
![Figure 4 Forecasted size of global hemp fibre market up to 2027 based on [15].](/paper-figures/b0040e324c5a42e892744bc526dc8f69/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-4.jpg)
![Figure 5 Cross-section of hemp stalk, based on [24].](/paper-figures/fca019d6d40348c48472523cdb1378fa/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-5.jpg)
![Figure 6 Structure of the elementary hemp fibre. (top image) Longitudinal section; (bottom image) Cross-section of fibre [28].](/paper-figures/b2581f833ed54f2a92909133b41bc2aa/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-6.jpg)
![Figure 7 Schematic image of the section of a hemp cell wall; hemicellulose in green [29].](/paper-figures/c5a5fdc484004d7081a3c742830a6bb5/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-7.jpg)
![Figure 8 Structural formula of cellulose [34].](/paper-figures/9ba11d683a2f4b01896ef90383231aa1/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-8.jpg)
![Figure 9 Most common molecular motif of hemicellulose [34].](/paper-figures/43715579703d40beb99195026017ca62/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-9.jpg)
![Figure 10 Structural formula of galacturonic acid, the main component of pectin [34].](/paper-figures/62d8f817fc7849c2a6f9952c2a9be491/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-10.jpg)
![Figure 11 Mean straw yield determined for different type of hemp cultivars: USO 31, Dacia Secuieni, Bialobrzeskie, Futura 75, cultivated for three consecutive years, based on [47].](/paper-figures/bf13899a6d6244909967f6a6944da604/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-11.jpg)
![Figure 12 Mean yield of long fibre determined for different type of hemp cultivars: USO 31, Dacia Secuieni, Bialobrzeskie, Futura 75, cultivated for three consecutive years, based on [47].](/paper-figures/e08bc7479dfb4a92b2aef57148e53cc2/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-12.jpg)
![Figure 13 Fibre bundle quality parameters: (A)—fibre bundle length vs linear density, (B)—elongation at break vs tenacity. Tested hemp variety: USO 31, Bialobrzeskie, Santhica 27, Santhica 70, Futura 75, Dacia Secuieni and Carmagnola Selezionata [47].](/paper-figures/6e487549b669454bba46ef6b03ab4e74/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-13.jpg)
![Figure 14 Breaking tenacity of the fibres (cN/tex) measured for 12 fibre samples of each cultivar in 1996, based on [48].](/paper-figures/fab82a5a9cab421c990a672ad3973a7c/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-14.jpg)
![Figure 15 Effect of relative humidity of air on moisture content of hemp fibres based on [51].](/paper-figures/dda03596cbe642268c4048b3b9246c39/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-15.jpg)

![Figure 17 Linear density (g/km) of hemp tow in relation to retting duration, based on [61].](/paper-figures/f7db6ae5013c43c5a6c3157b082b928a/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-17.jpg)


![Figure 20 World production of all textile fibres in 2019 based on [115].](/paper-figures/797a8bd4d6f54fd49cc784d414caac0e/hemp-fibre-properties-and-processing-target-textile-a-review-figure-20.jpg)
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“Primary markets for bast fibers include textiles, construction, paper, and molded plastics in the automotive industry with a very large concentration in composite wood products (Kiruthika 2017; Zimniewska 2022).”
From A critical review of industrial fiber hemp anatomy, agronomic practices, and valorization into sustainable bioproducts (2025) · cites this paper as Zimniewska 2022
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“There are various ways to carry out the retting, and among them, dew retting and water retting are the most common (United States Department of Agriculture 2000; Zimniewska 2022).”
From A critical review of industrial fiber hemp anatomy, agronomic practices, and valorization into sustainable bioproducts (2025) · cites this paper as Zimniewska 2022
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In the citing paper
“Water retting, which immerses hemp stalks in large basins of water, is faster than field retting, taking only 5 to 10 days (Franck 2005; Zimniewska 2022).”
From A critical review of industrial fiber hemp anatomy, agronomic practices, and valorization into sustainable bioproducts (2025) · cites this paper as Zimniewska 2022
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“Retting (Fig. 6a) is a microbial process that breaks down the chemical bonds between bast fiber bundles and hurds. By degrading lignin or pectin; retting enables the separation of hurds from the bast fibers (Ehrensing 1998; Fortenbery and Bennett 2001; Zimniewska 2022).”
From A critical review of industrial fiber hemp anatomy, agronomic practices, and valorization into sustainable bioproducts (2025) · cites this paper as Zimniewska 2022
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Sirichaibhinyo, T., Thiangtham, S., Saito, N., & Ummartyotin, S. (2024) · Research Square · doi:10.21203/rs.3.rs-3977746/v1 · Cited by 1
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Ramesh, P., Mohit, H., Rangappa, S. M., Siengchin, S., & Vamsikrishna, V. (2023) · Elsevier eBooks · doi:10.1016/b978-0-323-95189-0.00012-3
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRES FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRY
ÇEVEN, E. K., & GÜNAYDIN, G. K. (2023) · International Conference on Innovative Academic Studies (ICIAS) · doi:10.59287/icias.1597
Toward Increasing Public Awareness of Cellulose-Based Textiles with Improved Sustainability
Stankovic, S. B. (2023) · Sustainable textiles · doi:10.1007/978-3-031-43879-0_3
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Serbanescu, C., & Tanase, G. (2023) · Romanian Journal of Ecology & Environmental Chemistry · doi:10.21698/rjeec.2023.203
Sirichaibhinyo, T., Thiangtham, S., Saito, N., & Ummartyotin, S. (2024) · Research Square · doi:10.21203/rs.3.rs-3941832/v1
Green Manufacturing of Lignocellulosic Fiber through Bacterial Degradation Process
Fu, Y. (2023) · University of North Texas Digital Library (University of North Texas) · doi:10.12794/metadc2257734
Radiolysis of composite polypropylene/hemp fibers
Głuszewski, W., Lewandowska, H., Malinowski, R., & Krasinska, O. (2024) · Nukleonika · doi:10.2478/nuka-2024-0007
Production and processing of natural fibres
Reddy, N., & Sahu, S. K. (2024) · Elsevier eBooks · doi:10.1016/b978-0-323-90392-9.00003-3
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Sett, S. K. (2024) · Elsevier eBooks · doi:10.1016/b978-0-443-13887-4.00012-0
Sarker, M. S., Huan, Y., Gan, L., & Zhang, S. (2024) · Polymers · doi:10.3390/polym16243473
A New Tool for Measuring the Diameter of Hemp Fiber
Tesema, A. F., Delhom, C. D., Turner, C., Sayeed, M. A., & Abidi, N. (2024) · Journal of Natural Fibers · doi:10.1080/15440478.2024.2447536
Zhang, Y., Liu, C., Xia, S., & Cameron, B. (2025) · doi:10.31274/itaa.18575
Nayak, R., & Nguyen, L. T. N. (2025) · Elsevier eBooks · doi:10.1016/b978-0-443-18872-5.00013-1
Poletanović, B., & Merta, I. (2025) · Rilem bookseries · doi:10.1007/978-3-031-92874-1_35
Ozone Treated Hemp Fiber Reinforced CompositesPreprint
Yiğit, İ., Özenç, A. A., Dinç, Z. S., & Eren, S. (2025) · SSRN Electronic Journal · doi:10.2139/ssrn.5358738
Research into Nanomodified Textile Materials with Multifunctional Properties
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Kılıç, İ., & Durak, A. (2025) · Kahramanmaraş Sütçü İmam Üniversitesi Mühendislik Bilimleri Dergisi · doi:10.17780/ksujes.1686823
O PAPEL DO DIREITO AMBIENTAL NA PROMOÇÃO DO USO DO CÂNHAMO EM PRÁTICAS AGRÍCOLAS SUSTENTÁVEIS
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Metadata
- Authors
- Zimniewska, M.
- Affiliations
- Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants—National Research Institute, Wojska Polskiego 71b, 60-630 Poznan, Poland
- Venue
- Materials
- Publisher
- MDPI AG
- Published
- 2022-03-03
- Volume
- 15
- Issue
- 5
- Pages
- 1901
- ISSN
- 1996-1944 (ISSN-L)
- PMC
- PMC8911747
- OpenAlex
- W4214822727
- Cited by
- 214
- References
- 83
- Citations by year
- 2026: 44 · 2025: 60 · 2024: 49 · 2023: 53 · 2022: 8
- FWCI
- 2.69
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Licence
- Locations
- Materials (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
- Topics
- Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Natural Fiber Reinforced Composites
- Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Textile materials and evaluations
- Physical Sciences › Materials Science › Polymers and Plastics › Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers
- Keywords
- industrial hemp, Cannabis sativa, fiber extraction, retting, dew retting, water retting, enzymatic retting, steam explosion, fiber spinning, yarn spinning, bio-based textiles, sustainable textiles, fiber chemical composition
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