Cited by 17Skin Protection and AgingContact Dermatitis and AllergiesAdvancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery

A Practical Approach for the In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Assessment of an Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Cream Enriched with Functional Compounds

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Zerbinati, Nicola, Sommatis, Sabrina, Maccario, Cristina, Di Francesco, Serena, Capillo, Maria Chiara, Grimaldi, Giulia, Rauso, Raffaele, Herrera, Martha +2 more·2021·Molecules

Abstract

(1) Background: Cosmeceuticals are topical products applied to human skin to prevent skin ageing and maintain a healthy skin appearance. Their effectiveness is closely linked to the compounds present in a final formulation. In this article, we propose a panel of in vitro tests to support the efficacy assessment of an anti-ageing cream enriched with functional compounds. (2) Methods: biocompatibility and the irritant effect were evaluated on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) and corneal epithelium (HCE) 3D models. After a preliminary MTT assay, normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) were used to evaluate the extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis, and interleukin-6 (IL-6) and metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production. (3) Results: data collected showed good biocompatibility and demonstrated the absence of the irritant effect in both 3D models. Therefore, we demonstrated a statistical increase in collagen and elastin productions in NHDF cells. In HaCaT cells, we highlighted an anti-inflammatory effect through a reduction in IL-6 levels in inflammatory stimulated conditions. Moreover, the reduction of MMP-1 production after UV-B radiation was demonstrated, showing significant photo-protection. (4) Conclusion: a multiple in vitro assays approach is proposed for the valid and practical assessment of the anti-ageing protection, anti-inflammatory and biocompatible claims that can be assigned to a cosmetic product containing functional compounds.

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Crossref · 10.3390/molecules26247592

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  • In HaCaT keratinocyte test systems, cell viability over 70-80% at 24 h should be considered nontoxic.

    “In the HaCaT keratinocyte test systems, results with cell viability of over 70-80% at 24 h should be considered nontoxic [30 - 32].”

    From Formulation development, physical stability, and preliminary safety screening of cosmetic emulsions containing banana peel extract (2026) · cites this paper as [31]

    Section 2.1 (page unavailable) reports that, after 24 hours, the authors selected cream concentrations that gave HaCaT cell viability ≥80%; Section 4.7 calls those concentrations non-cytotoxic. The paper does not establish a 70% cutoff or a general nontoxicity rule for HaCaT test systems. (LLM, conf=0.86)

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Research works printed but not linked: 1

  1. [12]Sajna K.V. White Biotechnology in Cosmetics Industrial Biorefineries & White Biotechnology Pandey A. Hofer R. Taherzadeh M. Nampoothiri K.M. Elsevier Amsterdam, The Netherlands 2015 607 652

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Authors
Zerbinati, N., Sommatis, S., Maccario, C., Di Francesco, S., Capillo, M. C., Grimaldi, G., Rauso, R., Herrera, M., Bencini, P. L., & Mocchi, R.
Affiliations
  • University of Insubria (IT)
  • University of Pavia (IT)
  • UB-CARE S.r.l.-Spin-Off, University of Pavia, 27100 Pavia, Italy
  • University of Campania "Luigi Vanvitelli" (IT)
  • Centro Avanzado de Dermatologia y Laser, San Pedro Sula 21104, Honduras
  • Istituto di Chirurgia e Laser-Chirurgia in Dermatologia (I.C.L.I.D.), 20121 Milan, Italy
Corresponding author
Mocchi, Roberto
Venue
Molecules
Publisher
MDPI AG
Published
2021-12-15
Volume
26
Issue
24
Pages
7592
ISSN
1420-3049 (ISSN-L)
OpenAlex
W4200520258
Cited by
16
References
18
Citations by year
2026: 1 · 2025: 5 · 2024: 7 · 2023: 2 · 2022: 1
FWCI
2.22
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Locations
  • Molecules (publishedVersion, cc-by)
  • PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by)
  • PubMed (publishedVersion)
  • DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
  • IrInSubria (University of Insubria) (submittedVersion, cc-by)
Topics
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Contact Dermatitis and Allergies
  • Life Sciences › Pharmacology, Toxicology and Pharmaceutics › Pharmaceutical Science › Advancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery
Keywords
cosmeceuticals, skin aging, reconstructed human epidermis, corneal epithelium, biocompatibility, irritancy, dermal fibroblasts, keratinocytes, extracellular matrix, interleukin-6, MMP-1, anti-inflammatory activity, functional compounds
MeSH terms
Cosmeceuticals, Cell Line, Fibroblasts, Humans, Skin Aging, Keratinocytes, Interleukin-6, Extracellular Matrix Proteins, Dermis, Matrix Metalloproteinase 1

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