A Practical Approach for the In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Assessment of an Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Cream Enriched with Functional Compounds
Open accessAbstract
(1) Background: Cosmeceuticals are topical products applied to human skin to prevent skin ageing and maintain a healthy skin appearance. Their effectiveness is closely linked to the compounds present in a final formulation. In this article, we propose a panel of in vitro tests to support the efficacy assessment of an anti-ageing cream enriched with functional compounds. (2) Methods: biocompatibility and the irritant effect were evaluated on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) and corneal epithelium (HCE) 3D models. After a preliminary MTT assay, normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) were used to evaluate the extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis, and interleukin-6 (IL-6) and metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production. (3) Results: data collected showed good biocompatibility and demonstrated the absence of the irritant effect in both 3D models. Therefore, we demonstrated a statistical increase in collagen and elastin productions in NHDF cells. In HaCaT cells, we highlighted an anti-inflammatory effect through a reduction in IL-6 levels in inflammatory stimulated conditions. Moreover, the reduction of MMP-1 production after UV-B radiation was demonstrated, showing significant photo-protection. (4) Conclusion: a multiple in vitro assays approach is proposed for the valid and practical assessment of the anti-ageing protection, anti-inflammatory and biocompatible claims that can be assigned to a cosmetic product containing functional compounds.
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In HaCaT keratinocyte test systems, cell viability over 70-80% at 24 h should be considered nontoxic.
“In the HaCaT keratinocyte test systems, results with cell viability of over 70-80% at 24 h should be considered nontoxic [30 - 32].”
From Formulation development, physical stability, and preliminary safety screening of cosmetic emulsions containing banana peel extract (2026) · cites this paper as [31]
Section 2.1 (page unavailable) reports that, after 24 hours, the authors selected cream concentrations that gave HaCaT cell viability ≥80%; Section 4.7 calls those concentrations non-cytotoxic. The paper does not establish a 70% cutoff or a general nontoxicity rule for HaCaT test systems. (LLM, conf=0.86)
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- Authors
- Zerbinati, N., Sommatis, S., Maccario, C., Di Francesco, S., Capillo, M. C., Grimaldi, G., Rauso, R., Herrera, M., Bencini, P. L., & Mocchi, R.
- Affiliations
- University of Insubria (IT)
- University of Pavia (IT)
- UB-CARE S.r.l.-Spin-Off, University of Pavia, 27100 Pavia, Italy
- University of Campania "Luigi Vanvitelli" (IT)
- Centro Avanzado de Dermatologia y Laser, San Pedro Sula 21104, Honduras
- Istituto di Chirurgia e Laser-Chirurgia in Dermatologia (I.C.L.I.D.), 20121 Milan, Italy
- Corresponding author
- Mocchi, Roberto
- Venue
- Molecules
- Publisher
- MDPI AG
- Published
- 2021-12-15
- Volume
- 26
- Issue
- 24
- Pages
- 7592
- ISSN
- 1420-3049 (ISSN-L)
- PMC
- PMC8708483
- OpenAlex
- W4200520258
- Cited by
- 16
- References
- 18
- Citations by year
- 2026: 1 · 2025: 5 · 2024: 7 · 2023: 2 · 2022: 1
- FWCI
- 2.22
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Licence
- Locations
- Molecules (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
- IrInSubria (University of Insubria) (submittedVersion, cc-by)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Contact Dermatitis and Allergies
- Life Sciences › Pharmacology, Toxicology and Pharmaceutics › Pharmaceutical Science › Advancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery
- Keywords
- cosmeceuticals, skin aging, reconstructed human epidermis, corneal epithelium, biocompatibility, irritancy, dermal fibroblasts, keratinocytes, extracellular matrix, interleukin-6, MMP-1, anti-inflammatory activity, functional compounds
- MeSH terms
- Cosmeceuticals, Cell Line, Fibroblasts, Humans, Skin Aging, Keratinocytes, Interleukin-6, Extracellular Matrix Proteins, Dermis, Matrix Metalloproteinase 1
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