New combination of ultraviolet absorbers in an oily emollient increases sunscreen efficacy and photostability
Open accessAbstract
INTRODUCTION: It is now recognized that to adequately protect skin from sun damage, sunscreens require a photostable combination of ultraviolet (UV) filters with a suitable level of UVA protection. The total amount of UV filters should be as low as possible to avoid adverse skin reactions, potential environmental impact, and to ensure acceptable texture for better application and usage. METHODS: A synergistic combination of UV filters was selected to obtain a high sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). An oily vehicle was then added to the formula to improve the solubility and the photostability of the lipophilic UV filters. RESULTS: The combination of filters, i.e., terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazin (BEMT), and butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (BMDM), obtained an elevated SPF as well as a high UVA-PF. Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (ILS), a derivative of a natural amino acid (sarcosine, also known as N-methylglycine) was introduced in this formulation in order to dissolve the oil-soluble UV absorbers and to photostabilize BMDM. The new sunscreen formulation obtained with this combination is photostable and contains a reduced amount of UV filters compared to other sunscreens with the same level of efficacy. CONCLUSION: This report described the steps resulting in the formulation of a new combination of UV filters in an oily emollient, which presents a high UVA-PF (UVA-PF = 38) and a SPF 50+, is photostable, and offers good protection against UV-induced biological damage.
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Vegetable oils, guava-fruit extract, rice bran and raspberry seeds, and red propolis extracts can increase the SPF of sunscreens.
“It was also possible to enhance the efficiency of UV filters by increasing the SPF of the sunscreens, using vegetable oils [111,112], guava-fruit extract [113,114], rice bran and raspberry seeds [115], and red propolis extracts [116].”
From UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects (2022) · cites this paper as [111]
The Results section ('SPF and UPA-PF of Sunscreens I and J'; page not provided) reports increased SPF in a formulation containing an oily vehicle. But the paper identifies that vehicle as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, a derivative of an amino acid, not a vegetable oil. It therefore supports SPF enhancement, but not the vegetable-oil example attributed to it. (LLM, conf=0.83)
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Cites
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- Authors
- L’Alloret, F., Candau, D., Seité, S., Pygmalion, M.-J., Ruiz, L., Josso, M., Meaudre, H., Gauchet, L., Pena, A.-M., & Colonna, A.
- Affiliations
- L'Oréal (France) (FR)
- Roche (France) (FR)
- Corresponding author
- Seité, Sophie
- Venue
- Dermatology and Therapy
- Published
- 2012-04-17
- Volume
- 2
- Issue
- 1
- Pages
- 4-4
- ISSN
- 2190-9172 (ISSN-L)
- 2193-8210
- PMC
- PMC3510392
- OpenAlex
- W1992972492
- Cited by
- 15
- References
- 16
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2023: 1 · 2022: 2 · 2021: 2 · 2019: 1 · 2018: 2 · 2016: 1 · 2015: 2 · 2014: 1 · 2013: 1
- FWCI
- 1.60
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Licence
- cc-by-nc
- Locations
- Dermatology and Therapy (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Funders
- L'Oreal USA
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Physical Sciences › Chemistry › Organic Chemistry › Photopolymerization techniques and applications
- Keywords
- sunscreen formulation, UV filters, photostability, UVA protection factor, sun protection factor, UVA-induced skin damage
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