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Cited by 389melanin and skin pigmentationSkin Protection and AgingDermatology and Skin Diseases

Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? 1

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Rawlings, A. V.·2006·International Journal of Cosmetic Science
DOI 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00302.x
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Abstract

Synopsis: People of skin of colour comprise the majority of the world's population and Asian subjects comprise more than half of the total population of the earth. Even so, the literature on the characteristics of the subjects with skin of colour is limited. Several groups over the past decades have attempted to decipher the underlying differences in skin structure and function in different ethnic skin types. However, most of these studies have been of small scale and in some studies interindividual differences in skin quality overwhelm any racial differences. There has been a recent call for more studies to address genetic together with phenotypic differences among different racial groups and in this respect several large‐scale studies have been conducted recently. The most obvious ethnic skin difference relates to skin colour which is dominated by the presence of melanin. The photoprotection derived from this polymer influences the rate of the skin aging changes between the different racial groups. However, all racial groups are eventually subjected to the photoaging process. Generally Caucasians have an earlier onset and greater skin wrinkling and sagging signs than other skin types and in general increased pigmentary problems are seen in skin of colour although one large study reported that East Asians living in the U.S.A. had the least pigment spots. Induction of a hyperpigmentary response is thought to be through signaling by the protease‐activated receptor‐2 which together with its activating protease is increased in the epidermis of subjects with skin of colour. Changes in skin biophysical properties with age demonstrate that the more darkly pigmented subjects retaining younger skin properties compared with the more lightly pigmented groups. However, despite having a more compact stratum corneum (SC) there are conflicting reports on barrier function in these subjects. Nevertheless, upon a chemical or mechanical challenge the SC barrier function is reported to be stronger in subjects with darker skin despite having the reported lowest ceramide levels. One has to remember that barrier function relates to the total architecture of the SC and not just its lipid levels. Asian skin is reported to possess a similar basal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) to Caucasian skin and similar ceramide levels but upon mechanical challenge it has the weakest barrier function. Differences in intercellular cohesion are obviously apparent. In contrast reduced SC natural moisturizing factor levels have been reported compared with Caucasian and African American skin. These differences will contribute to differences in desquamation but few data are available. One recent study has shown reduced epidermal Cathepsin L2 levels in darker skin types which if also occurs in the SC could contribute to the known skin ashing problems these subjects experience. In very general terms as the desquamatory enzymes are extruded with the lamellar granules subjects with lowered SC lipid levels are expected to have lowered desquamatory enzyme levels. Increased pores size, sebum secretion and skin surface microflora occur in Negroid subjects. Equally increased mast cell granule size occurs in these subjects. The frequency of skin sensitivity is quite similar across different racial groups but the stimuli for its induction shows subtle differences. Nevertheless, several studies indicate that Asian skin maybe more sensitive to exogenous chemicals probably due to a thinner SC and higher eccrine gland density. In conclusion, we know more of the biophysical and somatosensory characteristics of ethnic skin types but clearly, there is still more to learn and especially about the inherent underlying biological differences in ethnic skin types.

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  • The decreased susceptibility of dark skin to fine lines and wrinkles is mainly accredited to the dense collagen arrangement in the dermis of dark skin.

    “This variance is mainly accredited to the dense collagen arrangement in the dermis of dark skin.”

    From A Comprehensive Review of the Role of UV Radiation in Photoaging Processes Between Different Types of Skin (2025) · cites this paper as [60]

    The Racial differences in photoaging section reports less wrinkling in darker skin, but says the differences are most probably related to melanin content and composition. The Racial differences in epidermal-dermal function section likewise points to greater sun protection, not a dense arrangement of dermal collagen, as the likely explanation. (LLM, conf=0.87)

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  • Dark skin has a decreased susceptibility to the development of fine lines and wrinkles compared to light skin.

    “In contrast with light skin, dark skin has a decreased susceptibility to the development of fine lines and wrinkles.”

    From A Comprehensive Review of the Role of UV Radiation in Photoaging Processes Between Different Types of Skin (2025) · cites this paper as [60]

  • The dermis in dark skin comprises increased levels of type I and III collagen, in addition to increased activity of fibroblasts.

    “Studies have indicated that the dermis in dark skin comprises increased levels of type I and III collagen, in addition to the increased activity of fibroblasts [60,61].”

    From A Comprehensive Review of the Role of UV Radiation in Photoaging Processes Between Different Types of Skin (2025) · cites this paper as [60]

    The Racial differences in epidermal-dermal function section reports less dermal damage and better elastic recovery in darker skin, but does not discuss type I or III collagen levels or fibroblast activity. Searches for collagen and fibroblasts found only an age-related observation about collagen cross-links in Asian skin, not the claimed comparison. (LLM, conf=0.76)

    Experimental — accuracy not yet measured

  • Darker skin tends to have higher melanin content and more melanosomes than lighter skin, but melanocyte number does not differ.

    “Compared with lighter skin, darker skin tends to have higher melanin content and number of melanosomes, but no difference in the number of melanocytes is seen [5, 15, 23–26].”

    From Photoprotection for skin of color (2022) · cites this paper as [23]

  • Due to protection by epidermal melanin, individuals with SOC develop wrinkles from sun exposure later in life than those with lighter skin.

    “Due to protection by epidermal melanin, individuals with SOC develop wrinkles from sun exposure later in life than those with lighter skin [23, 52–55].”

    From Photoprotection for skin of color (2022) · cites this paper as [23]

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Research works printed but not linked: 8

  1. Pathak, M.A. Acute and chronic effects of the sun. In: Fitzpatricks dermatology in general medicine, Vol 1 (Freedberg, I.M., Eisen, A.Z., Wolff, K., et al. eds), pp. 1598-1608. McGraw-Hill New York, (1999).
  2. Declercq, L., Muizzuddin, N., Hellemans, L. et al. Adaptation response to human skin barrier to a hot and dry climate. J. Invest. Dermatol. 119, 716 (2002).
  3. Hellemans, L., Muizzuddin, N., Declercq, L. and Maes, D. Characterization of stratum corneum prop- erties in human subjects from a different genetic background. J. Invest. Dermatol. 124, 371 (2005).
  4. Estanislao, R., Suero, M., Galzote, C. et al. Character- ization of Asian skin through in-vivo instrumental and visual evaluations: influences of age, season and skin care habits, 6th Scientific Conference of the Asian Societies of Cosmetic Scientists. Proceedings, 263-269 (2003).
  5. Caspers, P.J., van Pol, A., Puppels, G.J., Riggs, W.M. and Rawlings, A.V. Assessment of the effects of sur- gical handwashing by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. J. Invest. Dermatol. 124, 354 (2005).
  6. Quinton, P.M., Elder, H.Y., McEwan Jenkinson, D. and Bovell, D.L. Structure and function of human sweat glands. In: Antiperspirants & deodorants, Chap- ter 2 (Laden, K., ed.), pp. 17-58 (1999).
  7. Grove, G.L., Soschin, D.M. and Kligman, A.M. Adverse subjective reaction to topical agents. In: Cutaneous toxicology (Drill, V.A. and Lazar, P., eds), pp. 200-210. Raven Press, New York (1984).
  8. Morimoto, T. Variations of sweating activity due to sex, age and race. In: The physiology & pathophysio- logy of the skin, Chapter 53 (Jarrett, A., ed.), pp. 1656-1666. Academic Press Inc. Ltd, London (1978).

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Authors
Rawlings, A. V.
Corresponding author
Rawlings, A. V.
ORCID
Rawlings, A. V.
Venue
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Publisher
Wiley
Published
2006-03-28
Volume
28
Issue
2
Pages
79-93
ISSN
  • 0142-5463 (ISSN-L)
  • 1468-2494
DOI
10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00302.x
OpenAlex
W2026209513
Cited by
389
References
65
Citations by year
2026: 14 · 2025: 28 · 2024: 45 · 2023: 23 · 2022: 25 · 2021: 20 · 2020: 12 · 2019: 23 · 2018: 22 · 2017: 18 · 2016: 25 · 2015: 20 · 2014: 12 · 2013: 23 · 2012: 15
FWCI
4.39
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
onlinelibrary.wiley.com/termsAndConditions#vor (vor)
Locations
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science (publishedVersion)
  • PubMed (publishedVersion)
Topics
  • Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Dermatology and Skin Diseases
Keywords
skin of color, skin anatomy, skin function, melanin, photoprotection, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, protease-activated receptor 2, stratum corneum, skin barrier function, ceramide, transepidermal water loss, natural moisturizing factor, desquamation

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