Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging
Abstract
Skin aging (intrinsic aging) and photoaging (extrinsic aging) involve a similar process that leads to the typical creased appearance of the skin, with the progressive loss of its physical and biologic properties. Photoaging is a premature skin aging caused by long-term exposure to the ultraviolet B radiations of the sun, and is more frequently associated to skin cancer than intrinsic aging. Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and penetrate the epidermis easily. Their biologically active forms can modulate gene expression by binding to nuclear receptors and then to specific DNA sequences. Because of their ability to modulate genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, they appear as good candidates to treat and prevent photoaging. Hyaluronate and collagen, two major constituents of the dermis, are progressively decreased and altered during aging. Various retinoids were shown to increase their synthesis and concentration in the skin and reduce their rate of degradation. Furthermore, retinoids share a common chemical structure containing several conjugated double bonds that enable them to trap free radicals and absorb UV radiations from the sun, thereby protecting cellular targets such as DNA, lipid membranes, or proteins by preventing direct photochemical damage or UV-induced oxidative stress. Therefore, retinoids may be beneficial in treating skin aging and photoaging because of their biologic, chemical, and physical properties, which act at several levels.
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Retinoids are responsible for the renewal of the epidermis through exfoliation of dead cells in the stratum corneum and proliferation of live cells in the epidermal layers.
“They are responsible for the renewal of the epidermis through their active role in the exfoliation of dead cells in the stratum corneum and the proliferation of live cells in the epidermal layers [28,34,35].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [28]
Retinoids reduce transepidermal water loss by strengthening the epidermal barrier.
“Retinoids also reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by strengthening the epidermal barrier [28,34,35].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [28]
After penetrating the epidermis, retinoids play a role in the release of transcription and growth factors.
“After penetrating the epidermis, retinoids play a role in the release of transcription and growth factors.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [28]
Vitamin A and all of its derivatives, applied systemically or topically, have a significant influence on skin health.
“Vitamin A and all of its derivatives, applied systemically or topically, have a significant influence on skin health.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [28]
Retinoids inhibit cell division during excessive proliferation and activate it when the process is too slow.
“Retinoids are a group of chemical compounds that inhibit cell division during excessive proliferation and activate it when the process is too slow.”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [28]
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Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review
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- Authors
- Sorg, O., Kuenzli, S., Kaya, G., & Saurat, J.
- Affiliations
- University Hospital of Geneva (CH)
- Corresponding author
- Sorg, Olivier
- Venue
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
- Publisher
- Wiley
- Published
- 2005-12
- Volume
- 4
- Issue
- 4
- Pages
- 237-244
- ISSN
- 1473-2130 (ISSN-L)
- 1473-2165
- OpenAlex
- W2028577041
- Cited by
- 50
- References
- 79
- Citations by year
- 2026: 1 · 2025: 2 · 2024: 2 · 2023: 1 · 2022: 3 · 2021: 9 · 2020: 6 · 2019: 3 · 2018: 4 · 2015: 2 · 2014: 4 · 2013: 2 · 2012: 2
- FWCI
- 1.27
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Molecular Biology › Retinoids in leukemia and cellular processes
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Facial Rejuvenation and Surgery Techniques
- Keywords
- retinoids, skin aging, photoaging, intrinsic aging, vitamin A derivatives, nuclear receptors, gene expression modulation, collagen synthesis, hyaluronic acid, free radical scavenging, UV protection, oxidative stress
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