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Cited by 390melanin and skin pigmentationDermatologic Treatments and ResearchMedicine and Dermatology Studies History

Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy: Hydroquinone and skin lightening preparations

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Draelos, Zoe Diana·2007·Dermatologic Therapy
DOI 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2007.00144.x
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Abstract

Skin lightening preparations are widely used in dermatology by persons of all Fitzpatrick skin types. Fitzpatrick skin types I-III require local pigment lightening for the treatment of hormonally induced melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne and trauma. Fitzpatrick skin types IV and darker have an even greater need for skin lightening for social reasons, as well as pigmentary changes that occur around the eyes, in the intertriginous areas, following dermatitis, or with acne and trauma. The gold standard dermatologic agent for skin lightening was hydroquinone, until regulatory agencies in Japan, Europe, and most recently in the United States questioned the safety of this substance. This has encouraged research into alternative agents to inhibit skin pigmentation such as retinoids, mequinol, azelaic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, aleosin, licorice extract, ascorbic acid, soy proteins, and N-acetyl glucosamine. The efficacy and safety of each of these ingredients is examined as possible topical alternatives to hydroquinone.

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  • Hydroquinone can be incorporated into skin lighteners in concentrations of 1.5%-2%.

    “It can be incorporated into skin lighteners in concentrations of 1.5%–2%. 65”

    From Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review. (2024) · cites this paper as [65]

    The Hydroquinone section describes skin-lightening formulations containing 2% hydroquinone and identifies 2% as the maximum concentration allowed in U.S. over-the-counter drugs. It does not give 1.5% as a formulation concentration, so the full stated range is not supported. (LLM, conf=0.85)

    Experimental — accuracy not yet measured

  • Arbutin is structurally related to hydroquinone, a well-known depigmenting agent for which safety and regulatory concerns have been raised.

    “Arbutin, a tyrosinase inhibitor used for skin whitening, is structurally related to hydroquinone, a well-known depigmenting agent for which safety and regulatory concerns have been raised [28].”

    From Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Melanogenic Effects of a Novel <i>Lactiplantibacillus plantarum</i> RKBP Isolated from Giant <i>Centella asiatica</i> (2026) · cites this paper as [28]

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Authors
Draelos, Z. D.
Affiliations
Wake Forest University Health Sciences (US)
Corresponding author
Draelos, Zoe Diana
ORCID
Draelos, Zoe Diana
Venue
Dermatologic Therapy
Publisher
Hindawi Limited
Published
2007-11-28
Volume
20
Issue
5
Pages
308-313
ISSN
1396-0296 (ISSN-L)
DOI
10.1111/j.1529-8019.2007.00144.x
OpenAlex
W1953070490
Cited by
390
References
35
Citations by year
2026: 14 · 2025: 25 · 2024: 23 · 2023: 20 · 2022: 35 · 2021: 32 · 2020: 29 · 2019: 21 · 2018: 26 · 2017: 25 · 2016: 18 · 2015: 19 · 2014: 20 · 2013: 19 · 2012: 14
FWCI
4.26
Type
journal article
Language
en
Open access
Licence
doi.wiley.com/10.1002/tdm_license_1.1 (tdm, 2834 d)
Locations
  • Dermatologic Therapy (publishedVersion)
  • PubMed (publishedVersion)
Topics
  • Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Dermatologic Treatments and Research
  • Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Medicine and Dermatology Studies History
Keywords
hydroquinone, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, Fitzpatrick skin type, retinoids, azelaic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, licorice extract, vitamin C, N-acetylglucosamine, drug safety, regulatory concerns
MeSH terms
Administration, Topical, Dermatologic Agents, Dose-Response Relationship, Drug, Esthetics, Female, Humans, Hydroquinones, Male, Melanosis, Retinoids, Severity of Illness Index, Treatment Outcome, Patient Satisfaction, Hyperpigmentation, Skin Care, Risk Assessment

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