Molecular basis of retinol anti‐ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo
Open accessAbstract
OBJECTIVE: Retinoic acid has been shown to improve the aged-appearing skin. However, less is known about the anti-ageing effects of retinol (ROL, vitamin A), a precursor of retinoic acid, in aged human skin in vivo. This study aimed to investigate the molecular basis of ROL anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. METHODS: Sun-protected buttock skin (76 ± 6 years old, n = 12) was topically treated with 0.4% ROL and its vehicle for 7 days. The effects of topical ROL on skin epidermis and dermis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in situ hybridization, Northern analysis, real-time RT-PCR and Western analysis. Collagen fibrils nanoscale structure and surface topology were analysed by atomic force microscopy. RESULTS: Topical ROL shows remarkable anti-ageing effects through three major types of skin cells: epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts. Topical ROL significantly increased epidermal thickness by stimulating keratinocytes proliferation and upregulation of c-Jun transcription factor. In addition to epidermal changes, topical ROL significantly improved dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) microenvironment; increasing dermal vascularity by stimulating endothelial cells proliferation and ECM production (type I collagen, fibronectin and elastin) by activating dermal fibroblasts. Topical ROL also stimulates TGF-β/CTGF pathway, the major regulator of ECM homeostasis, and thus enriched the deposition of ECM in aged human skin in vivo. 0.4% topical ROL achieved similar results as seen with topical retinoic acid, the biologically active form of ROL, without causing noticeable signs of retinoid side effects. CONCLUSION: 0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti-ageing effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin.
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Topical retinol improves the dermal extracellular matrix microenvironment (type I collagen, fibronectin, and elastin) and activates ECM-producing cells in aged skin.
“Topical retinol improves the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) microenvironment (type I collagen, fibronectin, and elastin) and activates ECM-producing cells in aged skin [32,38].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [38]
The anti-ageing effects of retinoids are mediated by epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts.
“The anti-ageing effects of retinoids are mediated by three major types of skin cells: epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts [38].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [38]
Activation of fibroblast production is stimulated through the TGF-β/CTGF pathway, the major regulator of ECM homeostasis.
“The activation of fibroblast production is stimulated through the TGF-β/CTGF pathway, the major regulator of ECM homeostasis [38].”
From Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review (2021) · cites this paper as [38]
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Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review
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“The activation of fibroblast production is stimulated through the TGF-β/CTGF pathway, the major regulator of ECM homeostasis [38].”
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- Authors
- Shao, Y., He, T., Fisher, G. J., Voorhees, J. J., & Quan, T.
- Affiliations
- University of Michigan (US)
- Corresponding author
- Quan, T.
- Venue
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science
- Publisher
- Wiley
- Published
- 2016-07-04
- Volume
- 39
- Issue
- 1
- Pages
- 56-65
- ISSN
- 0142-5463 (ISSN-L)
- 1468-2494
- PMC
- PMC5136519
- OpenAlex
- W2409978204
- Cited by
- 130
- References
- 32
- Citations by year
- 2026: 13 · 2025: 21 · 2024: 18 · 2023: 21 · 2022: 12 · 2021: 10 · 2020: 9 · 2019: 17 · 2018: 5 · 2017: 3 · 2016: 1
- FWCI
- 10.36
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- green
- www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- Locations
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Europe PMC (PubMed Central) (acceptedVersion)
- PubMed Central (acceptedVersion)
- Deep Blue (University of Michigan) (submittedVersion)
- Funders
- National Institutes of Health (AG019364, ES014697)
- Dermatology Foundation
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Facial Rejuvenation and Surgery Techniques
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Molecular Biology › TGF-β signaling in diseases
- Keywords
- retinol, vitamin A, anti-aging, skin aging, retinoic acid, keratinocyte proliferation, c-Jun, dermal fibroblasts, endothelial cells, extracellular matrix, type I collagen, fibronectin, elastin, epidermal thickness, collagen fibril structure
- MeSH terms
- Aging, Collagen, Humans, Skin, Vitamin A, Transforming Growth Factor beta, Microscopy, Atomic Force, Connective Tissue Growth Factor
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