Yearning for lightness: transnational circuits in the marketing and consumption of skin lighteners
Abstract
With the breakdown of traditional racial boundaries in many areas of the world, the widespread and growing consumption of skin-lightening products testifies to the increasing significance of colorism—social hierarchy based on gradations of skin tone within and between racial/ethnic groups. Light skin operates as a form of symbolic capital, one that is especially critical for women because of the connection between skin tone and attractiveness and desirability. Far from being an outmoded practice or legacy of past colonialism, the use of skin lighteners is growing fastest among young, urban, educated women in the global South. Although global in scope, the skin-lightening market is highly segmented by nation, culture, race, and class. This article examines the “yearning for lightness” and skin-lightening practices in various societies and communities and the role of transnational pharmaceutical and cosmetic corporations in fueling the desire for lighter skin through print, Internet, and television ads that link light skin with modernity, social mobility, and youth.
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Attempts to address colourism are often individualised and framed around "re-education" that focuses on broadening conceptions of beauty and desirability to include dark skin so that whiteness and light skin are no longer viewed as the "dominant standard."
“As Glenn (2008, p. 298) argued, attempts to address colourism are often individualised and framed around “re-education” that focuses on broadening conceptions of beauty and desirability to include dark skin so that whiteness and light skin are no longer viewed as the “dominant standard.””
From Skin shade and relationships: how colourism pits Black and mixed Black-White women against each other (2024) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Focusing only on individual consciousness and motives distracts attention from the very powerful economic forces that help to create the yearning for lightness and that offer to fulfil the yearning at a steep price.
“As Glenn (2008, p. 298) argues, “focusing only on individual consciousness and motives distracts attention from the very powerful economic forces that help to create the yearning for lightness and that offer to fulfil the yearning at a steep price.””
From Skin shade and relationships: how colourism pits Black and mixed Black-White women against each other (2024) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Multinational corporations profit from the lucrative global skin lightening industry and are therefore invested in perpetuating colourism in order to create and sustain demand for products that depend on inequities and insecurities created by colourism.
“Multinational corporations profit from the lucrative global skin lightening industry and are therefore invested in perpetuating colourism in order to create and sustain demand for products that depend on inequities and insecurities created by colourism (Glenn, 2008).”
From Skin shade and relationships: how colourism pits Black and mixed Black-White women against each other (2024) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Women with dark skin are at a disadvantage because skin shade is central to assessments of beauty, with light skin operating as a form of symbolic capital that is converted into economic capital and advantage in the 'heterosexual market'.
“However, women with dark skin are at a disadvantage because skin shade is central to assessments of beauty, with light skin operating as a form of symbolic capital that is converted into economic capital and advantage in the ' heterosexual market ' (Glenn, 2008; Jha and Adelman, 2009).”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Light skin signified affluence in India (as in other countries), in contrast to the darker skin of the poor or working classes, which resulted from labouring outside.
“She suggests that light skin signified affluence in India (as in other countries -Hunter, 2007), in contrast to the darker skin of the poor or working classes, which resulted from labouring outside.”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Glenn argues that a precolonial history does not nullify the contribution of colonialism in that the skin shade hierarchies established in areas colonized by Europeans cemented and generalized the privilege attached to light skin.
“Glenn (2008: 284), however, argues that a precolonial history does not nullify the contribution of colonialism in that the skin shade hierarchies ' established in areas colonized by Europeans cemented and generalized the privilege attached to light skin ' .”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008:284
The global politics of beauty promulgates an aesthetic and hierarchy born of 'white supremacist thinking' and a 'white is right' ideology that is bolstered by the construction of an inferior dark other.
“The global politics of beauty promulgates an aesthetic and hierarchy born of ' white supremacist thinking ' (hooks, 2003) and a ' ' white is right ' ideology ' (Glenn, 2008) that is bolstered by the construction of an inferior dark other.”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Glenn argues that skin shade variation within castes makes it hard to support the claim that the caste system in India promotes colourism.
“However, Glenn (2008) argues that skin shade variation within castes makes it hard to support this claim.”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
Women of colour are burdened with the oppressiveness of a hegemonic beauty ideal that excludes the majority of the world's population, and are simultaneously exploited by multinational corporations determined to turn their vulnerabilities into financial gain.
“Women of colour are burdened with the oppressiveness of a hegemonic beauty ideal that excludes the majority of the world ' s population, and are simultaneously exploited by multinational corporations determined to turn their vulnerabilities into financial gain (Glenn, 2008).”
From Colourism and the Politics of Beauty (2014) · cites this paper as Glenn, 2008
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- Authors
- Glenn, E. N.
- Affiliations
- University of California, Berkeley (US)
- Corresponding author
- Glenn, Evelyn Nakano
- Venue
- Gender & Society
- Publisher
- SAGE Publications
- Published
- 2008-02-11
- Volume
- 22
- Issue
- 3
- Pages
- 281-302
- ISSN
- 0891-2432 (ISSN-L)
- 1552-3977
- OpenAlex
- W2143759393
- Cited by
- 354
- References
- 34
- Citations by year
- 2026: 34 · 2025: 25 · 2024: 10 · 2023: 9 · 2022: 47 · 2021: 38 · 2020: 22 · 2019: 18 · 2018: 24 · 2017: 24 · 2016: 16 · 2015: 16 · 2014: 26 · 2013: 11 · 2012: 13
- FWCI
- 21.85
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Gender & Society (publishedVersion)
- Topics
- Social Sciences › Business, Management and Accounting › Marketing › Consumer Perception and Purchasing Behavior
- Social Sciences › Gender Studies › Media, Gender, and Advertising
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Keywords
- skin whitening products, colorism, skin tone, symbolic capital, women, beauty standards, advertising, multinational corporations, cosmetic industry, Global South, modernity, social mobility, race and gender
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