Traditional Cheeses: Rich and Diverse Microbiota with Associated Benefits
Abstract
The risks and benefits of traditional cheeses, mainly raw milk cheeses, are rarely set out objectively, whence the recurrent confused debate over their pros and cons. This review starts by emphasizing the particularities of the microbiota in traditional cheeses. It then describes the sensory, hygiene, and possible health benefits associated with traditional cheeses. The microbial diversity underlying the benefits of raw milk cheese depends on both the milk microbiota and on traditional practices, including inoculation practices. Traditional know-how from farming to cheese processing helps to maintain both the richness of the microbiota in individual cheeses and the diversity between cheeses throughout processing. All in all more than 400 species of lactic acid bacteria, Gram and catalase-positive bacteria, Gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and moulds have been detected in raw milk. This biodiversity decreases in cheese cores, where a small number of lactic acid bacteria species are numerically dominant, but persists on the cheese surfaces, which harbour numerous species of bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Diversity between cheeses is due particularly to wide variations in the dynamics of the same species in different cheeses. Flavour is more intense and rich in raw milk cheeses than in processed ones. This is mainly because an abundant native microbiota can express in raw milk cheeses, which is not the case in cheeses made from pasteurized or microfiltered milk. Compared to commercial strains, indigenous lactic acid bacteria isolated from milk/cheese, and surface bacteria and yeasts isolated from traditional brines, were associated with more complex volatile profiles and higher scores for some sensorial attributes. The ability of traditional cheeses to combat pathogens is related more to native antipathogenic strains or microbial consortia than to natural non-microbial inhibitor(s) from milk. Quite different native microbiota can protect against Listeria monocytogenes in cheeses (in both core and surface) and on the wooden surfaces of traditional equipment. The inhibition seems to be associated with their qualitative and quantitative composition rather than with their degree of diversity. The inhibitory mechanisms are not well elucidated. Both cross-sectional and cohort studies have evidenced a strong association of raw-milk consumption with protection against allergic/atopic diseases; further studies are needed to determine whether such association extends to traditional raw-milk cheese consumption. In the future, the use of meta-omics methods should help to decipher how traditional cheese ecosystems form and function, opening the way to new methods of risk-benefit management from farm to ripened cheese.
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Specific cheese microbes or consortia are adapted to various abiotic stresses, including changes in pH, salinity, temperature, and moisture, as well as biotic stresses like competition and invasion resistance, both at the individual and community levels.
“Specific cheese microbes or consortia are adapted to various abiotic stresses, including changes in pH, salinity, temperature, and moisture, as well as biotic stresses like competition and invasion resistance, both at the individual and community levels [46,53,59,61,65,71,73,75,76,77,78].”
From Microbiota of Cheese Ecosystems: A Perspective on Cheesemaking (2025) · cites this paper as [77]
Artisanal cheeses are distinguished by their flavor characteristics and are generally associated with a particular region or country.
“They are distinguished by their flavor characteristics, and are generally associated to a particular region or country [29].”
From Lactic Acid Bacteria in Raw-Milk Cheeses: From Starter Cultures to Probiotic Functions (2022) · cites this paper as [29]
The sensory characteristics of cheese are a consequence of the complex LAB community responsible for fermentation throughout the production process.
“The sensory characteristics of cheese are also a consequence of the complex LAB community responsible for fermentation throughout the production process [29].”
From Lactic Acid Bacteria in Raw-Milk Cheeses: From Starter Cultures to Probiotic Functions (2022) · cites this paper as [29]
In long-ripened cheeses, the autolysis of SLAB can provide sufficient nutrients to support the growth of non-starter LAB (NSLAB) in vitro.
“In long-ripened cheeses, it has also been observed that the autolysis of SLAB can provide sufficient nutrients to support the growth of non-starter LAB (NSLAB) in vitro [18,53,73,77,93,99,100,101,102].”
From Microbiota of Cheese Ecosystems: A Perspective on Cheesemaking (2025) · cites this paper as [77]
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Grana Padano cheese whey starters: Microbial composition and strain distribution
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Stability of the Biodiversity of the Surface Consortia of Gubbeen, a Red-Smear Cheese
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Diversity of lactic acid bacteria in two Flemish artisan raw milk Gouda-type cheeses
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Pathogenomics of Listeria spp.
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Diversity of lactic acid bacteria population in ripened Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
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Pecorino Crotonese cheese: Study of bacterial population and flavour compounds
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Do milking practices influence the bacterial diversity of raw milk?
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“…microbiota from the milk or from the cheese-making environment, e.g. halophilic bacteria (Ishikawa et al., 2007) possibly originating from salt or brine, may adapt to the cheese ecosystem (Monnet et al., 2010b; Suzzi, 2011) and outcompete adjunct strains (Goerges et al., 2008; Gori et al., 2013).”
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Characterisation of yeast flora isolated from an artisanal Portuguese ewes’ cheese
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“Ingestion of large quantities of LAB (independently of milk products) may indeed have a positive effect on bowel movements during antibiotherapy and on the enteric microbiota in healthy volunteers (Koning et al., 2008; Madden et al., 2005; Plummer et al., 2005).”
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Effects of probiotics on the composition of the intestinal microbiota following antibiotic therapy
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“Ingestion of large quantities of LAB (independently of milk products) may indeed have a positive effect on bowel movements during antibiotherapy and on the enteric microbiota in healthy volunteers (Koning et al., 2008; Madden et al., 2005; Plummer et al., 2005).”
BackgroundControl of Listeria monocytogenes in raw-milk cheeses
Millet, L., Saubusse, M., Didienne, R., Tessier, L., & Montel, M. (2006) · International Journal of Food Microbiology · doi:10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2005.11.004 · Cited by 84 · see citing works
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Self-citationSecondary and Adjunct Cultures
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Sources of Clostridia in Raw Milk on Farms
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Surface microbial consortia from Livarot, a French smear-ripened cheese
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Genetic Features of Resident Biofilms Determine Attachment of Listeria monocytogenes
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A review of the molecular approaches to investigate the diversity and activity of cheese microbiota
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Production of volatile compounds in liquid cultures by six strains of coryneform bacteria
Jollivet, N., B�zenger, M.-C., Vayssier, Y., & Belin, J.-M. (1992) · Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology · doi:10.1007/bf00172196 · Cited by 74 · see citing works
Jollivet, N., Chataud, J., Vayssier, Y., Bensoussan, M., & Belin, J.-M. (1994) · Journal of Dairy Research · doi:10.1017/s0022029900028259 · Cited by 74 · see citing works
Lipolysis in Cheddar Cheese Made from Raw, Thermized, and Pasteurized Milks
Hickey, D. K., Kilcawley, K. N., Beresford, T. P., & Wilkinson, M. G. (2007) · Journal of Dairy Science · doi:10.3168/jds.s0022-0302(07)72607-3 · Cited by 74 · see citing works
Cretenet, M., Nouaille, S., Thouin, J., Rault, L., Stenz, L., François, P., Hennekinne, J., Piot, M., Maillard, M.-B., Fauquant, J., et al. (2011) · Environmental Microbiology Reports · doi:10.1111/j.1758-2229.2010.00230.x · Cited by 73 · see citing works
The role of the nonstarter lactic acid bacteria in Cheddar cheese ripening
Banks, J. M., & Williams, A. G. (2004) · International Journal of Dairy Technology · doi:10.1111/j.1471-0307.2004.00150.x · Cited by 73 · see citing works
Sørensen, L. M., Gori, K., Petersen, M. A., Jespersen, L., & Arneborg, N. (2011) · International Dairy Journal · doi:10.1016/j.idairyj.2011.06.005 · Cited by 72 · see citing works
Natural Whey Starter for Parmigiano Reggiano: Culture-Independent Approach
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Crete: does farming explain urban and rural differences in atopy?
Barnes, M., Cullinan, P., Athanasaki, P., MacNeill, S., Hole, A. M., Harris, J., Kalogeraki, S., Chatzinikolaou, M., Drakonakis, N., Bibaki‐Liakou, V., et al. (2001) · Clinical & Experimental Allergy · doi:10.1046/j.1365-2222.2001.01240.x · Cited by 71 · see citing works
Casalta, E., Sorba, J. M., Aigle, M., & Ogier, J.-C. (2009) · International Journal of Food Microbiology · doi:10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2009.05.022 · Cited by 71 · see citing works
Bouton, Y., Guyot, P., Beuvier, É., et al. (2002) · International Journal of Food Microbiology · doi:10.1016/s0168-1605(02)00006-5 · Cited by 71 · see citing works
Flagged first, then by citations
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Role of the gut microbiota in nutrition and health
Valdes, A. M., Walter, J., Segal, E., & Spector, T. D. (2018) · BMJ · doi:10.1136/bmj.k2179 · Cited by 2,375 · see citing works
Fermented Foods as Experimentally Tractable Microbial Ecosystems
Wolfe, B. E., & Dutton, R. J. (2015) · Cell · doi:10.1016/j.cell.2015.02.034 · Cited by 386 · see citing works
The food-gut axis: lactic acid bacteria and their link to food, the gut microbiome and human health
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Lactic Acid Bacteria in Raw-Milk Cheeses: From Starter Cultures to Probiotic Functions
Coelho, M. C., Malcata, F. X., & Silva, C. C. G. (2022) · Foods · doi:10.3390/foods11152276 · Cited by 276 · see citing works
“They are distinguished by their flavor characteristics, and are generally associated to a particular region or country [29].”
BackgroundGobbetti, M., De Angelis, M., Di Cagno, R., Mancini, L., & Fox, P. F. (2015) · Trends in Food Science & Technology · doi:10.1016/j.tifs.2015.07.016 · Cited by 217 · see citing works
De Filippis, F., Genovese, A., Ferranti, P., Gilbert, J. A., & Ercolini, D. (2016) · Scientific Reports · doi:10.1038/srep21871 · Cited by 196 · see citing works
Metagenomic analysis of a Mexican ripened cheese reveals a unique complex microbiota
Escobar-Zepeda, A., Sanchez-Flores, A., & Quirasco Baruch, M. (2016) · Food Microbiology · doi:10.1016/j.fm.2016.02.004 · Cited by 174 · see citing works
Drivers that establish and assembly the lactic acid bacteria biota in cheeses.
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Franciosi, E., Carafa, I., Nardin, T., Schiavon, S., Poznanski, E., Cavazza, A., Larcher, R., & Tuohy, K. M. (2015) · BioMed Research International · doi:10.1155/2015/625740 · Cited by 94 · see citing works
Characterization of the bacterial biodiversity in Pico cheese (an artisanal Azorean food)
Riquelme, C., Câmara, S., Enes Dapkevicius, M. D. L. N., Vinuesa, P., da Silva, C. C. G., Malcata, F. X., & Rego, O. A. (2015) · International Journal of Food Microbiology · doi:10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2014.09.031 · Cited by 87 · see citing works
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Choi, J., In Lee, S., Rackerby, B., Frojen, R., Goddik, L., Ha, S.-D., & Park, S. H. (2020) · Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology · doi:10.1007/s00253-020-10651-7 · Cited by 60 · see citing works
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“This is evidence of the high research interest of the European Institutions in the dairy sector, reflecting the historic tradition of cheesemaking of the continent (Montel et al., 2014).”
BackgroundHow the fewest become the greatest. L. casei’ s impact on long ripened cheeses.
Bottari, B., Levante, A., Neviani, E., & Gatti, M. (2018) · Frontiers in Microbiology · doi:10.3389/fmicb.2018.02866 · Cited by 45 · see citing works
Vandera, E., Lianou, A., Kakouri, A., Feng, J., Koukkou, A.-I., & Samelis, J. (2017) · Journal of Food Protection · doi:10.4315/0362-028x.jfp-16-082 · Cited by 44 · see citing works
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“In long-ripened cheeses, it has also been observed that the autolysis of SLAB can provide sufficient nutrients to support the growth of non-starter LAB (NSLAB) in vitro [18,53,73,77,93,99–102].”
Metabolic Gene-Targeted Monitoring of Non-Starter Lactic Acid Bacteria during Cheese Ripening
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Microbiome and -omics application in food industry
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Camargo, A. C., Costa, E. A., Fusieger, A., Freitas, R. D., Nero, L. A., & Carvalho, A. F. D. (2021) · Food Research International · doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2020.109803 · Cited by 27 · see citing works
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Biolcati, F., Andrighetto, C., Bottero, M. T., & Dalmasso, A. (2020) · Journal of Dairy Science · doi:10.3168/jds.2019-17451 · Cited by 26 · see citing works
Lactic microbiota of the minas artisanal cheese produced in the serro region, Minas Gerais, Brazil
Nero, L. A., Andretta, M., Almeida, T. T., Ferreira, L. R., Camargo, A. C., Yamatogi, R. S., Carvalho, A. F., & Call, D. R. (2021) · LWT · doi:10.1016/j.lwt.2021.111698 · Cited by 26 · see citing works
Biolcati, F., Ferrocino, I., Bottero, M. T., & Dalmasso, A. (2022) · Frontiers in Microbiology · doi:10.3389/fmicb.2021.776862 · Cited by 21 · see citing works
Biolcati, F., Ferrocino, I., Bottero, M. T., & Dalmasso, A. (2020) · Journal of Dairy Science · doi:10.3168/jds.2020-18208 · Cited by 20 · see citing works
Neviani, E., Levante, A., & Gatti, M. (2024) · Fermentation · doi:10.3390/fermentation10040186 · Cited by 17 · see citing works
Psomas, E., Sakaridis, I., Boukouvala, E., Karatzia, M.-A., Ekateriniadou, L. V., & Samouris, G. (2023) · Foods · doi:10.3390/foods12020370 · Cited by 15 · see citing works
Comprehensive profiling of smoked cheese from raw goat's milk handcrafted in Lower Silesia (Poland)
Cardinali, F., Rampanti, G., Harasym, J., Lucci, P., Ferrocino, I., Pacetti, D., Fanesi, B., Milanović, V., Garofalo, C., Petruzzelli, A., et al. (2025) · Food Research International · doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2025.116398 · Cited by 6 · see citing works
- Authors
- Montel, M.-C., Buchin, S., Mallet, A., Delbes-Paus, C., Vuitton, D. A., Desmasures, N., & Berthier, F.
- Affiliations
- Institut National de Recherche pour l'Agriculture, l'Alimentation et l'Environnement (FR)
- Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (FR)
- Normandie Université (FR)
- Aliments Bioprocédés Toxicologie Environnements (FR)
- Corresponding author
- Montel, Marie-Christine
- Venue
- International Journal of Food Microbiology
- Publisher
- Elsevier BV
- Published
- 2014-05
- Volume
- 177
- Pages
- 136-154
- ISSN
- 0168-1605 (ISSN-L)
- OpenAlex
- W2067039644
- Cited by
- 665
- References
- 354
- Citations by year
- 2026: 49 · 2025: 60 · 2024: 49 · 2023: 60 · 2022: 73 · 2021: 69 · 2020: 68 · 2019: 50 · 2018: 62 · 2017: 41 · 2016: 40 · 2015: 29 · 2014: 14
- FWCI
- 5.14
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- International Journal of Food Microbiology (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- HAL (submittedVersion)
- Topics
- Life Sciences › Agricultural and Biological Sciences › Food Science › Probiotics and Fermented Foods
- Life Sciences › Agricultural and Biological Sciences › Food Science › Fermentation and Sensory Analysis
- Life Sciences › Agricultural and Biological Sciences › Food Science › Food and Agricultural Sciences
- Keywords
- traditional cheese, raw milk cheese, cheese microbiota, lactic acid bacteria, microbial diversity, cheese flavor, sensory properties, cheese hygiene, health benefits, Listeria monocytogenes, antimicrobial activity, microbial consortia, allergic diseases, atopic diseases, indigenous strains, risk-benefit assessment
- MeSH terms
- Animals, Cheese, Environmental Microbiology, Food Microbiology, Milk, Sensation, Biodiversity, Microbiota
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