Unlocking the Potential of Fermentation in Cosmetics: A Review

Pérez-Rivero, Cristina; López-Gómez, José Pablo

doi:10.3390/fermentation9050463

Cited by 73Microbial Metabolic Engineering and BioproductionBiochemical and biochemical processesMicrobial bioremediation and biosurfactants

Unlocking the Potential of Fermentation in Cosmetics: A Review

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Pérez-Rivero, Cristina, López-Gómez, José Pablo·2023·Fermentation

DOI 10.3390/fermentation9050463

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Abstract

The cosmetic segment is a rapidly growing industry that has been challenged in recent years due to the origin and impact of its ingredients and manufacturing techniques. With a focus on reducing carbon dioxide emissions and improving the degradability of products, many conventional ingredients are being dismissed to meet more exigent regulations and consumer ethical demands. Biotechnology, and fermentation as the core technology, is a solution to support and drive more sustainable growth for the cosmetic industry. This review presents the latest research and development in fermentation applied to cosmetics and showcases multiple examples throughout all classes of ingredients: from functional compounds, such as oil and surfactants, to multi-faceted molecules with a wide spectrum of formulations and skin benefits derived from their emulsifying, antimicrobial or antioxidant properties. The bottlenecks associated with the commercialization of such ingredients, together with successful examples, are also discussed. The shift towards a bio-based beauty industry requires a combination of technical, regulatory and marketing efforts. Fermentation strategies to better utilize low-cost substrates and optimize microorganisms and processes will reduce overall costs, reducing the price gap with traditional methods of production. The testing, standardization and regulation of these new ingredients need to catch up with the fast research happening in the field. Finally, consumer communication is key to achieve a successful introduction of biotech ingredients in the market.

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There are already examples of collaboration between the food industry and cosmetic manufacturers which promote the circular economy and reducing agri-food waste.
“Nevertheless, according to the literature review by Pérez-Rivero et al. there are already examples of collaboration between the food industry and cosmetic manufactures which promote the circular economy and reducing agri-food waste [27].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [27]
Section 4.2 (Fatty Acids; page unavailable) reports that NoPalm Ingredients uses agricultural waste and has a collaboration agreement with Colgate-Palmolive. It also describes support from the Doehler group for a company making ingredients from food waste for food and cosmetics. These examples support the waste-reduction and cross-sector theme, but the passage does not explicitly identify a collaboration directly between a food-industry company and a cosmetic manufacturer. (LLM, conf=0.84)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measured
Fermentation-derived ingredients use renewable substrates, require mild processing conditions, reduce waste, and yield biodegradable products compared to conventional chemical synthesis.
“First of all, the fermentation process uses renewable sources as substrates and requires mild processing conditions. Moreover, it reduces waste, and the obtained products are biodegradable [27,99].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [27]
Section 1 states that fermentation uses renewable feedstocks and normally mild operating conditions, giving it a lower environmental footprint than conventional petrochemical synthesis. Section 1 also says feedstocks can include other industries’ wastes, and Section 6 identifies biodegradable biosurfactants. The review does not establish that fermentation generally reduces waste or that all resulting products are biodegradable compared with chemically synthesized products. (LLM, conf=0.86)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measured
Fermented red ginseng with Lactobacillus brevis and Saccharomyces cerevisiae has anti-wrinkle, skincare, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergenic properties.
“Red ginseng Lactobacillus brevis, Saccharomyces cerevisiae Anti-wrinkle, skincare, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergenic [27,151]”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [27]
Section 8.2.1 (Ginseng; page unavailable) reports skincare-related activity and reduced irritation and sensitizing potential for red ginseng fermented with L. brevis. It attributes anti-wrinkle activity to black ginseng fermented with S. cerevisiae, not red ginseng, and does not report an anti-inflammatory effect for either preparation. (LLM, conf=0.88)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measured
During fermentation, bacteria and yeast metabolites such as malic, fumaric, and citric acids are formed; these are Krebs cycle intermediates and act as rapid energy substrates for skin-cell mitochondria.
“During the fermentation process, metabolites of bacteria and yeast are formed, such as malic, fumaric, and citric acids, which are intermediates in the Krebs cycle and act as rapid energy substrates for skin-cell mitochondria [27].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [27]
Microbial processing of food waste requires renewable feedstock such as biomass and mild temperature and pressure conditions, giving a lower environmental footprint than conventional chemical synthesis.
“It needs renewable feedstock, such as biomass, and requires mild conditions of temperature and pressure to carry out the process, giving a lower environmental footprint than conventional chemical synthesis [27].”
From Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review (2024) · cites this paper as [27]

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Authors: Pérez-Rivero, C., & López-Gómez, J. P.
Affiliations: National Center for Biotechnological Innovations of Costa Rica (CENIBiot), National Center of High Technology (CeNAT), San Jose 1174-1200, Costa Rica
ORCID: López-Gómez, José Pablo
Venue: Fermentation
Publisher: MDPI AG
Published: 2023-05-12
Volume: 9
Issue: 5
Pages: 463
ISSN: 2311-5637 (ISSN-L)
DOI: 10.3390/fermentation9050463
OpenAlex: W4376273313
Cited by: 73
References: 197
Citations by year: 2026: 26 · 2025: 26 · 2024: 18 · 2023: 3
FWCI: 1.93
Type: journal article
Language: en
Open access: gold
doi.org
Licence: cc-by
creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ (vor)
Locations: Fermentation (publishedVersion, cc-by)
DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
Topics: Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Molecular Biology › Microbial Metabolic Engineering and Bioproduction
Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Biotechnology › Biochemical and biochemical processes
Physical Sciences › Environmental Science › Pollution › Microbial bioremediation and biosurfactants
Keywords: cosmetics, biotechnology, sustainable cosmetics, surfactants, emulsifiers, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, skin care, low-cost substrates, commercialization, customer communication

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Unlocking the Potential of Fermentation in Cosmetics: A Review

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