How to Fight Acute Sun Damage? Current Skin Care Strategies
Open accessAbstract
Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.
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Ectoine helps to maintain moisture balance and protect the skin barrier, as well as protect DNA from UV damage.
“Ectoine is a natural compound derived from several species of bacteria which helps to maintain moisture balance and protect the skin barrier, as well as protect DNA from UV damage [32].”
From A 28-Day Pilot Study of the Effects on Facial Skin Hydration, Elasticity, and Texture of a Centella asiatica Extracellular Vesicle-Based Skin Care Formulation (2025) · cites this paper as [32]
Section 3.3.2.2 describes ectoine as bacteria- and algae-derived, reports improved skin hydration and reduced epidermal dehydration, and cites in vitro protection of DNA from UVA damage. It does not specifically establish protection of the skin barrier, so that part of the sentence goes beyond what the paper says. (LLM, conf=0.82)
Experimental — accuracy not yet measuredAllantoin and sodium hyaluronate are common moisturizing agents used in cosmetics to improve skin hydration and elasticity, as well as reduce skin irritation due to dryness and inflammation.
“Allantoin and sodium hyaluronate (a salt of hyaluronic acid) are common moisturizing agents used in cosmetics to improve skin hydration and elasticity, as well as reduce skin irritation due to dryness and inflammation [32].”
From A 28-Day Pilot Study of the Effects on Facial Skin Hydration, Elasticity, and Texture of a Centella asiatica Extracellular Vesicle-Based Skin Care Formulation (2025) · cites this paper as [32]
Section 3.3.1.6 describes allantoin as moisturizing and anti-inflammatory and says it is used to decrease skin irritation. Section 3.3.3.3 identifies sodium hyaluronate as a cosmetic ingredient and reports improved hydration with a formulation containing it. The cited passages do not establish improved skin elasticity or reduced irritation from sodium hyaluronate, and they do not specifically attribute irritation to dryness. (LLM, conf=0.87)
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- Authors
- Jesus, A., Sousa, E., Cidade, H., Cruz, M. T., & Almeida, I. F.
- Affiliations
- Universidade do Porto (PT)
- Centro de Neurociências e Biologia Celular (PT)
- Corresponding author
- Jesus, Ana
- Cidade, Honorina
- Cruz, Maria T.
- Almeida, Isabel F.
- Venue
- Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences
- Published
- 2024-09-28
- Volume
- 23
- Issue
- 10
- Pages
- 1915-1930
- ISSN
- 1474-905X (ISSN-L)
- 1474-9092
- OpenAlex
- W4402941987
- Cited by
- 3
- References
- 117
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2025: 1
- FWCI
- 1.23
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- hybrid
- doi.org
- Locations
- Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Funders
- Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (the project UIDP/04378/2020, UIDB/04378/2020 of the Research Unit on Applied Molecular Biosciences, UCIBIO, the project LA/P/0140/2020 of the Associate Laboratory Institute for Health, Bioeconomy, i4HB, projects UIDP/04539/2020, UIDP/04423/2020 (Group of Marine Natural Products, Medicinal Chemistry—CIIMAR), as well as a structured program of R&D&I ATLANTIDA (NORTE-01-0145-FEDER-000040), supported by NORTE2020, through ERDF., This work was also financed by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF), through the Centro 2020 Regional Operational Programme under project CENTRO-01-0145-FEDER-000012 (HealthyAging2020)., Ana Jesus acknowledges her Ph.D. grant with reference UI/BD/151319/2021 with DOI: 10.54499/UI/BD/151319/2021 totally financed by FCT.)
- Universidade do Porto
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Dermatologic Treatments and Research
- Keywords
- photodamage, skin care, sunburn, natural ingredients, amino acids and peptides, cosmetic formulation, active ingredients, in vitro screening, in vivo efficacy
- MeSH terms
- Humans, Portugal, Skin, Sunburn, Sunlight, Sunscreening Agents, Skin Care
About these checks
Registry, retraction, Cites and statistics results are computed, not judged, with one exception: a printed reference that no index lists is read once by a model before it counts as a citation error. Claims are extracted by a model and kept only when their quote appears verbatim in the text; each cited source is then checked, with a model’s help, for whether it says what the claim relies on. Those verdicts can be wrong — read the claim’s quote and the cited source before relying on one.
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