Resveratrol, 4′ Acetoxy Resveratrol, R-equol, Racemic Equol or S-equol as Cosmeceuticals to Improve Dermal Health
Open accessAbstract
Phytochemicals are botanical compounds used in dermatology applications as cosmeceuticals to improve skin health. Resveratrol and equol are two of the best-known polyphenolic or phytoestrogens having similar chemical structures and some overlapping biological functions to 17β-estradiol. Human skin gene expression was reviewed for 28 different biomarkers when resveratrol, 4′ acetoxy resveratrol (4AR), R-equol, racemic equol or S-equol were tested. Sirtuin 1 activator (SIRT 1) was stimulated by resveratrol and 4AR only. Resveratrol, R-equol and racemic equol were effective on the aging biomarkers proliferating cell nuclear factor (PCNA), nerve growth factor (NGF), 5α-reductase and the calcium binding proteins S100 A8 and A9. Racemic equol and 4AR displayed among the highest levels for the collagens, elastin and tissue inhibitor of the matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP 1). S-equol displayed the lowest level of effectiveness compared to the other compounds. The 4AR analog was more effective compared to resveratrol by 1.6-fold. R-equol and racemic equol were almost equal in potency displaying greater inhibition vs. resveratrol or its 4′ analog for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), but among the inflammatory biomarkers, resveratrol, 4AR, R-equol and racemic equol displayed high inhibition. Thus, these cosmeceuticals display promise to improve dermal health; however, further study is warranted to understand how phytochemicals protect/enhance the skin.
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Equol is classified as a polyphenolic compound.
“Traditionally, equol is classified as a polyphenolic compound.”
S-equol binds ERβ approximately 1/5 as well as 17β-estradiol, while having low affinity for ERα.
“Remarkably, S-equol binds ERβ approximately 1/5, as well as 17β-estradiol, while having low affinity for ERα [2,78,80].”
Equol is a very strong antioxidant.
“It also has chemical or biological properties, such as being a very strong antioxidant”
S-equol is classified as a selective estrogen receptor modulator (SERM) with high affinity for ERβ.
“Thus, S-equol is classified as a selective estrogen receptor modulator (SERM) with high affinity for ERβ.”
Equol (presumably S-equol) is present naturally in some plants, such as beans, cabbage, and lettuces, having a botanical origin.
“Thus, equol (presumably S-equol) is present naturally in some plants, such as beans, cabbage, and lettuces, having a botanical origin [2,78,79]”
S-equol is an intestinal metabolite in animals and humans when precursor compounds like daidzein are consumed, but most humans do not generate S-equol concentrations at high levels.
“S-equol is an intestinal metabolite in animals and humans, when precursor compounds (like daidzein) are consumed but, in general, most humans do not generate S-equol concentrations at high levels [2,78,79].”
S-equol is a metabolite of daidzein and is found in plant products such as beans, cabbage, lettuces, tofu, and other food and animal products like eggs and cow's milk.
“S-equol, which is a metabolite of daidzein (an isoflavone found in plant and food products), has been found in plant products such as beans, cabbage, lettuces, tofu, and other food and animal products, like eggs and cow's milk, as reviewed elsewhere [2,78]”
R-equol has weak affinity for either ER and weak estrogenic properties at best.
“Conversely, R-equol has weak affinity for either ER and, in general, has weak estrogenic properties, at best [2,78].”
More than 100,000 women have used topically-applied equol with great success.
“more than 100,000 women have used topically-applied equol with great success [2,78,84,85].”
Topical applications of equol have demonstrated improved human dermal parameters in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies.
“several reports using topical applications of equol have demonstrated improved human dermal parameters”
Equol appears to be an exceptional choice for potential incorporation into human skin applications, especially for women, due to its multiple positive actions to improve dermal health.
“it appears to be an exceptional choice for potential incorporation into human skin applications, especially for women, due to its multiple positive actions to improve dermal health [2,78,108].”
Equol appears to address the need as a new active ingredient in personal care products to protect against pollution assaults by increasing antioxidant defense, while inhibiting oxidative stress and inflammation.
“Moreover, equol appears to address the need as a new active ingredient in personal care products to protect against pollution assaults by increasing antioxidant defense, while inhibiting oxidative stress and inflammation [2,78].”
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Self-citation
- Authors
- Lephart, E. D.
- Affiliations
- Brigham Young University (US)
- Corresponding author
- Lephart, Edwin D.
- ORCID
- Lephart, Edwin D.
- Venue
- International Journal of Molecular Sciences
- Publisher
- MDPI AG
- Published
- 2017-06-03
- Volume
- 18
- Issue
- 6
- Pages
- 1193
- ISSN
- 1422-0067 (ISSN-L)
- PMC
- PMC5486016
- OpenAlex
- W2620791544
- Cited by
- 50
- References
- 119
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2025: 3 · 2024: 3 · 2023: 3 · 2022: 12 · 2021: 8 · 2020: 3 · 2019: 6 · 2018: 8 · 2017: 2
- FWCI
- 0.93
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Licence
- Locations
- International Journal of Molecular Sciences (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
- Funders
- Brigham Young University (19-2215)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Geriatrics and Gerontology › Sirtuins and Resveratrol in Medicine
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Biochemistry › Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
- Keywords
- resveratrol, equol, S-equol, cosmeceuticals, skin aging, SIRT1, collagen, elastin, matrix metalloproteinase inhibition, TIMP-1, S100A8/A9, PCNA, nerve growth factor, 5α-reductase, skin inflammation, phytoestrogens
- MeSH terms
- Cosmeceuticals, Resveratrol, Estradiol, Gene Expression Regulation, Humans, Protein Binding, Receptors, Estrogen, Skin Physiological Phenomena, Stilbenes, Molecular Structure, Phytoestrogens, Polyphenols, Equol, Phytochemicals
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