Skin aging and oxidative stress: Equol’s anti-aging effects via biochemical and molecular mechanisms
Abstract
Oxygen in biology is essential for life. It comes at a cost during normal cellular function, where reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated by oxidative metabolism. Human skin exposed to solar ultra-violet radiation (UVR) dramatically increases ROS production/oxidative stress. It is important to understand the characteristics of human skin and how chronological (intrinsic) aging and photo-aging (extrinsic aging) occur via the impact of ROS production by cascade signaling pathways. The goal is to oppose or neutralize ROS insults to maintain good dermal health. Botanicals, as active ingredients, represent one of the largest categories used in dermatology and cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging. An emerging botanical is equol, a polyphenolic/isoflavonoid molecule found in plants and food products and via gastrointestinal metabolism from precursor compounds. Introductory sections cover oxygen, free radicals (ROS), oxidative stress, antioxidants, human skin aging, cellular/molecular ROS events in skin, steroid enzymes/receptors/hormonal actions and genetic factors in aging skin. The main focus of this review covers the characteristics of equol (phytoestrogenic, antioxidant and enhancement of extracellular matrix properties) to reduce skin aging along with its anti-aging skin influences via reducing oxidative stress cascade events by a variety of biochemical/molecular actions and mechanisms to enhance human dermal health.
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Up to 80-90% of skin aging is due to environmental and xenobiotic agents (extrinsic aging).
“However, it has been reported that up to 80–90% of skin aging is due to environmental and xenobiotic agents (extrinsic aging) [26, 28].”
From Antioxidants from Plants Protect against Skin Photoaging (2018) · cites this paper as [26]
Pollution is associated with generation of ROS, which damage DNA, lipids, proteins, mitochondrial function, and increases inflammation.
“Pollution is associated with the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage DNA, lipids, proteins, mitochondrial function, and increases inflammation [2].”
Vitamins A, C, and E from diet can act as antioxidants and are found in high concentrations in the epidermis and dermis.
“Other molecules derived from our diet, such as vitamins A, C, and E, can also act as antioxidants which are found in high concentrations in the epidermis and dermis [2,[15][16][17].”
Oxidative stress is a major source of skin aging.
“Additionally, it is well known that oxidative stress is a major source of skin aging, and the mechanisms by which it occurs have been reviewed [2,13,14].”
Skin aging can be classified by intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (photoaging) mechanisms.
“Skin aging can be classified by intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (photoaging) mechanisms [1,2].”
Skin has a greater antioxidant defense capacity compared to internal organs due to protective structural and biological functioning of dermal layers.
“Finally, and most importantly, the antioxidant defense capacity of the skin is greater compared to internal organs due to the protective structural and biological functioning of the dermal layers [1,2].”
Equol appears to potentially protect against pollution assaults via a variety of mechanisms to increase antioxidant defense, while also decreasing oxidative stress and inflammation.
“Equol, a novel botanical active ingredient compound appears to potentially protect against pollution assaults via a variety of mechanisms to increase antioxidant defense, while also decreasing oxidative stress and inflammation [2].”
Environmental assaults (including pollutants, wind, cold, UV) are associated with oxidative stress and intracellular generation of ROS, which damage DNA, lipids, proteins, and mitochondrial function.
“All of these environmental assaults are associated with oxidative stress and the intracellular generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage DNA, lipids, proteins and mitochondrial function.”
UVB penetrates into epidermal cells, can damage DNA and activate a cascade leading to generation of ROS and increased photo-aging.
“UVB (280-320 nm), while representing only 2-5% of the sun's emissions, penetrates into epidermal cells, can damage DNA and activate a cascade of events leading to the generation of ROS and increased photo-aging [2,13,23,24].”
Most UV-induced oxidative stress is generated by UVA, which is more cytotoxic to human skin compared to UVB; UVB are mostly mutagenic; both stimulate generation of ROS.
“Thus, most UV-induced oxidative stress is generated by UVA, which is more cytotoxic to human skin compared to UVB; whereas UVB are mostly mutagenic, both are known to stimulate the generation of ROS, [2,13,14,25]”
Dietary intake of food sources containing antioxidants decreases ROS.
“In this regard, the dietary intake of food sources containing antioxidants are known to decrease ROS [2,7,9,22].”
UVA penetrates deeper into dermis to degrade collagen and elastin fibers via oxidative stress mechanisms that activate MMPs and damage mitochondrial structure/function, leading to extrinsic skin photoaging.
“UVA (320-400 nm) at a higher wavelength range represents 95-98% of the total UV radiation reaching the Earth's surface can damage the epidermis and penetrates deeper into the dermis to degrade collagen and elastin fibers via oxidative stress mechanisms that in turn activate matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and damage mitochondrial structure/function that leads to extrinsic skin photoaging [2,13,14”
Extrinsic aging comes from external sources that increase oxidative stress, including sunlight (especially UVR), cold weather, and air/water pollution.
“Extrinsic aging comes from external sources that increase oxidative stress, which include sunlight, especially ultraviolet radiation (UVR), temperature conditions, like cold weather, and air/water pollution.”
Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to generation of ROS-mediated oxidative stress that can impair and damage skin structure and function.
“Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to the generation of ROS-mediated oxidative stress that can impair and damage skin structure and function [2,22].”
Up to 80-90% of skin aging is due to deleterious effects of sunlight or photoaging.
“It is thought that up to 80-90% of skin aging is due to the deleterious effects of sunlight or photoaging [2,13].”
Intrinsic aging includes ROS production via normal oxidative metabolism within cells that is inevitable, but contributes modestly to skin aging compared to extrinsic aging.
“For example, in intrinsic aging, there is ROS production via normal oxidative metabolism within cells that is inevitable, but contributes in a modest way to skin aging compared to extrinsic aging [2,18,19].”
Equol is classified as a polyphenolic compound.
“Traditionally, equol is classified as a polyphenolic compound.”
Both equol and resveratrol are strong antioxidants when topically applied.
“Notably, both equol and resveratrol are known to be strong antioxidants when topically applied”
Dietary sources commonly known for antioxidant properties include vitamin A, C, and E along with carotenoids, lipoic acid, and phenolic compounds found in plant products like fruits and vegetables.
“Dietary sources that are commonly known for their antioxidant properties include vitamin A, C, and E along with other antioxidants in carotenoids, lipoic acid, and phenolic compounds found in abundance in many plant products like fruits and vegetables [2,17,66].”
S-equol is classified as a selective estrogen receptor modulator (SERM) with high affinity for ERβ.
“Thus, S-equol is classified as a selective estrogen receptor modulator (SERM) with high affinity for ERβ.”
S-equol binds ERβ approximately 1/5 as well as 17β-estradiol, while having low affinity for ERα.
“Remarkably, S-equol binds ERβ approximately 1/5, as well as 17β-estradiol, while having low affinity for ERα [2,78,80].”
Equol (presumably S-equol) is present naturally in some plants, such as beans, cabbage, and lettuces, having a botanical origin.
“Thus, equol (presumably S-equol) is present naturally in some plants, such as beans, cabbage, and lettuces, having a botanical origin [2,78,79]”
Equol is a very strong antioxidant.
“It also has chemical or biological properties, such as being a very strong antioxidant”
Other plant-derived compounds, such as equol, are known to stimulate Nrf2 and increase endogenous detoxifying enzymes and antioxidant production.
“In addition to dietary intake of vitamins and supplementation of antioxidant ingredients, other plant-derived compounds, such as equol, are known to stimulate Nfr2 and increase endogenous detoxifying enzymes and antioxidant production [2,73].”
S-equol is an intestinal metabolite in animals and humans when precursor compounds like daidzein are consumed, but most humans do not generate S-equol concentrations at high levels.
“S-equol is an intestinal metabolite in animals and humans, when precursor compounds (like daidzein) are consumed but, in general, most humans do not generate S-equol concentrations at high levels [2,78,79].”
Equol may increase Nrf2 levels and/or bind to estrogen-responsive elements (EREs) in the promoter region of the Nrf2 gene and/or increase gene expression of other antioxidant genes.
“Specifically, equol may increase Nrf2 levels and/or bind to the estrogen-responsive elements (EREs) in the promoter region the Nrf2 gene and/or increase gene expression of other antioxidant genes [2,97].”
More than 100,000 women have used topically-applied equol with great success.
“more than 100,000 women have used topically-applied equol with great success [2,78,84,85].”
This sustained release of topically-applied equol acts upon fibroblasts and promotes continued positive effects on skin health and addresses oxidative stress.
“This sustained release of topically-applied equol acts upon fibroblasts and promotes continued positive effects on skin health and addresses the issues of oxidative stress [2,85].”
R-equol has weak affinity for either ER and weak estrogenic properties at best.
“Conversely, R-equol has weak affinity for either ER and, in general, has weak estrogenic properties, at best [2,78].”
S-equol is a metabolite of daidzein and is found in plant products such as beans, cabbage, lettuces, tofu, and other food and animal products like eggs and cow's milk.
“S-equol, which is a metabolite of daidzein (an isoflavone found in plant and food products), has been found in plant products such as beans, cabbage, lettuces, tofu, and other food and animal products, like eggs and cow's milk, as reviewed elsewhere [2,78]”
Topical applications of equol have demonstrated improved human dermal parameters in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies.
“several reports using topical applications of equol have demonstrated improved human dermal parameters”
Equol significantly increases gene and protein expression of collagen and elastin by approximately 2-fold.
“From gene array and human fibroblast cell culture experiments equol has been shown to significantly increase the gene and protein expression of collagen and elastin by approximately 2-fold”
ROS increases MMP production to break down collagen fibers.
“ROS increases MMP production (to break down collagen fibers)”
Nrf2 activation guards against dermal damage from sunlight (ionizing radiation) and oxidative stress via ROS.
“where Nrf2 activation guards against dermal damage, from sunlight (ionizing radiation) and oxidative stress via ROS [2,69-73,76,99].”
Equol appears to address the need as a new active ingredient in personal care products to protect against pollution assaults by increasing antioxidant defense, while inhibiting oxidative stress and inflammation.
“Moreover, equol appears to address the need as a new active ingredient in personal care products to protect against pollution assaults by increasing antioxidant defense, while inhibiting oxidative stress and inflammation [2,78].”
Photoaging or extrinsic aging due to UV light and environmental pollutants trigger oxidative stress and formation of ROS that damages DNA, mitochondrial function, protein, lipids, and results in declination of antioxidant levels.
“photoaging or extrinsic aging due to exposure to UV light along with assaults from environmental pollutants (such as particles, wind or cold) trigger oxidative stress and the formation of ROS that damages DNA, mitochondrial function, protein, lipids, and results in the declination of antioxidant levels [2,13,14].”
Equol increases tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP1) by 5.4-fold.
“along with increasing tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP 1) by 5.4-fold”
The formation of ROS is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin aging.
“The formation of ROS is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin aging (see Figure 6) [2,13,14].”
ROS activates AP-1 and suppresses TGF beta to decrease pro-collagen synthesis.
“ROS activates AP-1 and suppresses TGF beta to decrease pro-collagen synthesis”
Equol can increase levels of the master gene Nrf2, which regulates endogenous expression of detoxifying proteins and many other antioxidant enzymes involved in wound repair and protection against skin cancer.
“equol itself is a very strong antioxidant, and, in turn, it can increase the levels of the master gene, Nrf2, which regulates the endogenous expression of detoxifying proteins and many other antioxidant enzymes that are involved in wound repair, protection against skin cancer”
ROS activates NF-KB to stimulate the inflammatory response that feeds back in a positive manner to generate more ROS.
“also activates NF-KB to stimulate the inflammatory response that feeds back in a positive manner to generate more ROS”
Equol appears to be an exceptional choice for potential incorporation into human skin applications, especially for women, due to its multiple positive actions to improve dermal health.
“it appears to be an exceptional choice for potential incorporation into human skin applications, especially for women, due to its multiple positive actions to improve dermal health [2,78,108].”
Major factors of extrinsic skin aging include photoaging and environmental pollutants.
“The major factors of extrinsic skin aging include: photoaging and environmental pollutants that, in turn, increase oxidative stress (ROS).”
AP-1 induces MMPs in human skin.
“Additionally, along with ROS's known direct stimulation of MMPs, AP-1 is also known to induce MMPs in human skin that, in turn, activates collagen degradation [2,103].”
Photoaging and environmental pollutants increase oxidative stress (ROS).
“The major factors of extrinsic skin aging include: photoaging and environmental pollutants that, in turn, increase oxidative stress (ROS).”
The cascade of events associated with ROS production results in activation of the inflammatory response.
“The cascade of events associated with ROS production are shown which results in decreased skin antioxidant levels, the degradation of collage, and the activation of the inflammatory response.”
ROS directly stimulates MMPs.
“Additionally, along with ROS's known direct stimulation of MMPs, AP-1 is also known to induce MMPs in human skin that, in turn, activates collagen degradation [2,103].”
The cascade of events associated with ROS production results in decreased skin antioxidant levels.
“The cascade of events associated with ROS production are shown which results in decreased skin antioxidant levels, the degradation of collage, and the activation of the inflammatory response.”
The cascade of events associated with ROS production results in degradation of collagen.
“The cascade of events associated with ROS production are shown which results in decreased skin antioxidant levels, the degradation of collage, and the activation of the inflammatory response.”
AP-1-induced MMPs activate collagen degradation.
“Additionally, along with ROS's known direct stimulation of MMPs, AP-1 is also known to induce MMPs in human skin that, in turn, activates collagen degradation [2,103].”
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- Authors
- Lephart, E. D.
- Affiliations
- Brigham Young University (US)
- Corresponding author
- Lephart, Edwin D.
- ORCID
- Lephart, Edwin D.
- Venue
- Ageing Research Reviews
- Publisher
- Elsevier BV
- Published
- 2016-11
- Volume
- 31
- Pages
- 36-54
- ISSN
- 1568-1637 (ISSN-L)
- OpenAlex
- W2502726215
- Cited by
- 325
- References
- 188
- Citations by year
- 2026: 16 · 2025: 36 · 2024: 40 · 2023: 46 · 2022: 52 · 2021: 34 · 2020: 32 · 2019: 27 · 2018: 27 · 2017: 14 · 2016: 1
- FWCI
- 3.30
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- closed
- Locations
- Ageing Research Reviews (publishedVersion)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- Funders
- LS/TTO (19-2215)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Biochemistry › Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Pathology and Forensic Medicine › Phytoestrogen effects and research
- Keywords
- equol, skin aging, oxidative stress, reactive oxygen species, photoaging, chronological aging, isoflavonoids, phytoestrogens, antioxidants, extracellular matrix, botanicals, cosmeceuticals, steroid hormone receptors, free radicals
- MeSH terms
- Antioxidants, Humans, Oxygen, Skin, Signal Transduction, Skin Aging, Reactive Oxygen Species, Oxidative Stress, Phytoestrogens, Equol
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