Natural Substances for Prevention of Skin Photoaging: Screening Systems in the Development of Sunscreen and Rejuvenation Cosmetics
Open accessAbstract
Solar broadband UV irradiation is commonly regarded as a major causative reason for cutaneous photoaging. The pro-aging molecular pathways and cellular targets affected by UVA+UVB light in human skin have been extensively investigated. Notwithstanding growing knowledge in mechanisms of photoaging, research and development of clinically efficient, nontoxic, and sustainable topical preparations providing full physical, chemical, and biological photoprotection still remain a great challenge for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. In this study, we are proposing a panel of the in vitro methods for preselection of natural photoprotective substances with high photostability and low phototoxicity able of absorbing a broadband UVA+UVB irradiation (physical sunscreen), reducing UV-related overproduction of free radicals and loss of endogenous antioxidants (chemical protection), and attenuating UV-induced cytotoxicity and immune and metabolic responses (biological protection) in primary human epidermal keratinocytes and immortalized human keratinocyte cultures. Our data showed that secondary metabolites biosynthesized in plant cells in response to UV irradiation, such as phenylpropanoids and their glycosylated metabolites, aglycons and glycosylated flavonoids, and leontopodic acids, hold the best promise for complete natural topical prevention of photoaging and rejuvenation of photoaged skin. Meristem plant cell cultures elicited by solar simulating UV could be the most environmentally sustainable biotechnological source of polyphenols with combined photoprotective and antiaging properties.
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Plant secondary metabolites can protect the skin from photoaging.
“In this context, plants produce many secondary metabolites to protect themselves from UV radiations and these compounds can also protect the skin from photoaging.”
From Antioxidants from Plants Protect against Skin Photoaging (2018) · cites this paper as [89]
Plants produce many secondary metabolites to protect themselves from UV radiations.
“In this context, plants produce many secondary metabolites to protect themselves from UV radiations and these compounds can also protect the skin from photoaging.”
From Antioxidants from Plants Protect against Skin Photoaging (2018) · cites this paper as [89]
Active compounds from plants can protect the skin by absorbing UV radiations, inhibiting free radical reactions induced by UV in cells, and modulating endogenous antioxidant and inflammatory systems.
“These active compounds can protect the skin by (i) absorbing UV radiations, (ii) inhibiting free radical reactions induced by UV in cells, and (iii) modulating endogenous antioxidant and inflammatory systems [4, 89].”
From Antioxidants from Plants Protect against Skin Photoaging (2018) · cites this paper as [89]
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- Authors
- Kostyuk, V., Potapovich, A., Albuhaydar, A. R., Mayer, W., De Luca, C., & Korkina, L.
- Affiliations
- Belarusian State University (BY)
- MEDENA AG, Affoltern-am-Albis (ZH), Switzerland.
- Russian Academy of Sciences (RU)
- Corresponding author
- Korkina, Liudmila
- Venue
- Rejuvenation Research
- Publisher
- SAGE Publications
- Published
- 2018-04
- Volume
- 21
- Issue
- 2
- Pages
- 91-101
- ISSN
- 1094-5458 (ISSN-L)
- 1549-1684
- 1557-8577
- PMC
- PMC5910042
- OpenAlex
- W2725222353
- Cited by
- 85
- References
- 34
- Citations by year
- 2026: 4 · 2025: 5 · 2024: 7 · 2023: 11 · 2022: 18 · 2021: 17 · 2020: 11 · 2019: 4 · 2018: 8
- FWCI
- 7.14
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- bronze
- doi.org
- Locations
- Rejuvenation Research (publishedVersion)
- Europe PMC (PubMed Central) (publishedVersion, other-oa)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by-nc)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- BSU Digital Library (Belarusian State University) (submittedVersion, cc-by)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Biochemistry › Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
- Life Sciences › Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology › Cell Biology › melanin and skin pigmentation
- Keywords
- photoaging, photostability, phototoxicity, antioxidants, UV-induced cytotoxicity, human keratinocytes, phenylpropanoids, flavonoids, plant secondary metabolites, polyphenols
- MeSH terms
- Biological Products, Cells, Cultured, Cosmetics, Humans, Plant Extracts, Rejuvenation, Sunscreening Agents, Ultraviolet Rays, Skin Aging, Keratinocytes, Cell Proliferation, Polyphenols
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