Effects of Plant Meristem-Cell-Based Cosmetics on Menopausal Skin: Clinical Data and Mechanisms
Open accessAbstract
A randomised open clinical/laboratory study was performed to evaluate the safety and cosmetic efficacy of facial cosmetics for females during the menopausal period. The cosmetics contain active ingredients of meristem cells derived from the medicinal plants Leontopodium alpinum, Buddeleja davidii, Centella asiatica, and Echinacea angustifolia. Recently, the major bioactive molecules of these medicinal plants (leontopodic acid, verbascoside, asiaticoside, and echinacoside, respectively) have been thoroughly evaluated in vitro for molecular pathways and cellular mechanisms and their preventive/curative effects on human skin cells exposed to factors promoting premature skin ageing and cellular senescence. Nevertheless, clinical data on their safety/efficacy to ageing human skin are scarce. This clinical study enrolled 104 Caucasian females in pre-menopause, menopause, or post-menopause periods. They applied cosmetic serums daily for 1 month. Questionnaires and instrumental and biochemical methods were used to assess dermatological/ophthalmological safety and cosmetic efficacy through changes of the skin physiology markers characteristic of ageing/menopause (elasticity, barrier functions, moisture, sebum, ultrasonic properties, and collagen content and structure). Quantitative microbiological tests were carried out for skin microbiota fluctuations. Data showed that the cosmetics were safe, and they shifted the skin physiology parameters to a younger biological age, enhanced collagen synthesis, inhibited lipid peroxidation, and favoured normal microbiota.
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An open-label RCT enrolling 104 peri- and postmenopausal women found that daily application of an asiaticoside-based serum significantly enhanced skin elasticity (+22%), hydration (+18%), and collagen synthesis, in addition to normalizing skin microbiome composition.
“An open-label RCT enrolling 104 peri- and postmenopausal women found that daily application of an asiaticoside-based serum significantly enhanced skin elasticity (+22%), hydration (+18%), and collagen synthesis, in addition to normalizing skin microbiome composition (Korkina et al. 2024).”
From Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and advanced delivery systems (2025) · cites this paper as Korkina et al. 2024
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Experimental — accuracy not yet measuredIn HRIPT protocols involving 100 volunteers over 21 days, formulations containing C. asiatica extracts did not induce significant irritation or sensitization in the majority of participants.
“In Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) protocols involving 100 volunteers over 21 days, formulations containing C. asiatica extracts did not induce significant irritation or sensitization in the majority of participants (Korkina et al. 2024).”
From Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and advanced delivery systems (2025) · cites this paper as Korkina et al. 2024
Section 2.2 identifies a tested serum containing Centella asiatica extract, and Section 3.1 reports no irritation or other adverse reactions among 102 participants. The paper describes 28 days of regular product use assessed by questionnaires, not a 21-day HRIPT involving 100 volunteers; it does not report an HRIPT sensitization result. (LLM, conf=0.90)
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- Authors
- Korkina, L., Kharaeva, Z., Shokarova, A., Barokova, E., Mayer, W., Trakhtman, I., Dal Toso, R., & De Luca, C.
- Affiliations
- Centre for Innovative Biotechnological Investigations Nanolab (CIBI-NANOLAB), 119991 Moscow, Russia
- Immunology, Microbiology and Virology Department, Kabardino-Balkar State Medical University, 360040 Nal’chik, Russia
- R&D Department, Medena AG, 8910 Affoltern-am-Albis, Switzerland
- R&D Department, Swiss Dekotra GmbH, 8001 Zurich, Switzerland
- Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnologies, University of Ferrara, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
- Corresponding author
- Korkina, Liudmila
- Venue
- Biomolecules
- Publisher
- MDPI AG
- Published
- 2024-09-19
- Volume
- 14
- Issue
- 9
- Pages
- 1176
- ISSN
- 2218-273X (ISSN-L)
- PMC
- PMC11429794
- OpenAlex
- W4402621729
- Cited by
- 3
- References
- 62
- Citations by year
- 2026: 2 · 2025: 1
- FWCI
- 1.23
- Type
- journal article
- Language
- en
- Open access
- gold
- doi.org
- Licence
- Locations
- Biomolecules (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed Central (publishedVersion, cc-by)
- PubMed (publishedVersion)
- DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals) (submittedVersion, cc-by-sa)
- Funders
- Swiss Image International AG (10/11-2023)
- Swiss Image International AG company (10/11-2023)
- Topics
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Dermatology › Skin Protection and Aging
- Health Sciences › Medicine › Endocrinology, Diabetes and Metabolism › Menopause: Health Impacts and Treatments
- Life Sciences › Agricultural and Biological Sciences › Plant Science › Medicinal Plant Research
- Keywords
- Leontopodium alpinum, Centella asiatica, Echinacea angustifolia, verbascoside, asiaticoside, echinacoside, skin aging, cellular senescence, collagen synthesis, skin barrier function, skin microbiome, lipid peroxidation, cosmetic safety, postmenopausal women
- MeSH terms
- Adult, Aged, Cosmetics, Female, Humans, Menopause, Middle Aged, Plant Extracts, Plants, Medicinal, Skin, Skin Aging, Meristem
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